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viper 5901 installation question

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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #1  
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Default viper 5901 installation question

ok i'm installing a viper 5901 in my 03 Z. now i got wire diagrams from two different sources and there stating theres 5 wires in the ignition harness but my Z only has 4. The missing wire from the diagram compare to the actual harness is the second starter wire. Now the alarm requires a second stater connection. What should i do? Any thoughts on this.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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The alarm doesn't require a second starter wire, the car does. If the car doesn't have a second starter wire in the harness then obviously the car doesn't need one. Most Nissans, however, do have a 2nd starter wire and if it isn't connected the car won't start when it gets really cold outside.

If it isn't there, proceed on without connecting it and you won't have any issues related to the 2nd starter wire.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 02:03 AM
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This might help: (always test though)...good luck



| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white/blue |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|white/red |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND STARTER|white/green |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/red |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|white/black |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|red *1 |- |driver door module in door |
| POWER UNLOCK|lt. blue *1 |- |driver door module in door |
| LOCK MOTOR|purple | |wht plug, pin 30 @ BCM *2 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|yellow | |wht plug, pin 23 @ BCM *2 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|white/red | |wht plug, pin 31 @ BCM *2 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/blue | |driver kick panel |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/blk (L), red (R)|+ |wht 12 pin plug, IPDM E/R *3|
| DOOR TRIGGER|wht (L), pnk (R) *4 |- |wh plug, pin 14, 10 @ BCM *2|
| DOME SUPERVISION|comes on with unlock| | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red/white |- |wht plug, pin 18 @ BCM *2 |
| HOOD PIN|lt. green/black |- |pin switch under hood |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|pink *5 |- |brn plug, pin 76 @ BCM *2 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms with unlock | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|*1 | | |
| TACHOMETER|NOT black or wht/blu| |any ignition coil |
| SPEED SENSE|white |8 |*6 |
| BRAKE WIRE|pink/blue |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|green/black |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|purple(L),blu/blk(H)|+ |wiper motor |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|*7 | | |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RADIO 12V|yellow |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND| | | |
| RADIO SWITCH|lt. green |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|red/blue |+ |radio |
| POWER ANTENNA|grn/yel (amp remote)|+ |radio *8 |
| LF SPEAKER|blu/red - blk/wht | |radio |
| RF SPEAKER|yel/red - red/wht | |radio |
| LR SPEAKER|lt grn/red - blk/yel| |radio |
| RR SPEAKER|blu/org - blk/pnk | |radio |

Notes:
NOTE: This vehicle has an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed during remote start operation. *1 These are the driver door key cylinder wires. Meter the wires while turning the key in the driver door. Single pulse on the unlock wire will disarm the alarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. *2 The BCM (Body Control Module) is in driver kick panel below the fuse box. *3 The IPDM E/R (Intelligent Power Distribution Module Engine Room) is between the passenger fender and the battery. *4 Use both wires and diode isolate each. *5 The fuel door release is blue/red (-) at the switch on the dash. *6 The VSS wire is in pin 26, gray 16 pin plug, at the Unified Meter and A/C Amp behind the A/C controls in the center console. *7 Extended triggers on the power door lock wires will roll the windows up and down. *8 If equipped, the BOSE amplifier is on the driver side of the trunk.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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thank you guys...i'll try it out
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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make sure you go through the programming to get the tach setup. besides just tach learning you have to go into the programming mode to make sure it is setup right. i installed one of these on my tundra and it was a little tricky compared to the older alarms.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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i have another questions for you guys. the door trigger wire require a diode isolation.. how you do that
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Get the two diodes, solder a few inches of wire to each side of each diode and then connect the striped end of one diode to the drivers door lock wire and connect the striped end of the other diode to the passenger side door pin. Then, connect the non striped side of both diodes to each other and then to the door pin input of the alarm. Tape up all exposed parts of the diode with Scotch 33+ tape and you're done.
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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what direction i install the diode. i want to prevent flow to the alarm module or prevent flow the bcm
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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ok never mind the last post. i reread ur post and you go over that
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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i need help guys. i wired the defogger today and when testing it i started getting a malfunction with the hood pin and when i put the ignion on accessory the hazards and windshield wipers turn on while the switches for them are off ...any clue to whats going on
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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The first thing I would do is unhook the wiring you hooked up for the rear defroster and see if that fixes any/all of your problems.

When did the windshield wiper / hazard issue start? What bypass are you using for the remote start?
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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i did unhook the defogger wire but its still doing it.....i got the hazards to stop and narrowed it down to one cycle of the wipers...it does it when it wants to....80 percent of the time it does it but doesnt the other 20....it only happen when the alarm is disarmed
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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What kind of malfunction do you get with the hood pin?

What kind of bypass are you using for the alarm?
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:43 AM
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i'm not using a bypass..... when i arm the alarm it tells me the hood is open but its closed. i changed the alarm menu settings for the hood pin. the default is normally opened but the car wire diagram shows its normally closed so i change the alarm to normally closed. when i did that the hood pin doesnt work at all
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #15  
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The hood pin is normally open - it goes to ground when the hood is open. I thought you were doing a remote start because you were asking about the second starter wire - so no remote start?

When you disconnect the hood pin wire does the fault go away? Where and how did you tap in to the hood pin wire. As a general rule of thumb I always diode isolate if using the OEM hood pin.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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i'am doing a remote start. Just not up to that point yet. I tapped directly to the hood switch from the IPDM.

when i disconnect the hood pin the fault still happens
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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Did you set the hood pin back to NO? If it is set to NO and the hood pin wire isn't connected to anything you should not get a hood pin error. If you do, the alarm is damaged and will need to be swapped out.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 01:25 PM
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no with the alarm set to NO and the wire disconnected ares no error...its when its connected and set to NO it constantly says the hood is is open reguardless if the hood pin pressed or depressed
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Try cutting the OEM wire and connect the switch side directly to the alarm. What kind of voltage is on the wire at rest? That may be a 5vdc signal that may be causing issues. You may need to diode isolate to prevent the voltage of the IPDM from being read by the alarm.
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