Speaker sizes
#21
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My mind is long gone.
Thanks so much StreetOC - I'll look into these parts/dealers!
Honestly, those prices don't seem that great. Are they great quality? I've never heard of them..
What is the benefit to more watt capability? Clarity, or volume?
Thanks so much StreetOC - I'll look into these parts/dealers!
Honestly, those prices don't seem that great. Are they great quality? I've never heard of them..
What is the benefit to more watt capability? Clarity, or volume?
Last edited by WyattH; 01-29-2008 at 04:09 PM.
#22
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CDT is definitely the way to go, 100%. The CDT, especially the CL-61 series, are AWESOME speakers and will sound better than anything you can buy out there - even those that cost 5 times as much. If you want more justification, just go to nasioc and search CDT and read the reviews. /thread
ps. I seriously don't think that "elemental design" are rebadged cdt's. They look like pure crap compared to CDT.
ps. I seriously don't think that "elemental design" are rebadged cdt's. They look like pure crap compared to CDT.
#24
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What RMS watts are those CDT Components?
I was going to just go with the MB Quart setup all around with a 60x4@4 amp to save some bucks and I'm sure it'd be acceptable, but I think I'll go with the CDT setup on the first page, with a 150x4@4 amp. Which amp is better?
I don't know what the other specs mean but this is well priced:
Power Acoustik:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+OV4-1600.html
I was going to just go with the MB Quart setup all around with a 60x4@4 amp to save some bucks and I'm sure it'd be acceptable, but I think I'll go with the CDT setup on the first page, with a 150x4@4 amp. Which amp is better?
I don't know what the other specs mean but this is well priced:
Power Acoustik:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+OV4-1600.html
Last edited by WyattH; 01-29-2008 at 09:30 PM.
#25
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The CDT's that were posted are rated at 150 RMS so you would need a 4 channel amp that pushes 150RMS x 4 preferably. I have read some pretty good reviews on the CDT's but I am fairly certain you will need spacers due to their magnet size - but it would be worth it to get the spacers instead of a lesser speaker.
#26
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I haven't taken a Z door apart yet - the spacers push the speaker closer to the inside of the car, I assume? Does that interfere with the panel or grill at all?
I agree, if it's a possibility and works okay in the end, it's a small price to pay.
I might try that Power Acoustik amp posted above. 150x4@4 and it's cheap. And I think the CDT's came with Monster Cables. Cool.
I agree, if it's a possibility and works okay in the end, it's a small price to pay.
I might try that Power Acoustik amp posted above. 150x4@4 and it's cheap. And I think the CDT's came with Monster Cables. Cool.
#27
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Originally Posted by WyattH
What RMS watts are those CDT Components?
I was going to just go with the MB Quart setup all around with a 60x4@4 amp to save some bucks and I'm sure it'd be acceptable, but I think I'll go with the CDT setup on the first page, with a 150x4@4 amp. Which amp is better?
I don't know what the other specs mean but this is well priced:
Power Acoustik:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+OV4-1600.html
I was going to just go with the MB Quart setup all around with a 60x4@4 amp to save some bucks and I'm sure it'd be acceptable, but I think I'll go with the CDT setup on the first page, with a 150x4@4 amp. Which amp is better?
I don't know what the other specs mean but this is well priced:
Power Acoustik:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+OV4-1600.html
Funny thing, I looked at the precision power web site and they now rate their amps at MAX POWER!! WTF happened to that company?
Now they bring up this CEA compliance. Wtf is that? OK, I looked it up and it's a new standard that companies (I wonder who?) are trying to push. but they make their power rating at 14.4 volts... Great for a company that builds unregulated amps with questionable power supplies. I like fully-regulated power supply amps that state a power output from 9volts to 15volts.
I think I need my own thread for this.
Anyway, MAufacturers can determine their own way of measuring "max power" and they may notline up with other manufacturer's standards. The term Max power is meant to deceive those that do not understand electronics. RMS is the only thing that means anything.
#28
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I kind of see what you're saying and agree...
But the amp I posted also shows 150x4@4 - - does the voltage change that? I was ignoring the max power spec.
But the amp I posted also shows 150x4@4 - - does the voltage change that? I was ignoring the max power spec.
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Originally Posted by firedancer
The CDT, especially the CL-61 series, are AWESOME speakers and will sound better than anything you can buy out there - even those that cost 5 times as much. If you want more justification, just go to nasioc and search CDT and read the reviews. /thread
Originally Posted by firedancer
ps. I seriously don't think that "elemental design" are rebadged cdt's. They look like pure crap compared to CDT.
Last edited by StreetOC192; 01-30-2008 at 03:28 AM.
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Originally Posted by WyattH
I kind of see what you're saying and agree...
