wadd3456

iTrader: (1)

Im selling the ride to a guy outta state this week and just realized the radio signal really sucks. Its been an issue for a very long time now but I have to get it fixed.

Im not certain where the issue is. There is an antenna wire running to the dash that splits off into another smaller wire into the harness into the back of the radio. If I do a continuity check, there is continuity between the antenna and this small wire. Weird......just wondering if that is normal.

Also, should this small wire have any voltage showing up when its on or off? I need some sort of baseline because I havent a clue whats wrong. I can sometimes get the wires kinked just so that it starts getting a signal again. Then it just stops. WTF!



Here is a picture of what wire Im talking about. How can I get the signal boosted? Any idea how to rewire it from scratch? HELP

wadd3456

iTrader: (1)

Nobody? Ak!

Landbarger

iTrader: (2)

Same problem, no answer...good luck, here's a bump to see if you can get an answer.

motown

Do you have an aftermarket or factory radio? If it's aftermarket, the antenna uses an antenna signal booster that necesitates the power antenna wire from your aftermarket stereo be connected. Otherwise, it won't get good signal. If this is the factory, I'd check that the antenna booster has power signal coming in (it's in the drivers rear on the inside of the body panel from the antenna, says 'Clarion' on it). Hope that helps!

wadd3456

iTrader: (1)

Motown, we need to chat if you get a chance tonight, tomorrow, whenever possible.

Its a factory radio.....I had the same issue on my aftermarket Clarion Touchscreen as well. I know where all the wires are and have a pretty good idea what they do. What I dont know is what voltage they should show, or anything of that nature. Ive f-ed with them for a total of about 10hrs and need something to baseline off of.

How do I check the signal coming in. Dont know what to look for.

Also, where is that signal (or do you mean power) coming from? If its shorted out I could run another wire. But I dont know if its 6v, 9v, 12v?? I ran 12v to the booster wire(as shown in the link in the first post) and the damn thing caught fire while I was pushing the car hard one day. Granted the signal was fantastic untill that point . That is why I am very leary about just running 12v to it.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

Inside the driver's side rear quarter panel - attached just below the factory antenna you'll find a small RF amplifier. The cable that runs to it has two parts: one is a coax cable andthe other is the power wire. You'll need a pin to get into it. When the radio is on you should see +12VDC on the power wire.

wadd3456

iTrader: (1)

Yup I understand that. I was staring at the wires yesterday. Where the wires run across the floor of the trunk I hooked up a multimeter to check continuity (not expecting that there would be BETWEEN the two wires) Ill be damned it showed continuity!! Is it shorted out?!? Am I even checking the right wire? One for sure is the coax. I just havent ripped in deep enough to see the actual booster unit. I was just messing with the two wires on the floor.

Also, like I said before. In the past I ran a dedicated 12v switchable wire to that booster. Wire melted after a few weeks.

So there should be 12v coming OUT of the headunit that goes into that booster wire behind the dash which runs to the back of the car? Im so confused.

Any chance at a diagram haha.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

Not much of a circuit. A wire runs from the audio unit to the antenna amplifer - half of it is +12VDC on pin one, the other half is the coax on pin 2. The wire is black. Looks like a straight run from the headend back. Ground is supplied by the antenna amp's mounting screw. The +12VDC is controlled by the ignition switch and runs though a 10 amp fuse (#6) in the fuse box J/B which is the one to the left of the driver's feet.

The fuse is likely shared with a few other circuits.

wadd3456

iTrader: (1)

Okey Dokey, I will once again run a dedicated wire to the booster. Last two times I tapped into that wire up in the dash behind the headunit. That ended in the wire melting and smoking up the cabin when driving 110mph. Not fun.

Can you recommend a good place to take a switchable 12v feed that I will not overload? The two other spots I used must not have been good enough. I will most likely throw in an inline 10amp fuse. Better yet, tapping into a line that already has a 10amp fuse would be great as well.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

That amplifier ought to be drawing about 0.5 amps not 10! Sounds like your measurements indicate a short circuit as does the melting wire! The load pulls or draws power into the wire - the wire doesn't "push" current into the wire causing it to smoke. The load is drawing too much power into the wire - a short circuit will do this.

motown

Dude, fuse the line. That'll stop the burning wires.

wadd3456

iTrader: (1)

So do I throw a 10amp or a 0.5amp fuse? I didnt even realize they sold fuses that small.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

In glass fuses I've seen 1/10th of an amp. I would use the smallest possible fuse you can put your hands on.