Denver350z

iTrader: (2)

Here is my set-up.

Rear Speakers - run off of HU
Front - JL 300/2
Sub - JL 300/2

So the problem is that my front speakers and sub have stopped playing. My rear speakers work. I am trying to figure out what the problem is. My amps turn on, but I have no output to the speakers. They just cut out one day.

Both amps dont work, so I would figure that something is wrong with the headunit outputs and not the actual amplifiers.

DVFlyer

iTrader: (18)

Yup, sounds like the input from the HU to the amps. Assuming by "turning on" you mean the trigger wire is functioning correctly.

Stock or aftermarket HU? If stock, how are you running a signal to your amps?

Denver350z

iTrader: (2)

I mean the amps are on... as in the fuse is not blown and the HU is telling them to "turn-on".

Aftermarket head-unit (AVID D-2) using RCA cables for running the signal from the HU to the amps.

DVFlyer

iTrader: (18)

I don't know those amps, but be sure the amp is being triggered and not just getting power from the battery. i.e. green light instead of red (or however they indicate a signal received).

See if you can think of any common thing those amps have. i.e. ground, etc. Since they both went out, it makes sense it's something that they both are connected to together.

If everything there is fine, I think I'd probably check the RCA connections on the back of the head unit first. Seems odd that both would go out at the same time- you'd think only one pair would go or only one channel.

But start with the 12v trigger. Make sure it's triggering.

DVFlyer

iTrader: (18)

Found this by downloading the manual.

“MY AMPLIFIER TURNS ON,BUT THERE IS NO OUTPUT”
Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the
voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone
is played through the source unit (disconnect the RCA
cables from the amplifier prior to this test).The frequency
used should be in the range that is to amplified by the
amplifier (example:50 Hz for a sub bass application or
1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application).A steady
voltage should be present at the output of the RCA cables.
If you are receiving a sufficient voltage (between 0.2 and 8.0-
volts),check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a
good connection with the metal inside the amplifier.The
connectors are designed to accept up to an 8 AWG wire.If
you are using significantly smaller wire (14 AWG or smaller),
you may have difficulty making an adequate connection.In
this case,you may find it necessary to “fold”the wire over
once (or twice!) so as to make a solid connection.Make
sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection
with the input or output of the amplifier.
Check the output of the amplifier.Using the procedure explained in
the previous check item (after plugging the RCA cables back
into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the
amplifier.Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels,it is a good
idea to remove the speaker wires from the amplifier while
doing this.Turn the volume up approximately half way.
5 volts or more should be measured at the speaker outputs.
This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it
should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half
volume.If you are reading sufficient voltage,check your speaker
connections as explained above.


“MY AMPLIFIER DOESN’T TURN ON”
Check to make sure there is +12V at the“Remote”connection of
the amplifier.In some cases,the turn-on lead from the source
unit is insufficient to turn on multiple devices and the use of a
relay is required.To test for this problem,jump the “+12V”
wire to the “Remote”terminal to see if the amplifier turns on.
If this does not work,proceed to the next step.
Check the fuse,not just visually,but with a continuity meter.It is
possible for a fuse to have poor internal connections that
cannot be found by visual inspection.It is best to take the
fuse out of the holder for testing.If no problem is found
with the fuse,inspect the fuse-holder.

Denver350z

iTrader: (2)

ya, I read the amp manual before I posted here... thanks though.

I actually messed around with it based on your other posts. It made sense that it had to be a common connection since both amps are going out. Well, my amp turn-on wire goes from the HU to the first amp, then goes from the first amp to the second amp.

I messed with the amp turn-on wire and was able to get them to work. I think that my current connection from the HU to the amp was not so good. It works perfect now.

Thanks for your help.

DVFlyer

iTrader: (18)

Cool.