Get_Zwole

iTrader: (34)

DLS is by far my fav. Im finishing up my install tomorrow ill post some pics. Dls iridium 3 way active midbass in door pods, mid's and tweets in dash pods on axis. dls ra20 for midbass, ra40 for mids and tweets.

Still got a jl w6v2 till i can afford to go a different route with the bass.

ninor

iTrader: (5)

I heard DLS 3 ways are awesome! How much did you pay for those 3 ways and how much for the dash pods?

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

Alright. I've decided to do my sound system after I'm done with my suspension. I've been doing lots of research on running active, and I'm looking for a resource on how to setup and tune an active speaker system.

I've signed up a DIY mobile audio, read everything at bcae. I still don't feel like I know enough. So can someone please help me to help me understand how all this works.

I'm have trouble visualizing how to set up a 4 channel amp for an active front setup. I understand that for example you would run the tweets off of lets say the front L&R channels, and run the mids off the back L&R. Do I run a splitter off the front output to the inputs of the amp?

I'm also having a hard time understanding time alignment with an active setup. I actually don't understand it at all. Where I'm having the most trouble is adjusting the time alignment. How do you adjust the time alignment?

Something tells me that a good EQ will do everything I need (ie: Zapco, or Audio Control) If an EQ is the one thing needed to, I'm still looking understand how everything works.

I'm fairly confident with all the reading I've done, I can do everything else.

Cliffs -
How do I connect amp(s)?
How do I adjust time alignment?

Thanks all

B5I8

iTrader: (1)

If you get the Zapco DSP6-SL, the manual explains how to do all those things. For a different processor it'll be different so there is no one way to do it. If you go to the Zapco website and download the manual for the DSP6 I'm sure you could understand what I mean a lot better. Here's the link to the DSP6, click the "DOWNLOAD PDF MANUAL" link at the bottom right.

Get_Zwole

iTrader: (34)

this link should help you a little with time alignment
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...alignment.html

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys.

One more thing. I've been looking for an inexpensive RTA solution for my computer. Any suggestions

Get_Zwole

iTrader: (34)

i havent found a good one for cheap either man. Ive looked as well. If you find one shoot me a link and ill do the same .

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

There is one for the iPhone, but from what I hear it's not worth getting

rtiid22

What type of Focal's are you running up front? When I first had my sound system installed I went with the 165VR and those where way too high pitched for me so within a week I returned them and got the k2p's.. couldn't be happier! High's are just where I like them, using the stock factory location.

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

165K2Pv2. I'm going to run active with these first, and move the tweeter around before I move to something else.

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

I was reading the instructions for the DSP6-SL. This system looks to be the way to go. I understand why Brick likes it so much.

I'm unclear on one thing. How do I go about setting up the front stage on the DSP6-SL? I understand that I run the HU front out to the 1/2 channel input. How do you set it so that the 1/2 and 3/4 out are going off the 1/2 in?. Setting up a sub seems easy with this. It's just setting up the front stage active is what I'm lost on.

I think this is the route I want to go

B5I8

iTrader: (1)

The DSP6 is very customizable in that you can configure the inputs and outputs however you want (using the software and a laptop). You could run one set of inputs 1/2 and output it to any channels you want or all six channels. You can also control everything via single channel or L/R at once. What I mean by that is if you wanted to you could output only channel 1 or only channel 2 to whatever output you choose. The same goes for x-over, EQ, and time alignment, you can change each channel independently or by pairs it's up to you. It's definitely a great piece of equipment to get whatever kind of sound you want. Just remember you'll have to use SymbiLink cables and adaptors.

ninor

iTrader: (5)

Did you guys try positioning your tweeters anywhere else before you installed them in the stock location? I bought same speakers and I'm having a HARD time trying to decide where to place them because anywhere I place them, I will have to drill a hole and make a permanent modification so I want it to be good from the first time around

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

No I have mine in the stock location. From my experiences it's a bad place. I was able to tune out some of the harshness with the EQ on my HU. With my level of competence I wont try to put my tweets in the a piller so I think I'll try to find some angled tweeter cups.

I have no doubt I can get these to sound as good as I want them. If not I guess I'll be saving for some Seas

ninor

iTrader: (5)

True. I'm considering between door pods for midbass and drilling a hole in kick panel for the tweeter (keeping the dead pedal) or getting a custom kick panel for both..... OR door pods and mount a tweeter in it's pod to a-pillar...

by the way, does TN52 tweeter come in a pod? I get mine tomorrow and I was just curious..

B5I8

iTrader: (1)

If you do end up going with Seas you're going to need to spend $$ for a good install and you'll need someone to tune the DSP6 to squeeze every last detail from those drivers .

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

http://www.madisound.com/index.php

Scan-Speak, Dynaudio, Morel, Peerless makes some good stuff.

Paul350Z

iTrader: (1)

I use TrueRTA http://www.trueaudio.com/rta_abt1.htm

I bought the $99 1/24th octave version more for setting my home theater and an auditorium that I supervise. For car use the lower versions are probably good enough. Buy the one that matches your equalizer which is likely the FREE! one octave (10 sliders) or $40 1/3 octave (30 or 33 sliders).

You'll also need a microphone to match. Normally you buy a lab microphone that's been calibrated but TrueRTA will calibrate yours for a price. I've got a GenRad model 1988 precision integrating sound level meter and analyzer with matching Omnical sound level calibrator. The thing is 20 years old but the microphone still calibrates just fine.

Here's a picture of some early testing.



And a screen capture as I'm working the crossover points. Note the dip between the subwoofer and the components in the mid-bass area.

16psibrick

iTrader: (10)

thought i'd chime in.

chi-town...

i agree wtih some of the stuff said above...looking at your system...and your budget and desire to improve SQ...my focus would be on:

A. improving locations for your speakers
B. adding a DSP with good tuning capbility
C. changing out spekares to be more of your preference

amps and subs. IMO, yo dont have terrible ones and they should be fine, but, you should add an amp to do your front stage justice. meaning, having a powerful amp to send as much power as resaonable to your midbass...at least 100 watts, i typically put 150-200 on my sq installs, and 50-100 watts to your tweeter, as it doesnt need nearly as much.

do that combination right, and get it tuned right, and you can a very nice sounding system for yourself.

i wouldnt worry too much about RTA, it sounds like you are relatively new to the true SQ world, and IMO an RTA at this tage would be a waste, hell i dont even have an RTA and use my ears for the most part.

what i suggest you do is, if you want to learn, to not read so much on diyma, sure, there are tons of good info on there, but htere are also a ton of contrasting opinions that may just make you more confused and unsure. i would try to go and listen to as many sq cars as possible to get an idea for yourself.

i can give you some solid recommendations on your budget if you want, just PM me.

cheers,

b

KShep

iTrader: (4)

+1 on the SEAS Lotus the Reference components. Install some Wicked CAS pods in the front to improve the staging and be done with it.