But the amp I posted also shows 150x4@4 - - does the voltage change that? I was ignoring the max power spec.
But the amp I posted also shows 150x4@4 - - does the voltage change that? I was ignoring the max power spec.
http://www.bcae1.com/
#32
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Personally, I may go with the CDT's and a suitable amp. I was considering POLK Momo's as well but CDT's look like the better quality.
I am also considering dampening the door with some sound deading material. Would this be recommended in the door and/or the rear speaker area?
I am also considering dampening the door with some sound deading material. Would this be recommended in the door and/or the rear speaker area?
#33
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The BOSE system is the same as stock, but with a 10'' subwoofer, correct?
Would you guys do:
new 6.5'' components up front, new 6.5'' midbass behind the seats, and a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front AND behind the seats, with a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front (only) with a new 10'' sub?
Would you guys do:
new 6.5'' components up front, new 6.5'' midbass behind the seats, and a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front AND behind the seats, with a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front (only) with a new 10'' sub?
#34
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Originally Posted by firedancer
CDT is definitely the way to go, 100%. The CDT, especially the CL-61 series, are AWESOME speakers and will sound better than anything you can buy out there - even those that cost 5 times as much. If you want more justification, just go to nasioc and search CDT and read the reviews. /thread
ps. I seriously don't think that "elemental design" are rebadged cdt's. They
look like pure crap compared to CDT.
ps. I seriously don't think that "elemental design" are rebadged cdt's. They
look like pure crap compared to CDT.
they are good however
i have $2000 worth of CDT gold front stage , so they are super however
Rainbow
Hertz
Morel
are also top notch
#35
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I'm going to go with components up front (CDT or Polk), midbass behind the seat (mostly because I dont want to drill for the tweeter comp) and no sub for now. down the road I am going to add a 10" sub, possibly a magic box for the corner. the stock bose will remain there disconnected for now. Maybe later I can take the stock bose out and house my amps there. By the way, I am going with the New Alpine amps (4.150). I'm building my Ebay list!
#36
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Originally Posted by WyattH
The BOSE system is the same as stock, but with a 10'' subwoofer, correct?
Would you guys do:
new 6.5'' components up front, new 6.5'' midbass behind the seats, and a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front AND behind the seats, with a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front (only) with a new 10'' sub?
Would you guys do:
new 6.5'' components up front, new 6.5'' midbass behind the seats, and a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front AND behind the seats, with a new 10'' sub...
OR
new 6.5'' components up front (only) with a new 10'' sub?
#37
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I've only been one car that didn't have rear speakers connected. It was an E46 M3 with Dynaudio equipment. It sounded.. weird. To me, at least.
Maybe the acoustics of the Z interior handle it better, but I could not handle the off-balance tune of the M3.
If you don't do rear speakers, what kind of amp do you get?
I'm thinking of MB Quart RVF216 up front (6.5'' reference components - 70-140w), and RSH254 10'' component reference sub in the back (400w rms)... so do I want a 3 channel amp that does 100x2+400? or a 4 channel that I can bridge?
Or can a 200w head unit power the speakers and just get an amp for the sub?
Last edited by WyattH; 02-01-2008 at 04:36 PM.
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What do you guys think about the Memphis M-Class series?
They have a nice looking 50w RMS 6.5'' component series and 200w RMS 10'' woofer... And an amplifier that might mate up well.
Is that low power a "problem"?
Also - on Amp bridging - can you bridge HALF of the amp? Not sure what bridging is, but say:
* 50 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
* 75 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
* 150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohsm bridged
Can you arrange it to be 150x1@4 & 50x2@4? So all running at 4ohms, but only half is bridged?
They have a nice looking 50w RMS 6.5'' component series and 200w RMS 10'' woofer... And an amplifier that might mate up well.
Is that low power a "problem"?
Also - on Amp bridging - can you bridge HALF of the amp? Not sure what bridging is, but say:
* 50 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
* 75 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
* 150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohsm bridged
Can you arrange it to be 150x1@4 & 50x2@4? So all running at 4ohms, but only half is bridged?
#39
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Would you guys go with Memphis M-Class, MB Quart Reference, or Infiniti Kappa? I want to keep most pieces of the system in the same class/series/brand.
Still dont understand what amp and powering the kit.. Ughhh.
Still dont understand what amp and powering the kit.. Ughhh.
#40
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Originally Posted by WyattH
Also - on Amp bridging - can you bridge HALF of the amp? Not sure what bridging is, but say:
* 50 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
* 75 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
* 150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohsm bridged
Can you arrange it to be 150x1@4 & 50x2@4? So all running at 4ohms, but only half is bridged?
* 50 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
* 75 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
* 150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohsm bridged
Can you arrange it to be 150x1@4 & 50x2@4? So all running at 4ohms, but only half is bridged?