Wiring diagram confirmation.
Alright- I need to know which of these wires will function as the line level "ins" to convert to RCA for a subwoofer amplifier (replacing the OEM sub). According to the manuals diagrams it should be White (+) and Orange (-). Here's a pic of the harness, just as a visual aid. >=o) If anyone can just confirm it for me I'd appreciate it.
Oh- '04 Touring, btw.
Oh- '04 Touring, btw.
Thanks for the offer. What part of Jersey? I have family in Glassboro.
Anyhow- it's all wired up and working fine. I just used a PAC line level converter and pulled the remote from the factory harness. I have to leave for work but there's a hiccup in the install. The SRQ box doesn't -quite- fit in the bracket behind the seat. There's about 1/4" of metal that needs to be trimmed. I just talked to them and they said that about 5% of the Z's they've sold that box to have had that issue. I'll put up some pics at zero dark thirty when I get it finished.
Anyhow- it's all wired up and working fine. I just used a PAC line level converter and pulled the remote from the factory harness. I have to leave for work but there's a hiccup in the install. The SRQ box doesn't -quite- fit in the bracket behind the seat. There's about 1/4" of metal that needs to be trimmed. I just talked to them and they said that about 5% of the Z's they've sold that box to have had that issue. I'll put up some pics at zero dark thirty when I get it finished.
Ok- for those of you out there who'd like to do the same thing, here's the rundown.
At the harness (preamp)
-Orange (-)
-White (+)
-Green/Yellow (remote)
All of them do what you need them to do to run an aftermarket amp/woofer.
Here's my $0.02.
This was the first audio work I've done in a car since 1999. I got my whole rig together for about $250. Spend more than me. I ran a Rockford Prime 10" in an SRQ Customs box with a Polk PA330 (which'll eventually run components). If I were doing it all again (and I will be in a few months) I'd have gone with something that can handle 2 ohms and around 400W. Be prepared to felt and cushion several areas. As soon as any significant bass starts popping out of that little crevice behind your seat there are going to be rattles and vibrations galore. It's -really- annoying. I've got a Touring and there are even rattles from the top/hatch when it's down. Apart from that there's not a-lot to share. It was all pretty straight forward and I'm overall glad to have done it. It's a serious improvement, even if it wasn't quite what I had expected.
At the harness (preamp)
-Orange (-)
-White (+)
-Green/Yellow (remote)
All of them do what you need them to do to run an aftermarket amp/woofer.
Here's my $0.02.
This was the first audio work I've done in a car since 1999. I got my whole rig together for about $250. Spend more than me. I ran a Rockford Prime 10" in an SRQ Customs box with a Polk PA330 (which'll eventually run components). If I were doing it all again (and I will be in a few months) I'd have gone with something that can handle 2 ohms and around 400W. Be prepared to felt and cushion several areas. As soon as any significant bass starts popping out of that little crevice behind your seat there are going to be rattles and vibrations galore. It's -really- annoying. I've got a Touring and there are even rattles from the top/hatch when it's down. Apart from that there's not a-lot to share. It was all pretty straight forward and I'm overall glad to have done it. It's a serious improvement, even if it wasn't quite what I had expected.
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