My mind is long gone.

Thanks so much StreetOC - I'll look into these parts/dealers!
Honestly, those prices don't seem that great. Are they great quality? I've never heard of them..

What is the benefit to more watt capability? Clarity, or volume?

 

CDT is definitely the way to go, 100%. The CDT, especially the CL-61 series, are AWESOME speakers and will sound better than anything you can buy out there - even those that cost 5 times as much. If you want more justification, just go to nasioc and search CDT and read the reviews. /thread


ps. I seriously don't think that "elemental design" are rebadged cdt's. They look like pure crap compared to CDT.

 

Those CDT's are spec'd at 2.5" depth but look bigger. You think a spacer is needed for it?

They are also rated at 150RMS. Any recommendations on an amp to power these?

 

What RMS watts are those CDT Components?

I was going to just go with the MB Quart setup all around with a 60x4@4 amp to save some bucks and I'm sure it'd be acceptable, but I think I'll go with the CDT setup on the first page, with a 150x4@4 amp. Which amp is better?
I don't know what the other specs mean but this is well priced:

Power Acoustik:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+OV4-1600.html

 

The CDT's that were posted are rated at 150 RMS so you would need a 4 channel amp that pushes 150RMS x 4 preferably. I have read some pretty good reviews on the CDT's but I am fairly certain you will need spacers due to their magnet size - but it would be worth it to get the spacers instead of a lesser speaker.

 

I haven't taken a Z door apart yet - the spacers push the speaker closer to the inside of the car, I assume? Does that interfere with the panel or grill at all?
I agree, if it's a possibility and works okay in the end, it's a small price to pay.
I might try that Power Acoustik amp posted above. 150x4@4 and it's cheap. And I think the CDT's came with Monster Cables. Cool.

 

I personally would not recomend any amp that touts "max power" in their specs. They can't be taken seriously! Max power is a meaningless statement. It's not a measurement. Root Mean Squared (RMS) is an actual measurement that you can rely on.

Funny thing, I looked at the precision power web site and they now rate their amps at MAX POWER!! WTF happened to that company?

Now they bring up this CEA compliance. Wtf is that? OK, I looked it up and it's a new standard that companies (I wonder who?) are trying to push. but they make their power rating at 14.4 volts... Great for a company that builds unregulated amps with questionable power supplies. I like fully-regulated power supply amps that state a power output from 9volts to 15volts.

I think I need my own thread for this.

Anyway, MAufacturers can determine their own way of measuring "max power" and they may notline up with other manufacturer's standards. The term Max power is meant to deceive those that do not understand electronics. RMS is the only thing that means anything.

 

I kind of see what you're saying and agree...

But the amp I posted also shows 150x4@4 - - does the voltage change that? I was ignoring the max power spec.

 

I'd be willing to bet I could piece together a better sounding set for about $450.....well within your "5x as much" claim. It's all in the install my friend.

I had read that somewhere about 5 years ago....you know, when not many people ever heard of eD. Back then I do believe they really were rebadged CDT's, Perhaps not anymore. Just like their amps used to be rebadged Avionixx amps.

 

WyattH, with all due respect I would recommend perhaps sitting down for a little bit and reading some info on this site to better grasp an understanding of some of the topics you are inquiring about........

http://www.bcae1.com/

 

Bookmarked. I'll plow through ASAP. Thanks.

 

Personally, I may go with the CDT's and a suitable amp. I was considering POLK Momo's as well but CDT's look like the better quality.

I am also considering dampening the door with some sound deading material. Would this be recommended in the door and/or the rear speaker area?

 

The BOSE system is the same as stock, but with a 10'' subwoofer, correct?

Would you guys do:

new 6.5'' components up front, new 6.5'' midbass behind the seats, and a new 10'' sub...

OR

new 6.5'' components up front AND behind the seats, with a new 10'' sub...

OR

new 6.5'' components up front (only) with a new 10'' sub?

 

CDT are most certainly not the best you can buy
they are good however

i have $2000 worth of CDT gold front stage , so they are super however

Rainbow
Hertz
Morel

are also top notch

 

I'm going to go with components up front (CDT or Polk), midbass behind the seat (mostly because I dont want to drill for the tweeter comp) and no sub for now. down the road I am going to add a 10" sub, possibly a magic box for the corner. the stock bose will remain there disconnected for now. Maybe later I can take the stock bose out and house my amps there. By the way, I am going with the New Alpine amps (4.150). I'm building my Ebay list!

 

we don't do rear speakers around here

 

I've only been one car that didn't have rear speakers connected. It was an E46 M3 with Dynaudio equipment. It sounded.. weird. To me, at least.
Maybe the acoustics of the Z interior handle it better, but I could not handle the off-balance tune of the M3.

If you don't do rear speakers, what kind of amp do you get?

I'm thinking of MB Quart RVF216 up front (6.5'' reference components - 70-140w), and RSH254 10'' component reference sub in the back (400w rms)... so do I want a 3 channel amp that does 100x2+400? or a 4 channel that I can bridge?
Or can a 200w head unit power the speakers and just get an amp for the sub?

 

What do you guys think about the Memphis M-Class series?
They have a nice looking 50w RMS 6.5'' component series and 200w RMS 10'' woofer... And an amplifier that might mate up well.
Is that low power a "problem"?

Also - on Amp bridging - can you bridge HALF of the amp? Not sure what bridging is, but say:
* 50 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
* 75 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
* 150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohsm bridged

Can you arrange it to be 150x1@4 & 50x2@4? So all running at 4ohms, but only half is bridged?

 

Would you guys go with Memphis M-Class, MB Quart Reference, or Infiniti Kappa? I want to keep most pieces of the system in the same class/series/brand.

Still dont understand what amp and powering the kit.. Ughhh.

 

Yes you can.