How large is the sub opening (square)
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From: coto de caza, ca
I am NOT referring to the round 10" opening, BUT the square opening that is there when you take the faceplate, sub and cover off.
does anyone have width, depth, and heigth (I am trying to figure out if I can slid a box for a 10" sub in there??) of that area???
does anyone have width, depth, and heigth (I am trying to figure out if I can slid a box for a 10" sub in there??) of that area???
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From: coto de caza, ca
Originally posted by SmokinZ
Trust me on this... DO NOT put sub in that area!!!
It is a waste of money.
If you don't like the idea of losing your spare tire then you would be better off not doing anything.
Trust me on this... DO NOT put sub in that area!!!
It is a waste of money.
If you don't like the idea of losing your spare tire then you would be better off not doing anything.
i promise you, those of us who have subs in back are MUCH happier customers...
i bought a track model which does not come with crappy bose system or sub or amp or anything. just an equally crappy clarion system (no sub, no amp)
i must add that it was easier to do the box in the back than stuffing it in that hole behind the seat. (and getting it to sound right)
you really cannot get enough volume in sub-box for a good 10" sub to perform if you try to fit it behind seat...
and (personally) i think a free-air sub would sound like ca-ca in there also...
just givin' out some advice...
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend, and how much you care about your sound
i bought a track model which does not come with crappy bose system or sub or amp or anything. just an equally crappy clarion system (no sub, no amp)
i must add that it was easier to do the box in the back than stuffing it in that hole behind the seat. (and getting it to sound right)
you really cannot get enough volume in sub-box for a good 10" sub to perform if you try to fit it behind seat...
and (personally) i think a free-air sub would sound like ca-ca in there also...
just givin' out some advice...
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend, and how much you care about your sound
Follow Bob's 350Z Mod
http://www.sportzmagazine.com/Z_Home.html
If you don't put the subs facing back, I believe you may not experience the best sound.
My $0.02
Bob
http://www.sportzmagazine.com/Z_Home.html
If you don't put the subs facing back, I believe you may not experience the best sound.
My $0.02
Bob
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From: coto de caza, ca
Originally posted by SmokinZ
i promise you, those of us who have subs in back are MUCH happier customers...
i bought a track model which does not come with crappy bose system or sub or amp or anything. just an equally crappy clarion system (no sub, no amp)
i must add that it was easier to do the box in the back than stuffing it in that hole behind the seat. (and getting it to sound right)
you really cannot get enough volume in sub-box for a good 10" sub to perform if you try to fit it behind seat...
and (personally) i think a free-air sub would sound like ca-ca in there also...
just givin' out some advice...
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend, and how much you care about your sound
i promise you, those of us who have subs in back are MUCH happier customers...
i bought a track model which does not come with crappy bose system or sub or amp or anything. just an equally crappy clarion system (no sub, no amp)
i must add that it was easier to do the box in the back than stuffing it in that hole behind the seat. (and getting it to sound right)
you really cannot get enough volume in sub-box for a good 10" sub to perform if you try to fit it behind seat...
and (personally) i think a free-air sub would sound like ca-ca in there also...
just givin' out some advice...
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend, and how much you care about your sound
btw, that rear area is 2 cubic feet, isn't it?? that is pretty large
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From: coto de caza, ca
Originally posted by publisher
Follow Bob's 350Z Mod
http://www.sportzmagazine.com/Z_Home.html
If you don't put the subs facing back, I believe you may not experience the best sound.
My $0.02
Bob
Follow Bob's 350Z Mod
http://www.sportzmagazine.com/Z_Home.html
If you don't put the subs facing back, I believe you may not experience the best sound.
My $0.02
Bob
My father use to own his own car stereo bussiness in the 70-80s (before high end car audio was avail to the common person), he did MANY musicians, and movie stars' cars. A common thing for him to do is put a set of Kef B-139 (if you have followed car audio for more than 15 years, you probably know the legendary status they have) in a false floor in 911s (he did tons of those). TO me it sounded very very accurate. Maybe not the jaw dropping bass like I have had in some of my cars (2-12" in a bug, radiating off the rear window, 2-10" in a 88 CRX radiating off the rear window, or a 94 civic I had 2 B-139s pointed backwards in the trunk), BUT waaaaaaaay more accurate.
AGAIN I am NOT going for HUGE base, or the "best" system, just something a bit better.
