Ok its been quite a while since ive built a stellar audio system in any vehicle. But i just got my Z and the Bose system is ok but it sounds a little shrill and i figure its time to build something nice. Anyways here is what im thinking:

Using this Pioneer head unit and painting the center console around it Solar black to match the car:



but if i do this i have to switch all the interior lighting ( gauges, hvac, etc.) to blue to match the head unit.

Or i may be keeping the factory head unit for aesthetics and putting an Audio Control signal processor behind it.

For mids and highs i was thinking of CDT because of all the good things ive heard about them but i live in Kansas and i dont know of a shop who carries them to be able to give them a listen. So i may be opting for Focal Polyglass components instead.

Rear speakers, i know they arent needed at all in a 2 seater, but for looks i may put something in the pods. Unless i can think of something else cool to fab in there instead. Maybe a couple audio gauges could look cool.

Subs: Im thinking of RE Audio SE10's. One mounted in the factory Bose spot and the other where the glove box is. Yes i can do fiberglass so this isnt a problem.

Amps: Not sure what to do here. I was thinking of US Amps or Zapco but im open to suggestions at this point.

All wires, fuse blocks, and cables will be by Audison.

Any comments or feedback would be great. Cuz ive been out of the audio loop for awhile and may be getting ready to purchase some stuff that isnt up to par. thanks

 

rockford fosgate power series component and coaxial speakers. alpine type x sub (1000 rms and made from kevlar). two alpine pdx amps, pdx 4.150, pdx 1.1000. I recommend that you don't put the sub behind the drivers seat because the seat will absorb a lot of the bass. you will also need a capacitor, but get one that's at least 5 farad.

 

Why a 5 farad cap? Can you please explain the importance of this?

 

sansoo22,

As you will find searching through this audio forum, you will see that components are a personal taste item. I recommend listening to as many sets as possible to find out what sets have the timbre YOU like. Install will also play an important role in how they sound. I recommend either door pods or kicks. The stock location for the woofer and tweeter both leave a lot to be desired. Some brands to look at are CDT, Zapco, Helix, Focal, Morel, Seas, DLS, Rainbow, AVI, Brax, Hertz.....there are a lot more that I'm sure I'm forgetting at the moment if you are looking to impress with brand names.

Rear fill is also a personal choice, but the general concensus is that it is not needed in the Z since there are no back seat passengers to entertain. Saving the money normally spent on a set of rears can go toward buying better fronts and better install and you will never miss the rears IMHO. The look will be the same if you put speakers there or not, so not sure what you mean by your comment.

Regardless of your fiberglass skills, I would not recommend a sub behind the drivers seat unless you can mimic the Wicked Cas glove box enclosure. That would be the only way you will get good output from the sub. I would recommend looking at the premade enclosures already on the market and either buying one of them or building your own similar in design. These locations and designs are proven to be the best mounting locations and configurations available to this car. The RE sub is a great choice. Also look at Fi, AVI, Image Dynamics.

Once you have picked out your components and sub, then you can look for an amp or amps to power these within spec. Zapco, McIntosh, Audison, Helix, Arc, Brax, US Amps.....all great high end brands that are sure to impress by name alone if that is your goal. There are a lot more, but these are some of the bigger names for high end.

 

get a cap. period. i have a 2 farad for my 500W sub, it just makes sense...

 

thats a purdy unit, would look sleek in a Z

 

Maybe it's just me, but I am failing to see the reasoning behind the physics of a cap with the modest system. I'm not trying to start any type of argument, I am really interested in knowing the physics behind it. 2 farads for 500 watts?

 

StreetOC192:

Is there a reason you suggest NOT custom building a box for the glove box? The Wicked CAS box doesnt look all the special but the description on their site doesnt elude to it being special as far as harmonics are concerned.

I agree with the timbre of components as far as being good or bad can only really be determined by the end user. But with a limited supply, well virtually no one, in the area selling anything rather than inflated gimics and speakers barely better than Best Buy has to offer, how is one supposed to choose?

