Audio Noobness :P
#1
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Audio Noobness :P
First off let me start by saying I have read all the stickies and utilized the search function to the best of my abilities I did find 5 threads relevant to what I'm looking for, but still didnt answer my questions....
I think we can all agree that the stock Bose system in our cars is ****, as stated many times in this section of the forums. So naturally I would like to get a better sound quality/harder hitting bass/generally louder system in my car. However, performance of the car is my number one priority and weight is a huge factor to me. This means a sub is out of the question. From research dynamat also adds considerable weight to the car.
Obviously I'm going to need an amp to get anywhere close to my desired sound output, so we cant cut that out. I guess my questions can be summed up to how good of a system can I build with being extremely strict on weight gain? Sound quality along with better bass than factory and definitely louder is what I'm striving for.... not trying to win any sound competitions
Thanks, flame suit now on
Edit: By the way, think about the person you know who has zero knowledge about car audio. They know more about it than me Dont get me wrong though, I'm not asking for a handout on how I should build my system, I'll do that homework myself. I just want to know how to be as weight conscious as possible.
I think we can all agree that the stock Bose system in our cars is ****, as stated many times in this section of the forums. So naturally I would like to get a better sound quality/harder hitting bass/generally louder system in my car. However, performance of the car is my number one priority and weight is a huge factor to me. This means a sub is out of the question. From research dynamat also adds considerable weight to the car.
Obviously I'm going to need an amp to get anywhere close to my desired sound output, so we cant cut that out. I guess my questions can be summed up to how good of a system can I build with being extremely strict on weight gain? Sound quality along with better bass than factory and definitely louder is what I'm striving for.... not trying to win any sound competitions
Thanks, flame suit now on
Edit: By the way, think about the person you know who has zero knowledge about car audio. They know more about it than me Dont get me wrong though, I'm not asking for a handout on how I should build my system, I'll do that homework myself. I just want to know how to be as weight conscious as possible.
Last edited by Nismo_Obsession; 12-25-2010 at 10:21 AM.
#2
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I wouldn't rule out a sub because of weight/performance.
I autocross my car a lot (at least two days/month) and have discovered that the Z hooks up better with some weight over the rear tires. I run a single 10" sub with an MDF box between the rear speakers and the rear strut tower brace.
When I first started autocrossing about 5 years ago, I used to remove my spare and tools and run on fumes. (very little fuel.) Then one of the veteran Z drivers recommended that I leave the spare and stuff in and run no less than half a tank of gas. I was able to roll on the throttle earlier and bring my times down a bit almost from the first few runs after making the change.
I did opt for the lightest sub/amp combo I could live with though. I have a 10W6 BNIB in my garage but didn't want the added weight of the sub, larger amp, and heavier gauge power/ground cable to power a large amp.
Instead, I run an MTX 4 channel amp in 3 channel mode (60 X 2 and 120 X 1) with 8 gauge power cable and a JL 10WX woofer.
I autocross my car a lot (at least two days/month) and have discovered that the Z hooks up better with some weight over the rear tires. I run a single 10" sub with an MDF box between the rear speakers and the rear strut tower brace.
When I first started autocrossing about 5 years ago, I used to remove my spare and tools and run on fumes. (very little fuel.) Then one of the veteran Z drivers recommended that I leave the spare and stuff in and run no less than half a tank of gas. I was able to roll on the throttle earlier and bring my times down a bit almost from the first few runs after making the change.
I did opt for the lightest sub/amp combo I could live with though. I have a 10W6 BNIB in my garage but didn't want the added weight of the sub, larger amp, and heavier gauge power/ground cable to power a large amp.
Instead, I run an MTX 4 channel amp in 3 channel mode (60 X 2 and 120 X 1) with 8 gauge power cable and a JL 10WX woofer.
Last edited by Z1NONLY; 12-25-2010 at 10:31 AM.
#4
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You could get two component speakers for the front with some speaker pods for the mids and a two channel amplifier. That shouldn't be too heavy.. and remove the stock rear speakers and subwoofer.
#5
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I wouldn't rule out a sub because of weight/performance.
I autocross my car a lot (at least two days/month) and have discovered that the Z hooks up better with some weight over the rear tires. I run a single 10" sub with an MDF box between the rear speakers and the rear strut tower brace.
When I first started autocrossing about 5 years ago, I used to remove my spare and tools and run on fumes. (very little fuel.) Then one of the veteran Z drivers recommended that I leave the spare and stuff in and run no less than half a tank of gas. I was able to roll on the throttle earlier and bring my times down a bit almost from the first few runs after making the change.
I did opt for the lightest sub/amp combo I could live with though. I have a 10W6 BNIB in my garage but didn't want the added weight of the sub, larger amp, and heavier gauge power/ground cable to power a large amp.
Instead, I run an MTX 4 channel amp in 3 channel mode (60 X 2 and 120 X 1) with 8 gauge power cable and a JL 10WX woofer.
I autocross my car a lot (at least two days/month) and have discovered that the Z hooks up better with some weight over the rear tires. I run a single 10" sub with an MDF box between the rear speakers and the rear strut tower brace.
When I first started autocrossing about 5 years ago, I used to remove my spare and tools and run on fumes. (very little fuel.) Then one of the veteran Z drivers recommended that I leave the spare and stuff in and run no less than half a tank of gas. I was able to roll on the throttle earlier and bring my times down a bit almost from the first few runs after making the change.
I did opt for the lightest sub/amp combo I could live with though. I have a 10W6 BNIB in my garage but didn't want the added weight of the sub, larger amp, and heavier gauge power/ground cable to power a large amp.
Instead, I run an MTX 4 channel amp in 3 channel mode (60 X 2 and 120 X 1) with 8 gauge power cable and a JL 10WX woofer.
#6
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You will need a decent sized 4 channel amplifier. Power a set of nice components off of that. You can easily run a sub box/sub combo in the trunk area that can be completely removeable as well. Use the two channels from the 4-channel for the sub and you're good to go.
Quick disconnects make things nice and easy if you are taking the sub/box out of the car twice a month or more. Even a large 4-channel amp will weigh no more than about 12 lbs.
Quick disconnects make things nice and easy if you are taking the sub/box out of the car twice a month or more. Even a large 4-channel amp will weigh no more than about 12 lbs.
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