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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 11:19 PM
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Default Any good audio kits?

Looking to swap out the audio. Something with a balance of quality and loudness, preferably something that has good bass without having to put a couple tens in the trunk space.

Any ideas?
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 04:58 AM
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Here's an idea - search the Audio forum and get some ideas there.
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 05:25 AM
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Ask the Unix gods!
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 05:29 AM
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I had a decent setup with a single sealed 12. But the sub finally wore out after a few years of abuse. So I switched it up to a couple ported 10's.

But now I'm thinking about rebuilding again.
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 07:25 AM
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Cheapest component speakers. Cheapest 2-channel amp to run them. Cheapest shallow-mount 10-12" sub in a custom sized box, cheapest amp to run that. Looking for less than $300 for everything
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 07:59 AM
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I got my new set-up from Sears scratch-and-dent.
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 11:40 AM
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Crutchfield.com anything you can afford will probably be an improvement. Stock bose stereo is pretty bad. However you must remove and replace everything or you will be running new speakers off the factory amp. Etc etc etc do your research and have fun with the front door speakers.
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 12:28 PM
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Boss Class D amp from Amazon...like $60

Infinity 10" sub...about $60

Build your own box, sealed, I did it...do it right, worth it. $40 in supplies, a fun project for the weekend if you have jigsaw, glue, nails, hammer (or nail gun), and sealer for the interior box seams (sorry...I forget what it's called right now), phillips screw driver...that's about it.

Leaves you with 140

Just do the front speakers, leave the rears in, personally I'd buy used to get much more bang for my buck, as the front stage is the most important - but bottom line here is you have to do your own listening and buy according to your preference.

For a two or four channel amp again look at Amazon and read the reviews...you'll be able to find one for around $60 I bet, 300W or so...the reviews tell you everything you need, that and the specs. Buying used amps on ebay can be safe as well, many audiophiles do that, but there's probably no need...Amazon is your safest bet with a return policy and warranty also.

Head unit wise same thing...and if you can't do it all at once, buy what you can afford now and don't scrimp..then add another component or two when you can.

Hope this helps,

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Last edited by savedbygrace; Jul 1, 2015 at 12:39 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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And "cheapest component speakers" is a bad way to shop no offense.

Some component speakers sound worse than less expensive speakers, especially when they're underpowered by unclean power. Every variable matters, but none of it is rocket science.

Look up Hertz component speakers when you want to have one of the best sounding systems out there, HSK 165, HSK 165XL, MLK series, etc.. ($400, $520 to $1000 a pair though)

Give them 100W per channel and you'll hug me if you ever met me.

Just buy whatever speakers sound good to you, component or not.

JBL GX602 are about $80 a pair, a lot of good feedback on them, and I've heard them personally, they're good, not Hertz by any means, but they're good, just realize they're 3ohm speakers...which is odd but not a problem.

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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 01:22 PM
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I'm running one Infinity 8" and its enough. The Z is pretty small and I'm getting kind of old so mega loudness isn't that important. I've got Infinity Reference components upfront plus a 500 watt Kicker amp. My sub is behind the driver's seat in a sealed, angled truck box attached to the factory sub mounting plate firing thru the factory grill. I did my whole system for under $1k including an Alpine head unit plus Imprint DSP processor along with all wiring and some sound proofing.
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 04:03 PM
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http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...s&pageNumber=2


Here's the sub
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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Amazon.com: Boss Audio R1100M - 1100 Watt, Monoblock, Class A/B, MOSFET Amplifier With Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Car Electronics Amazon.com: Boss Audio R1100M - 1100 Watt, Monoblock, Class A/B, MOSFET Amplifier With Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Car Electronics

$48 for the sub amp...almost five star reviews for over 1000 people
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 04:23 AM
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Subscribed. Thanks for the info gents.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by savedbygrace
$48 for the sub amp...almost five star reviews for over 1000 people
As long as you understand that its really a 250 watt amp (at best) then your are OK. Given the fuse size it can't do anything near its rating. So calling it a 1100 watt amp is kind of a joke.

Read this: http://www.mobileedgeonline.com/mobi...-2-amplifiers/

I've gotten to the point where I only buy Class D amps based on their CEA-2006 ratings, having a birth sheet or certified power sheet is nice too.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JMII
I'm running one Infinity 8" and its enough. The Z is pretty small and I'm getting kind of old so mega loudness isn't that important. I've got Infinity Reference components upfront plus a 500 watt Kicker amp. My sub is behind the driver's seat in a sealed, angled truck box attached to the factory sub mounting plate firing thru the factory grill. I did my whole system for under $1k including an Alpine head unit plus Imprint DSP processor along with all wiring and some sound proofing.
Any build pics of your build? I would like to know a little more about it. How well is that 8" doing in your car? I have a jl 8" in my truck, and while i like it, I feel it could use a bit more. Im thinking yours is decent tho, considering it fires on your back.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JMII
As long as you understand that its really a 250 watt amp (at best) then your are OK. Given the fuse size it can't do anything near its rating. So calling it a 1100 watt amp is kind of a joke.

Read this: http://www.mobileedgeonline.com/mobi...-2-amplifiers/

I've gotten to the point where I only buy Class D amps based on their CEA-2006 ratings, having a birth sheet or certified power sheet is nice too.
Talk to pro sq guys....all amps give you about 25-33% of their rating after all variables of resistance are factored in. Clean power is what is key, and this amp delivers. Ask me how I know

No need to overspend for a $300 audio build.

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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 08:46 AM
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I run a single 8 inch rockford in a custom sealed box that fits under the strut bar in the back. It provides more then I need in the low end department. I would imagine putting a box in the factory subwoofer location would not sound as good but freeze up more usable space. in my case my amp sits in the cubby behind my seat. the subwoofer needs air to push around in order to do its job so muffling it right behind a seat will hinder its performance why in regular cab truck its so hard to get good bass from small subwoofers.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by savedbygrace
Im liking this sub, but I need it to fit in the stock location, as I have a roadster. Im finding that space is really key in that car!
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 08:52 AM
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That thing would need a massive amount of power. You will also need free air sub if you just want to mount it in the factory spot.

Last edited by dboyzalter; Jul 2, 2015 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 10:31 PM
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That sub does not need a ton of power....???....read the reviews....it works well with all types of amp amounts driving it....I'm using it with a $50 sub and it's an impressive bang for your buck musical sub.

Roadster wise....hmmm...that is tougher, as you'd have to make your own box (which is no big deal), but...the fitment into that space would be tougher to accomplish as the Infiniti wants about .75cu space....that's more than you might think when you're building it out of .75in MDF...doable, but will take a little digging around audio forums to find out how best to do that and get it to set back there in the stock sub location
with stability. If you're up to fiberglassing, that's another option, but a lot of work.

Post some asks for help in the diymobileaudio.com forums, or caraudio.com forums, that crowd could probably steer you pretty straight in sub selection for that location, and of course advise you effectively on all things audio.

If this helps....remember you can get a sub box made to fit the corner of your trunk....takes up only a bit of trunk space and sounds good from everything I've heard. If you can make your own great...fiberglass..but otherwise a bit expensive to have one done. You can also go semi-ghetto gettirdone style, which isn't the end of the world, and just build a box to house your sub and keep it loose in the trunk, removing it when you have to do the big grocery run. That's really the only cheap way I see working, and is what I'd do personally to keep it on budget and still give great sound. I don't use my trunk much at all really, but that's just me.

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Last edited by savedbygrace; Jul 2, 2015 at 10:42 PM.
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