Component speaker and sub on one amp?
Hey guys can you run alpine component type r speakers and a 10in type r sub(swr1022 dual voice coil) off a mono alpine mpr1000 amp? If not what's a good recommended amp to run the two speakers and sub?
The speakers are rms 220 per set each side 110 and the sub is 250-500 watt rms (250 watts per coil)
Any help is greatly appreciated
The speakers are rms 220 per set each side 110 and the sub is 250-500 watt rms (250 watts per coil)
Any help is greatly appreciated
5 channel gives you a dedicated sub channel with a higher output, as well as usually being able to run at a lower resistance. Many bridgeable amps I've seen are only stable at 4 ohms when bridged (though not all I think).
I'm with him, I would run 2 amps.
I'm with him, I would run 2 amps.
Go with any good reputable brand. I've always loved jl audio amps but that's just me. Look into sound ordinance from crutchfield they're real inexpensive and I've heard really good things about them.
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I cant give you a review yet because I haven't installed it but I am doing pretty much the same thing. I am powering the systems with a PPI P900.4 JBL components up front and a 10" RE Sub in the rear. Itll be another month before a have it all installed but from what I read it made since to go with the amp.
I would never try and run all of that off of a mono amp either.
But power wise you might be good to go with the same option I did. Take your RMS power multiply it by 2 +/1 20% and that is the power range amp you should look for per channel. Should be plenty of power for the sub as well without blowing your components and its at a nice price point as well.
I would never try and run all of that off of a mono amp either.
But power wise you might be good to go with the same option I did. Take your RMS power multiply it by 2 +/1 20% and that is the power range amp you should look for per channel. Should be plenty of power for the sub as well without blowing your components and its at a nice price point as well.
A five channel is great because you can:
1. Bridge the channels to power the fronts if you ever need more power down the road (upgrade)
2. Run rear speakers if you ever decide to add them (ew)
3. Switch to active!
Sirmichael's post was a bit weird though. You never said you wanted to try and run them off a mono amp, though you could just connect everything to one high watt channel and let it explode from everything trying to play all the frequencies. That along with his "mr. wizard" formula for RMS that I couldnt understand. Just match the power ratings. Its that simple. You have Type-Rs that take 110w rms or something, find an amp that puts out 110w RMS per channel. You can obviously go a lot less, or a bit more (probably up to 150, however the tweeters will fry, crossovers on Type-Rs seem to suck) but sticking with factory recommended is usually a way to make it easy.
If you're okay with used check out this one. Kind of a weak sub channel (which is the case with many of them, making 2 separate amps appealing) but its really small.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...amplifier.html
1. Bridge the channels to power the fronts if you ever need more power down the road (upgrade)
2. Run rear speakers if you ever decide to add them (ew)
3. Switch to active!
Sirmichael's post was a bit weird though. You never said you wanted to try and run them off a mono amp, though you could just connect everything to one high watt channel and let it explode from everything trying to play all the frequencies. That along with his "mr. wizard" formula for RMS that I couldnt understand. Just match the power ratings. Its that simple. You have Type-Rs that take 110w rms or something, find an amp that puts out 110w RMS per channel. You can obviously go a lot less, or a bit more (probably up to 150, however the tweeters will fry, crossovers on Type-Rs seem to suck) but sticking with factory recommended is usually a way to make it easy.
If you're okay with used check out this one. Kind of a weak sub channel (which is the case with many of them, making 2 separate amps appealing) but its really small.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...amplifier.html
This is how I roll. Bridge mono rear channel, stereo front channel... built in crossover splits the signal. Forget the rear speakers they just drag the sound stage backwards. I'm running a Kicker IX 500.4, its small enough to fit under the passenger side storage compartment. I honestly recommend the 4 channel route in most vehicles as good, basic system. If you really want the rears powered run them off the head unit, 10-20 watts is fine for rear fill on a set of co-axials anyway. The audio system in my other ride (Dodge Quad Cab) is that way.
this might be an outdated response, but do you know if the jl 300/4 has this ability? it is what i had planned to do, i assumed all amps had this capability. the guy i talked to was an installer at my local shop and he didnt even know if it had the capability, as he told me it would need high and low frequency settings for different speakers/sub, which i didnt even think about. i thought the crossovers would control that but it only makes sense the amp would as well. sad thing is they are jl authorized and he didnt know smh.
Last edited by knillsoccer13; May 21, 2013 at 07:56 PM.
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