THANX
what do you mean not enough volume? The 10" sub I got require only .7cu in of sealed space. Its about 2 cu ft in the stock area. He asked for stock space size, not opinions on where to mount the sub.
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From: coto de caza, ca
Originally posted by alphared
what do you mean not enough volume? The 10" sub I got require only .7cu in of sealed space. Its about 2 cu ft in the stock area. He asked for stock space size, not opinions on where to mount the sub.
what do you mean not enough volume? The 10" sub I got require only .7cu in of sealed space. Its about 2 cu ft in the stock area. He asked for stock space size, not opinions on where to mount the sub.
ok, probably not...
the hole is 9 3/8 by 19 1/4
because of the angle of the sub, the actual verticle
space is only 6 1/2 inches, since you'd be sliding a sub
horizontally into the space.
the storage bin that fits in that area is a trapazoid (sp)
8 1/2 inches along the face, 9 inches across the top
15 1/2 inches across the bottom and 6 1/2 inches
height across the back.
it bolts into the bracket at the back. these brackets
are 10 inches back from the top of the opening at a
slight angle.
there is an additional 7 inches behind the brackets
the wheel well starts interfering with the space
at the brackets, 10 inches back.
also, I've read that the total area is 5.2 sq ft, so that
would make about 2.6 sq ft on either side? but it's
very irregularlly (sp) shaped. That's why most people
I've talked to say they would do fiberglass instead of wood.
the hole is 9 3/8 by 19 1/4
because of the angle of the sub, the actual verticle
space is only 6 1/2 inches, since you'd be sliding a sub
horizontally into the space.
the storage bin that fits in that area is a trapazoid (sp)
8 1/2 inches along the face, 9 inches across the top
15 1/2 inches across the bottom and 6 1/2 inches
height across the back.
it bolts into the bracket at the back. these brackets
are 10 inches back from the top of the opening at a
slight angle.
there is an additional 7 inches behind the brackets
the wheel well starts interfering with the space
at the brackets, 10 inches back.
also, I've read that the total area is 5.2 sq ft, so that
would make about 2.6 sq ft on either side? but it's
very irregularlly (sp) shaped. That's why most people
I've talked to say they would do fiberglass instead of wood.
Last edited by noahbuddy; Apr 17, 2003 at 12:26 PM.
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From: coto de caza, ca
WOW, that is a crazy set up. I really don't want my car to smell like my surfboard after I fix a ding (or a boat after being repaired with fiberglass) and don't care for the mess, would putting a BUTT load of Dynamat back there, seal ALL the edges off with silicone sealant, then layerd with acoustic foam, then filled with Poly fill possible keep the area somewhat quiet enuf??
Originally posted by noahbuddy
ok, probably not...
the hole is 9 3/8 by 19 1/4
because of the angle of the sub, the actual verticle
space is only 6 1/2 inches, since you'd be sliding a sub
horizontally into the space.
the storage bin that fits in that area is a trapazoid (sp)
8 1/2 inches along the face, 9 inches across the top
15 1/2 inches across the bottom and 6 1/2 inches
height across the back.
it bolts into the bracket at the back. these brackets
are 10 inches back from the top of the opening at a
slight angle.
there is an additional 7 inches behind the brackets
the wheel well starts interfering with the space
at the brackets, 10 inches back.
also, I've read that the total area is 5.2 sq ft, so that
would make about 2.6 sq ft on either side? but it's
very irregularlly (sp) shaped. That's why most people
I've talked to say they would do fiberglass instead of wood.
ok, probably not...
the hole is 9 3/8 by 19 1/4
because of the angle of the sub, the actual verticle
space is only 6 1/2 inches, since you'd be sliding a sub
horizontally into the space.
the storage bin that fits in that area is a trapazoid (sp)
8 1/2 inches along the face, 9 inches across the top
15 1/2 inches across the bottom and 6 1/2 inches
height across the back.
it bolts into the bracket at the back. these brackets
are 10 inches back from the top of the opening at a
slight angle.
there is an additional 7 inches behind the brackets
the wheel well starts interfering with the space
at the brackets, 10 inches back.
also, I've read that the total area is 5.2 sq ft, so that
would make about 2.6 sq ft on either side? but it's
very irregularlly (sp) shaped. That's why most people
I've talked to say they would do fiberglass instead of wood.
