Similar situation here. Friend runs an audio shop and he mainly sells RF, Kicker & Orion - so I'm going with RF speakers and amps so that I can rep his business at some local shows & he's giving me the equipment at cost, letting me use his air conditioned shop to do some of my work, and helping me out in general.

I'm planning on two of the 12" T1/T2 subs. I'm also considering the possibility of two 8" midbass drivers as well, but not sure yet. I want to hear the performance of the 12's by themselves and see if they will suit all of my varied musical tastes. Considering the 6.5" T3 components for the kickpanel and a pillar for normal listening. I'm planning to have less expensive 3.5" left and right behind each headrest on a separate volume control specifically for top down, high speed listening (think headphones).

I drive 90% of the time with the top down, so that really factors into my plans. It sounds like you guys have some real experience, so any advice that you can give me, I'm all ears.

 

i really like your install. what kind of volts do you see at fult tilt? also where did you get your dual awg terminals?

 

i should have either had Nazar fab my pods in suede , or had Bing fab my kics in leather , instead of having them mis-matched

i foocked up

but i got them done at different times , yet that is not an excuse

yes we do have the same tastes so it does not surprise me

good stuff

side note the DD W6.5 mid bass drivers are really sick and handle GOBS of power without breaking a sweat, and the DD-A Germs 5.25 mid range drivers are very nice , digital design's line is top notch

 

full tilt is at 14 volts , when the lows get to 35 hertz and less the voltage drops to 13.5 volts

with the amount of 0 awg runs i have , plus the big 3, plus the 200 amp alt, plus the stinger sp series batteries, it does not spike up and down it rests steady , with the stereo playing at mid volume the voltage is 15 volts , and in the winter time here in Florida temps get to 60 degrees in the day time the voltage is even higher than 15

if you go to caraudioclassifieds.org you can find toolmaker , and toolmaker fabs anything you need connector wise out of aluminum or copper, his work is sick

 

i did not mean to discourage you in your thread, but my experience with verts has been , like i mentioned with the top down on the highway the faster you go the more sound you lose, meaning as someone suggested in your thread just turn it louder, well yes turn it louder and you beginning to introduce distortion

does not mean that you can't have a good system and have fun

i just wanted to make you aware of that before you start cutting up the car, and spending tons of money of equipment, and tons of time doing the work

if your car is automatic and has no clutch you can fit 8" mid bass drivers in the kick panels , just lose the foot rest, and i would have done that myself , but my car is manual


On RF as far as Components go i am gonna say get T5 series in 6.5" , the markup off MSRP is 50%

if not than get the T3 in 6.5"

get a head unit that is at least 4-6 volts out so you don't have to gain your amps as high

T2 subs are nice i used them in 2004-2006 i will throw some pics i would use at least 1.75 to 2 net cubes per 12" T2 sub, after sub and port displacement , if you can't devote that space then use T2 10", tune at 35 hertz for music

I don't like the idea of 3.5" speakers behind your head at all , but it is just my opinion and it is subjective so do what you like, i don't like sound stage coming to my ears from behind

make sure you do the big 3, make sure you use a ton of sound deadner, make sure you use 0 awg power & ground , if your using the factory alt fine i would upgrade your underhood battery



my 1996 impala with 2 each T2 15" @ 35 hertz off a T20001 BD , the drivers are sharing 2900 watts here at 1 ohm













my 1995 caddy deville





lastly on the RF amps try to see a 1 ohm final load , and the T2 drivers i think are rated at 1000 rms , i fed mine as much as double , but i would suggest using at least 1500 watts per sub, because in your set up with voltage drops and box rise you won't see 1500 watts and it will be closer to 1000

better to have more power on tap than less

 

Same here bro.... I bought the kics and pods at diff. Times
kics by bing and the pods i bought used from a member local... Its like it was Kent to be ... Lol ... He put them up for sale right after I pulled out all the metal and plastic ... And for $100 I can't complain lol ... He had bought them from nazar....

 

thanks for all the helpful info.

 

Ya I want me some of them, saw these when they first released them. more than I will spend on speakers tho......

 

Jackson.... Check out the HAT imagines of you don't want to spend much
There even going to release a lower priced true coaxial model I've heard nothing but great things about this imagines... That there better then ALOT of the more expensive components ....
Just a thought

 

Jackosn 0927 i would buy SEAS for that kind of money
BUT the sparkle city hop narrowed down to 3 manufactures

orion
kicker
RF

so RF > Orion & kicker

 

Seas are straight up badass!!! Lol

For that type of money I would deff look into seas.... But t5's 50% mark up!!!!! Omg!!! Dang that would be a pretty sweet deal to get it at cost lol

Still.... Jackson if you don't want to spend 500 for speakers .... I would deff look into the imagines.... Many ppl swear by them .... I cant wait to see if hat lives up to the hype

 

ya, you guys have got me wanting to re-do every part of my audio system.

do it right this time, but i gotta spend cheddar on the other parts of my car first,

think im going to start planning it out, and tear into it this winter or fall.

 

All righ so I got a chance to start laying the SecondSkin
Before:



After:





Still not done.... I'm going to try and finish it up tomorrow

What sux is that my passenger seat motor gave out so I can't move the seat foward and was to lazy to pull the seats out so I was crunched on the back awkward positioning for sure! Lol

 

takes only 5 minutes to pull the seat

don't let the quality of the work suffer due to being cramped with no space


pull the seat

hey are you wiping down the with alcohol before you roll that deadner on

 

Yeah I cleaned the whole back area before I started ... Hence the towel covering the subwoofer...... Man I was scrubbing and peeping for atleast 1hr ... Lol

But since the seat doesn't move foward or back .... Can I still take the seat out .... Meaning will I be able to reach the bolts?

Awkward positioning but it was nothing that Two fluffy pillows fixed lol

The rest is all flat so it's not hard at all.... Hardest part was the wheel welds I'll finish it up today and post pics .... Man I forgot how tidings this shii!!! Was ... Lol I was FKN sweating !! Lol

 

Travis the before pics were pics taken right after the work was done.... Lol now I see why you asked if I cleaned it.... It was dirty and dusty ... Lol

But yeah bro .... This pics are old .... There the same pics I used before lol

Thanks for looking out bro...

 

i guess i missed , but i see it now , you mentioning the seat is stuck & power

if you can not access the front & rear seat bolts , than it can't come out

my bad

you are gonna need to get that seat resolved

no biggie

keep moving foward

 

Lol... It's cool bro....

For sure I can't access the bolts on the rear of the seat .... But I'll figure something out...... I'll post some new pics after.... But man just on the one side I did ... You can tell a BIG diff in reduced road noise gf even noticed it! So I know it actually worked and it wasn't just in my head

 

not only does it reduce road noise
it rejects heat
before you started if you would have pounded on that metal it would have felt like a beer can , after you put down the deander solid like a tree trunk

 

Pick up a set of metric ratcheting wrenches that have swivel heads. One of the best tool investments that I've made. With the swivel head, you can get it into tight spots like that, and since they have the ratchet built in, it makes the job soooooo much easier.