Notices
Audio & Video 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics

Run Speaker Wire: Alternatives to Molex and stock wiring

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:35 PM
  #1  
CanadianDream's Avatar
CanadianDream
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Default Run Speaker Wire: Alternatives to Molex and stock wiring

Hey guys, played around with the molex connector today - and just don't feel like drilling it out, etc. etc.

Anyone have pictures, ideas of how to run new speaker wire to the doors without using the molex or tapping into the stock wire.

I know there is that little black gromet, but for the life of me I can't get a coat hanger/wire through to the interior.

Ideas very welcome.

Thanks.
Reply
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 03:40 PM
  #2  
cdoxp800's Avatar
cdoxp800
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Default

Just drill the molex. It's not that hard. Makes for a clean install.
Attached Thumbnails Run Speaker Wire: Alternatives to Molex and stock wiring-molex_1.jpg   Run Speaker Wire: Alternatives to Molex and stock wiring-molex_2.jpg  
Reply
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #3  
16psibrick's Avatar
16psibrick
Sponsor
Simplicity in Sound
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,792
Likes: 1
From: san Jose, CA
Default

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanatic
I use the factory wiring that is all i do. There is rely nothing the factory wiring cant do that aftermarket wire can.The stock wire can handle the power. Just use your aftermarket adapter and behind the head unit tap into those wires and run them to the new amp. As for the tweeter you can run a new wire for that one.
unfortuantely i have to disagree wholeheartedly with this statement. As a rule i almost NEVER utilize stock speaker wiring to pass power when it is possible to route new wires into the new spekaer location.

mainly for two reaons, efficiency and safetey.

the stock speaker wire in the 350z for example...is around an 18 if not 20 gauge cable, if you are powering anyhting with say 75 to 100 or even more wattage through it, the efficiency will quickly go down the tubes as that thin of a cable simply cannot transport that much power efficiency, whcih means at the end of the day, you are not sending all the power you can to the particular speaker. resulting in, among other things, less dynamic headroom as the power wont be there when the speaker needs it.

the second reason i dont use stock wiring is that as a by product of the small guage wire passing more power, it generate heat rapidly. not only is this bad in the long run for the wire itself, the fact that its bundled in with all the other factory wiring, many of them extremely important, means that should you have the failure of this one est of wires due to heat, it will likely damage other, much more vital cabling. not a risk i want to take. Not saying it will happen 100 percent of the time, but i have seen enough times of somehting like this happening to not ever want to risk it.

you will never seen me reuse the factor speaker wire on a car that i can run new wires into.

back to the original topic. i agree if yo uwant to run wires into the door, just do it through the molex. the alternative method is no easier, involves more drilling and creates more of a chance of water leaking into the car. if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself, i would suggest finding someone who has done it before or a shop

cheers,

b

Last edited by 16psibrick; Aug 24, 2009 at 05:05 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #4  
16psibrick's Avatar
16psibrick
Sponsor
Simplicity in Sound
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,792
Likes: 1
From: san Jose, CA
Default

i know what you saying. but then again, i cant even remmeber the last time i put anyhting close to 60 watts on a front stage is

for me though, i am brought up on the school of throught that if there is any chance you make something more reliable and perform better during an install, and eliminate the chances of affecting the car in a negative way, you should do it
Reply
Old Aug 24, 2009 | 06:22 PM
  #5  
CanadianDream's Avatar
CanadianDream
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Default

Yea, the crossovers are in the door and I am bi-amping them so need to run 2 sets of wire anyways. I will take a look at the molex again...argghhh. Really though, that nice little rubber grommet is just screaming at me to use
Reply
Old Aug 25, 2009 | 07:26 AM
  #6  
BLK350GT's Avatar
BLK350GT
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte
Default

I drilled the out the molex a few weeks ago for my install and ran all new wire. But be carefull! I nicked a wire and shorted out my passenger side window. It took my dealer 4 hours to track down the short. One other note on drilling the molex. They come apart easy but getting them back together is a PITA. I had to take my doors off the car so that I could close the clamp. There simply was not room for the clamp to close correctly with the door on. Maybe it is just an issue with the 2006 model. My dealer said that they also need to remove the door on the 2006 to close the Molex clamps.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MicVelo
NorCal Marketplace
9
Oct 4, 2015 07:55 PM
nanotech
Exhaust
6
Oct 2, 2015 05:02 AM
Tochigi_236
Feedback & Suggestions for Our Forum
8
Sep 27, 2015 03:40 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:10 PM.