As far as being a brand *****, to me it doesnt matter what you call it, if the product performs it performs. I was merely wondering, on amps, if the two companies i was used to using in the past were still good or not. A lot of things can change in the 5 yrs its been since i built a system.

Rear spkrs: I was planning on doing custom grilles for the fronts so as far as looks go if the pods are there with factory grilles it may look a little off in the rear.

s31t8n8

Not sure what 5 farads are gonna be used for with only 1000 wrms. I thought it was .5 farad for every 500 wrms as a rule of thumb. Thanks for the advice but ive never been a Rockford or Alpine fan. Not saying anything is wrong with them i just prefer others.

Thanks for the replies looks like my choices werent too far off. Gonna grab a phone book and start calling around for local dealers now. Maybe ill find someone within an hours drive or so.

 

i have a cap in my car.. Caps are only for show.. they are useless

 

looks like he has everything covered.. not much more i can add to that

 

Brand ******? those are people who come in here to shoot off their mouths about products even though they are adviced of other options..

Brand ******? those are people who you tell that they can get a pair of Components called 'Dad's Crap' for $200 that will out perform 'JL Audio''s $500 components, but they choose 'JL' over 'Dad's Crap' because everyone KNOWS JL Audio

 

battery > cap
HO alt > cap
Battery & Alt > cap

cap = poo poo

 

IMHO, and from the experience of others who have tried, unless the sub is down firing in the glovebox or OE sub location, you will lose out on the cabin gain from installing in the hatch area. You won't be getting the most out of the sub if you install it front firing. If you want to give it a shot, by all means make something and let us know if it was a success. I would love to see someone come up with a front firing solution that sounds good in the Z. I'd like my hatch back......and for those who are more weight conscious, it might be better to have the heavy subs more in the middle of the car than in the rear. But then if one were THAT conscious about weight saving and distribution, they most likely wouldn't be installing a system

It certainly is not easy. With all of the fantastic sets out there it is impossible for anyone to demo them all unless you went to a show. Elaborate on your tastes, music preference, and how you plan to install in the front and maybe some of us can help you a little better.

I am very glad you said this, and it's refreshing to find someone who is not brainwashed by marketing. Most of the brands I listed are high end companies that make equipment out of passion more so than to make a buck. Of course they wouldn't be in business if they didn't want to make money, but what I mean is they charge a premium for their equipment because they sink it back into R&D rather than Big 4 page ads in Auto Sound & Security magazine. Their products command a premium because they perform, not because everyone knows their name.

I get it now. My thought remains - no need for rears, and I don't feel the grills are that out in the open when the seats are back in place that it would make that big of a difference. But it is your car, so if YOU will feel better with speakers and custom grills, them make it happen.



PS - And you are correct that the rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 1000rms watts. Anything more is a waste.......IMHO though, caps are for show as doug said. If you NEED a cap to keep your lights from dimming, then you are merely placing a band aid over the bigger problem. But again, this discussion has been covered here.....INCLUDING a big write up I made in this forum about a year ago. If you really want to discuss the relevance of caps, search for that post and revive it.

 

What about High-Output Alternator + Optima Yellow Top + Upgraded Wiring (Grounds, etc.) + Cap?

Yeah I know and I am sure most of you know by now I am the King of "Overkill."

 

lol but overkill in a very very good way. Still wish you lived nearby so i could hear that beast.

 

^^^ = you will never have dimming lights or any other strain on your electrical system

 

I'd stay away from US Amps. I have Alpines best HU and Diamond Audio HEX Components and in both my Z and my wife's G35. Her car has Soundstream Amps and the Z has US Amps. Her G sounds significantly better than my Z. I think US Amps quality has gone downhill since "old school" days.

 

I have two US Amps and what i have heard is quite the opposite.. that they have gone up in quality since the 'old days' but its only hearsay

 

I highly suggest you giving this a shot, both interms of fabrication and how it sounds, see if you can come up with a more cost effective and better sounding solution

For roadsters, i eclusively use these boxes despite the fact that i can make boxes if i wanted to.

 

Given the slightly better acoustics of the G, even if you switched amps between the 2 cars, the G would probably still sound better, assuming all installation locations are stock.

TK