Not too sure about the dynamatting thing. I can't think of any 10s offhand that need an enclosure the same volume as that area so you're probably limited to freeair subs (which suck). If you're looking for accuracy with a fair amount of bass you may do well to try to try to engineer some sort of enclosure with two 8" subs. A 10 would be nearly impossible to fit in there due to the pretty extreme angle of the front face -- the magnet would hit the bottom of the box. I seem to recall a few people on this site doing two 8s in the stock location in a custom enclosure and being pretty pleased.
just build a box. have the sub fire up instead of at an angle. Thats what I'm going to do. Looking at that drawing, seems something is off.
The bottom one, which I assume is a side view of the area. The measurements don't add up.
You have 8 1/2" for the angle. 6 1/2 for the height. 9 and 15 1/2 for top and bottom. If you cut that up, you get 9x6.5x15.5 for the rectangle. BUT the triangle don't add up.
15.5-9=6.5, so base and height are the same.
6.5^2 + 6.5^2 = 9.19^2, but you have 8.5"
Planning to put a 14x18x6.5 (.7cu in) box in that area. Going to take measure measurement today to make sure.
The bottom one, which I assume is a side view of the area. The measurements don't add up.
You have 8 1/2" for the angle. 6 1/2 for the height. 9 and 15 1/2 for top and bottom. If you cut that up, you get 9x6.5x15.5 for the rectangle. BUT the triangle don't add up.
15.5-9=6.5, so base and height are the same.
6.5^2 + 6.5^2 = 9.19^2, but you have 8.5"
Planning to put a 14x18x6.5 (.7cu in) box in that area. Going to take measure measurement today to make sure.
The 8 1/2 was the inside mouth of the storage,
the 6 1/2 was the outside. My bad.
There is some "play" in the opening around the front
of the bin, so 9.2 is probably closer to the real #.
the 6 1/2 was the outside. My bad.
There is some "play" in the opening around the front
of the bin, so 9.2 is probably closer to the real #.
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From: coto de caza, ca
Originally posted by alphared
just build a box. have the sub fire up instead of at an angle. Thats what I'm going to do. Looking at that drawing, seems something is off.
The bottom one, which I assume is a side view of the area. The measurements don't add up.
You have 8 1/2" for the angle. 6 1/2 for the height. 9 and 15 1/2 for top and bottom. If you cut that up, you get 9x6.5x15.5 for the rectangle. BUT the triangle don't add up.
15.5-9=6.5, so base and height are the same.
6.5^2 + 6.5^2 = 9.19^2, but you have 8.5"
Planning to put a 14x18x6.5 (.7cu in) box in that area. Going to take measure measurement today to make sure.
just build a box. have the sub fire up instead of at an angle. Thats what I'm going to do. Looking at that drawing, seems something is off.
The bottom one, which I assume is a side view of the area. The measurements don't add up.
You have 8 1/2" for the angle. 6 1/2 for the height. 9 and 15 1/2 for top and bottom. If you cut that up, you get 9x6.5x15.5 for the rectangle. BUT the triangle don't add up.
15.5-9=6.5, so base and height are the same.
6.5^2 + 6.5^2 = 9.19^2, but you have 8.5"
Planning to put a 14x18x6.5 (.7cu in) box in that area. Going to take measure measurement today to make sure.
The external size of the box is 18WX6.5HX12.5D
the boards were cut in the following measrments
2@18X6.5
2@ 16.5 X 5
2@ 16.5X12.5
I also used a a hookless tie mount.. The boards were cut @ homedepote.. for about $12.00.. The tie down was about $9.00..
In the pic you can see that I ran the tie down throught a hole in the center fram support and arrount the box.. I would make th ebox about 1/2 inch wider.. so you would have a little more cubic space..
Any bigger in any other demension and I you leave yourself no room to work.. Good luck
the boards were cut in the following measrments
2@18X6.5
2@ 16.5 X 5
2@ 16.5X12.5
I also used a a hookless tie mount.. The boards were cut @ homedepote.. for about $12.00.. The tie down was about $9.00..
In the pic you can see that I ran the tie down throught a hole in the center fram support and arrount the box.. I would make th ebox about 1/2 inch wider.. so you would have a little more cubic space..
Any bigger in any other demension and I you leave yourself no room to work.. Good luck


