How many Watts can I pull from the stock system and not have a battery issue?

 

it depends are you wanting to follow the cap crew

or the battery crew

fyi the battery crew KILLS the Cap crew



it is not how many watts you can pull from your stock electrical , it is how many amps you can pull

please tell me what products you have to install

if you have a 350z with stock electrical than you can use amp or amps that are roughly a total of 1000 watts and should pull roughly 100 amps give or take

please give me a list of what you have

 

Depends on the efficiency of the amp(s). A more appropriate question would be "how many amperes of draw could I add to my car before having a battery issue?"

This is not a very easy question to answer because there are so many variables, like the margin will be greatly different with headlights on versus off.

You could get a ball-park by taking the amps generated by the alternator, then subtracting 75% of the total amp ratings of all the fuses in the car's fuse boxes. That will give you the overhead of the alternator if all accessories were engaged all at the same time (which is near impossible).

 

Zapco 200.2, and 500.1 and Audio Control EQX.

 

Ok, so how do I get an answer to my question? I would prefer it if the headlights didnt dim when the bass hit... but hey, that's just me...

 

what is the rms on each amp

what is the fuse rating on each amp

 

In daily driving and listening at MODERATE volumes, you should be good with amplifiers that have a total combined fuse rating of 100 amperes without light dimming. Listening at moderate volumes of course you are not drawing all 100 amperes. This is on a stock electrical system.

 

50 x 2 (25 amp)
360 x 1 (40 amp if running at 500 watts if bridged)

 

Total additional amps is 65 at max output.

 

You are golden.

I have an Eclipse XA1000 and XA2000 (rated 80 amps max total) and listen at fairly high volumes and have ZERO light dimming.

 

Also, I read that the voltmeter in the car is more or less useless? As long as it's above 12.5 I shouldn't pay too much attention? Currently it sits around 13.7 to 14.2... I figure that this is acceptable and I am not going to end up with a dead battery?

 

thank you for your help on this matter.. I appreciate you not flaming me

I am using a distribution block for my power, but I have been told that using a distribution block for my ground is not a good idea... thoughts suggestions?

Also, I can't get any info about this EQX that I have, and noone is responding to my thread I posted about it... Just wondering...

 

my research shows
200.2
50 x 2 @ 4 ohm
100 x 2 @ 4 ohm
max amperage draw on this piece 26 amps
it is fused from factory with a 25 amp blade fuse


the 500.1
350 x 1 @ 4
500 x 1 @ 2
total amperage draw 40 amps
comes factory with 40 amp blade fuse on amp


if these 2 pieces are the only aftermarket pieces pulling current

i would run 1/0 awg power run from front battery to rear hatch
i would then use an 80 amp anl fuse within 15" off positive post from under hood battery on power wire

i would run my power wire to a 0 awg in and and 2 x 4 awg out agu fused distribution block

fuse the power wire going to the 500 with a 40 amp agu fuse and the power wire going to 200 with a 20 amp agu fuse


remove 6 awg power wire running from alt to positive terminal on under hood battery and change this wire from factory 6 awg to 1/0 awg


then off the negative battery under you hood remove factory 6 awg ground to inner fender and change to 1/0 awg ground

you will also find 2 each 8 awg ground wires running from upper front passenger side of motor to underneath coolant overflow resoivoir change these from 8 awg to 1/0


with this you will be able to use amps on full tilt and ac, and headlights and should have no light dimming


if after this you have light dimming 1 each stinger 680 will fix that

 

mine sits at 16 volts

 

Yeah, you are fine in that range. As the wiring heats up from engine heat it will become slightly less conductive and therefore you might get a slightly lower reading than 14.4 volts. It's normal and is no cause for alarm.

For that voltage, you can use 4awg amp wiring (bigger is always better for future possible expansion though). A distro block on the ground isn't necessarily a BAD idea, but is not needed and just adds one more transfer-resistance factor. If building for looks, use a ground distro block. If building for efficiency/performance do NOT use a ground distro block.

No need to flame, everyone learns their info from somewhere......why not make it here where you can feel comfortable learning. I have gathered a ton of my experience over the last 16 years in car audio from a myriad of sources.

 

That must be with your flux capacitor on, right?

 

I'm using a 4 gauge power wire... is this not adequate the above post makes me think it should be fine.. ? I was under the impression that 4 gauge wire was good for something like 100 amps... maybe I'm incorrect here. If I don't rerun everything and change out the power and ground to the battery will I have problems?

I will define. put inline fuses to both amps, and get the ANL fuse for my power dist. block.

 

4awg is fine for what you are running. Here are some good charts for wire size ratings and all
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

 

if you already have 4 awg it will work

when trying to get the most out of a factory electrical without the use of HO alt, extra batteries

then using the wire i am recommending reduces resistance to a minimum

if you are gonna buy new wire use 1/0 awg

if you already bought 4 awg use it
make 2 ,4 awg runs from front to back fuse 1 up front with a 20 amp fuse for 200.2

use the 2nd 4 awg power run to 500.1 and fuse up front with 40 amp fuse



still do all the wire upgrades i mentioned just use 4 awg instaed on 1/0


again if you have not bought power wire get 1/0

 

Great, thank you for the info. I will run two 4's off the battery into the stock sub area where my rack is going.

I have been into car stereos for about 10 years, this is my first real install. This is the last time I don't just buy what I want in the first place. I have ended up buying and replacing the entire thing... Amps, processor and Speakers fronts and sub.. No more shade tree installing here... I am so frustrated... This has gone on for way too long...

the 500.1 giving an IDQ10v3 (I haven't bought the new sub yet, but this is what I am leaning towards, much better than my current JL 10W0) 360 watts will make it sound good right? I mean the rec. power is 50 - 500 watts... I figure 360 should suffice... Also, the Zenclosure I have is .75 cuft. After displacement the box will have .70 internal volume, the rec. volume is .55, will this be ok?

I might take pics, but it's nothing special in terms of build or novelty.

Where can I find some ring terminals I want black, red and blue ring terminals. Should I use rings or the hook like things?