For all the "Hey noob, try searching first." posts seen in threads I figured I'd post this here for you guys. Maybe I'm an idiot (ok well... at least not all the time ) but I couldn't find this tid-bit of information.

For those of us that are pushing a measly 30-40 watts from our recently installed head units and want to bypass the BOSE amp in the back the info wasn't clear and easily searchable. Yes, I know the wiring probably sucks, Yes its not a great gauge and yes, there's way too much of it... but for a quick fix why not?

Although there is a easy to find sticky about the wiring codes and theirs a wiring diagramfor the audio system. Neither are a clear simple answer to :

THE COLOR CODES FOR BYPASSING BOSE AMP (the one in the trunk)

RL+ White/Black *connects to* Yellow/Green
RL- Blue/Black *connects to* Yellow/Blue
RR+ Green *connects to* Blue
RR- Green/White *connects to* Pink
FL+ Black *connects to* Light Green
FR- White [*connects to* Purple (magenta)
FR+ Brown *connects to*Green
FR- Black/Red *connects to* Red


Mine is a 2003 so I'm not sure if this changes for later models.

 

If someone is planning to do the Bose amp bypass and is installing an after-market head unit, which wiring harness should they purchase?

The Non Bose Harness
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207075...7#overview-tab

The Bose Harness
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207075...s.html?tp=2977

 

I would think you would want the harness for non bose. but the question I have is if you bypass the amp, doesn't the sub not turn on?? whats the RMS of the stock radio amp? I was thinking when I get an aftermarket radio, bypassing the amp too. I've read the sub won't turn on anymore. so then you would have to go aftermarket amp and sub.
I found this site http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/...UW44V24tdms%3D when i did some research on bypassing the amp.