matholland618

Hey guys! I purchased some Alpine type s components for my 03 350z. I have the bose system in my Z. I have a 5 channel amp that is mounted in my glovebox. I have it powering my front door speakers and going to run it to my rear speakers as well. With the 5th channel its going to deliver 600w rms @ 2ohms. I have been trying to decide what route I want to take.

I really hate to get the of that space under the rear bar and put a box there because there has been a few times already that I am putting a box or something in my car and the only way it will fit is through the front, under the bar and to the back. I'm afraid I will miss this space if I throw a box there, but it seems to be the best option cost wise.

The other delima that I am having is if I go with that style box, I'm looking at either 1 alpine type s 10, or 2 cheaper 10's (like the planet audio 10s off amazon). I know planet audio subs will not take the watts they claim, which would be fine. It seems that they handle 300-400 rms per sub with ease. The type s weighs 14lbs, the planet audios weigh 7lbs a piece.

My question, is I'm assuming that 2 of those would be louder than 1 10 because of the surface area. Those of you that only have 1 10, how does it actually sound? I want some decent bass, but for this car, I don't want to buy anything all that expensive.

I know that I had an old type r in my crew cab truck in a small box, and it was disappointing....the sub came in the truck and was a very old sub, so that was part of it, and the box was tiny, so there wasn't a lot of airspace. Probably equivilant as to what would be in the factory sub position...So I think for sound purposes, and cost, the one for under the bar will be the best route.

If 1 10 actually sounds good, the boxes that go in the place of a factory sub, how is the rattle and what not with it in there? Where do you buy one of those boxes at, at a reasonable price and not 200-300 bucks?

Thoughts, suggestions?

drozzy

Congrats on wanting to upgrade from OEM.

A couple questions across the board...

-What exact amp is this 5-channel? 600w rms @ 2 ohm leads me to believe you either have the gains all the way down or you'll be killing those Type S's via overheated voice coils if A) your amp makes that much power and B) those gains are not adjusted according to what your head unit's preouts put out. I'd be careful.

-Out of curiosity, why are you keeping the rear speakers in a coupe/hatch? Great quality, properly amplified components up front are all you need for every day listening purposes. Music is recorded in stereo - I can understand the techno/rave angle of having music blasting like you're in an underground rave place but it's not my thing - guitar and kick drum is.

It probably is. Consider a protective grille over your sub if a lot of stuff will be bouncing around down there. Going with the factory location and any decent sub would require very thorough, meticulous deadening in that area IMO.

Again, need to see the amp specs to see what we're dealing with here. It would also be helpful to know what you consider to be the weakest link in your system as far as the bass portion of the signal is concerned (HU vs. amp vs. projected quality of your sub). Do you have a firm budget for that sub / pair of subs or can you wait a bit?

If you're just looking to be done with the system by getting sub(s) and not necessarily planning to have consistent quality within your system that's fine too, just need to know A) budget for sub(s) including enclosure (DIY or $), and B) exactly how much net volume you're working with (which requires going around with a measuring tape and multiplying a few numbers).

Surface area X max 1-way extension of a given sub = its output potential, if properly powered, in a SEALED enclosure. Lots of parameters factor in when you want to go ported, and I don't believe you've indicated whether you want to go sealed or ported.

I'm running a single 12 that is "tighter" than most 10 inch setups (single or dual) out there. One can also make a dynamic 15" driver sound a lot better than a pair of underpowered/starved 10" middle of the line drivers. Myths, I tell you.

Hopefully it wasn't small AND ported, which produces nightmarish dynamic response in general and is very peaky around the tuned freq of the enclosure. Small sealed is actually ok for any generation of the Type R sub, and powering it properly with a clean signal is a huge part of the game.

matholland618

Sorry, I didn't explain that well. 600w RMS is what it will be delivering on the 5th channel (the sub channel). The amp delivers 50w rms @ 4ohms to the component type s's.

This is my first 2 seater car, so maybe I will just disconnect them.


The amp is a Rockville RXH-F5 paired with a pioneer head unit. It's CEA rating is 300w rms @ 4 ohms on the 5th channel, and 600rms @ 2 ohms.

I'd like to spend no more than 250 on box and sub/subs...This isn't a car that I believe I will keep for a super long time, but while I'm driving it, I do want some bass. I've been around quite a bit of audio stuff over the years, but I've always had more space to work with and what not.



I'd like to stick with a sealed enclosure to keep tight bass given what it is going in.

Nope, it was a sealed enclosure as well...It was just a super old sub that was on it's last leg.

drozzy

Wait a second, are you saying you have the ability to send a signal @ 2 ohm on the 5th channel whilst leaving the other four down to 4 ohm? I'm not familiar with the amp, some large board amps don't allow for different impedence between channels i.e. you bridge it down to 2 ohm and every channel is down to that impedence. If it's kind of two boards in one casing allowing you to do that, then great. If not, you're looking at a final load of 4 ohm for your sub(s) (bearing voice coil configs in mind) and less power, obviously.

Look up woofersetc.com for low prices on quality gear, I was a satisfied customer many a times using their online warehouse.

So, small sealed and low-ish budget considering a box is part of the budget... my guess is your sub will be in the $99 range (your budget minus enclosure & shipping/tax/whatever on the sub). Power rating TBD depending on impedence, 300 to 600 as a ballpark. Off the top of my head from back 7-8 years ago that's Kicker CompVR10, Alpine Type S 10", Image Dynamics ID10, JBL Power series 10" etc territory. You'd have to look up the exact ones available today.

matholland618

The different ohms is a good point, and wasn't aware of. I just kind of assumed. I typically run 2 different amps (monoblock for the sub) and a 4 channel for the fronts/rears. I had stumbled across this amp and thought it was pretty neat and figured I'd give it a go. It's a cheaper amp, but has 2 60amp fuses, and came with a birthsheet. Figured I'd give it a shot.

I could run it in 4 channel mode and wire the 2 door speakers and bridge channel 1 and 2 to make a 2ohm resistance then wire the subs for 2 ohms.

Yeah the type s 10 is 89 bucks off amazon 500rms 1000w max, which would be perfect. 2 of them would be over what I want to spend on the setup, unless I went with say the planet audio 10 route, which is 40 a piece and I believe that it would handle the watts just fine and have 2 10s rather than 1 10...
opinion?

drozzy

Assuming your amp is like most large board amps, yes a Type S would be great. What kind of voltage does your Pioneer put out on its preouts? 2 or 4V? Really hard to find 5V+ these days.

I would personally go with a single Type S given your limited options (dual 2 ohm, in series) and be happy with a higher build quality sub vs. having a pair of sloppier subs that don't quite produce the same low end extension as an Alpine product (type E aside). I know the pair sounds tempting but you then have two inefficient-ish motors to push instead of one. Efficient would be ported, and it's not in the discussion here.

matholland618

4v preout.

I just placed an order for a single 10 box and an alpine type s. hopefully it'll sound pretty decent!