foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

I was looking into getting a 350Z Touring in the VERY early spring because I love leather, it has the bose stereo and navi option. Then, after talking to many people on this site I came to the conclusion that I could get a custom stereo with Navi and custom leather for cheaper than the difference between the Touring and Performance models. This would also take about $5,000 off the financing making my payments lower. I am putting together a stereo so that I can have it ready for when I get the Z and put it in. I am very good with mods and stereo stuff and mechanical stuff(dad is a mechanic) so there is no trouble installing it, I just need opinions.

I want to keep everything in stock locations, including the sub where the stock one would be.

The things I am SURE on are as follows:

Kenwood DDX-7015 deck
Kenwood KNA-DV 4100 Navigation

I have heard of a lot of people putting this setup in their car:

JL Audio 10w6v2 sub
PG x400.1 Mono Amp(for sub)
Infinity Kappa 62.5i(back)
Infinity Kappa 6.1(front)

I was wondering would this be a good way to go? I know JL and PG are good companies but how good is infinity? And what amp should I use to run the infinity components and speakers?

What I want out of this stereo is the back 6.5" speakers and the front component systems to be very VERY clear. I want the sub to produce a decent amount of bass. I am used to a lot lol.

I have also heard(from a local shop near me) that diamond Audio has some of the best stuff for as far as clarity. Is this true. I don't really have a budget I believe you get what you pay for and am not afraid to wait a little bit longer to save up if I know I am getting quality stuff. Not rediculous though. I have seen amps that cost thousands upon thousands and come in a cherry wood box lined with velvet....taaaaad too much lol.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:

dannichols

Did you mention an amp for the 6.5's? Who's doing the installation, you?
Looks good, you're lucky not to be on a budget ;-) Don't expect too much from the rear 6.5's their placement IMO is terrible.

foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure what amp to use for the 6.5s. Someone suggested a JL 300/4. That sound good? 75watts/4. And when you say not to expect much from the rears...do you mean because the Infinity are junk? or because they are positioned right behind the seat and they aren't in a great place? If you know of a better one to put back there, by all means, let me know.

And it's not that I am not on a budget, it is just that I don't need the stuff NOW. I will save up as long as I need to to get something that will perform and last. If I have to wait another 3 months to save up the difference in price then I will. I hate buying things and then having them not last or be crappy.

zland

Rethink sub location for optimal performance. Do a search with sub enclosure and zland and you can see an option a selected.

foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

Why is is that bad being in the stock location? I want it to look clean. I read most of that thread and I saw that he doesn't guarentee any sub working well unless it is an Image Dynamics sub. I am also a big symetrical fan lol. If I got one like that I would have to the get another one for the other side to make it "balance out". But I saw that there were issues because of the tools. Is it really that big of a difference in the stock location? And woulnd't the sub being back there cause rattles or noises on the outside, like things rattling?

dannichols

I've only tried the sub in two locations, under the strut brace in fiberglass and in the tire well with f/g and MDF. They both worked very well but I prefer the tire well. They all produce rattles, some can be minimalized, but it sounds worse outside the car than inside. I never saw the logic to putting the sub box in the stock location but I may be wrong. Yes it is stealth, but it will be firing either into your back or up inside the cavity..which will likely produce its own rattles too. I don't think there is adequate room in the rear corner for the sub you mentioned. Rattles and good bass quality don't seem to be mutually exclusive.

dannichols

Regarding rear 6.5s, I was referring to the location. I keep them at a minimal level to help balance out the sound..anything louder gets on my nerves. So in hindsight I think the right approach is some decent coaxials in there and a really nice set of component speakers up front. And a 12" sub to round it all out ;-)

foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

I used to do these elaborate and expensive stereo setups in the past. Now I just want something good not ear shattering. I was going to get a touring and just leave the bose system in there but I have not heard one good thing about it. I don't mind the sub in my back it is not like it is going to be THAT loud. It's not going to feel like I vibrating chair or anything. And I like the trunk, the way it looks stock. I don't want to be throwing a bunch of stuff back there and messing it all up. I just want it to LOOK like it does stock but sound really nice.

dannichols

You mentioned a 10W6v2...if bass sound level and quality isn't a major concern why spend money on something that was meant for those qualities? Mt point being, a $100 will also sound good, especially if it is going to be hidden in a cubby hole.

foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

Don't get me wrong I want some bass. Just not over the top like I used to go with 2 2000watt 15" subs that fill the entire trunk. I don't see how mounting the sub in the sub opening in the middle of the car be that much worse than a few feet back in the trunk.

foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I think I am finally starting to narrow it down. I have one for sure model. I will get a Diamond Audio TDX 10" or 12" because it is hear dto be VERY clear and reliable due to its design. This is rated at 1000 watts RMS. I was wondering, what would be a good amp to run with this sub? a 1000 watt amp or 500 watt? I was going to go with a 500 watt amp but I don't want to under power it.

Also, which would you think would sounds better, crisper...the 10" or the 12"? I want it to be loud but not loud to the point where I break the rear view(my eclipse lol). I do want it to be a quick and hard hit, no flubbing. I want to feel it hit. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

dannichols

Fooch, there is a huge difference in where you mount it. Take it from someone that tried mounting in 3 different spots. One major concern is rattles. Mounting below the strut bar caused all sorts of rattles in the upper hatch/window area. Mounting in the stock caused rattles in the entire mid section. Another thing to consider is open space to allow the low freq to develop. There just isn't much in the stock opening, your driver's seat is in the way.

foochdawg

iTrader: (1)

What rattles? If you tear the interior out and lie down dynamat would that solve it? I don't want to spent a lot of money and put a lot of weight in making a flashing stereo because that is what I will do if I stick it in the trunk. I don';t like having a square sitting back there. Everything has to look nice and clean. I don't know where else to put it. Why is the stock one there then? And if I turn it around, then you will see it when you open the trunk and I will have to buy a second one for the other side lol. I like symetrical things.

dannichols

I hear ya Fooch, I don't mean to sound argumentative. I just remember all the work and the discouragement I felt when it didn't sound right to me. I spent $100 on fiberglass for a custom box and $500 for a custom-made strut box and ended up selling both. In the end, anything you do will be an improvement over what came with the car, and it's all what sound you want and what look you are looking for that's important.

The rattles I was referring to come from metalwork and plastic panels in the vacinity of the sub or the vacinity of where the sound waves travel. Yeah Extreme Dmat helped a lot, I would say got rid of 80%..but there are some areas that are extremely hard to quiet..like up inside the mid-section where all the plastic pieces mount to the aft-seat hump..or around the strut bar, the upper portions of the hatch, and deep inside the rear bumper. I used thin pieces of rattle-stop pad and some bits of dynamat in many spots but it took a lot of time and painstaking effort. Personally if you want to keep it simple and relatively low cost I would suggest an e-bay under strut box as discussed in other threads. If you like symetrical, go for a dual 10" setup with your amps in the OEM sub location. If you want more trunk space, you can mount it in the far aft left side with a custom FG enclosure. Or if you are crazy like me you can build a box for the tirewell and cut a hole in your carpet.

eddiesbu

I too want to go the same route, I was lookking into the kenwood 7015, Alpine r's in the front and basslink in the stock location with alot of dynamat, i have been looking for awhle since I do not receive my roadster till feb. and I heard from alot af people who did not want a ear blowing sound but a nice set up for a nice price that this is a good route