oops - picture of Hliner

 

What do you think the total added weight will be?

 

zblime,

Sounds very cool. I guess no one has instructions on removing the panels then?

 

Interesting idea. I never really considered the Z a loud car. The only noise that bothers me is the rattling of road debris in the wheel well. Somebody complained about this a while ago, and at the time, I thought they were being excessively picky, but now that I'm driving on salted roads, it's pretty apparent. I don't think this would help that though.

 

I expect the total weight to be added for the hatch, doors and hood will be about 110 pounds

I purchased 70 sq ft of Brown Bread at 0.4 lbs / sq ft, 40 sq ft of L-Comp at 1 lb / sq ft.

The H-Liner will be about 6 pounds

 

Sopranos:

PM me your email address and I will send panel removal instructions

Rod

 

110lbs. Im sure it sounds great, but 110 lbs on and already heavy car....count me out.

(nice job though )

 

did you cut the pieces to be that small / narrow or is that how the roll came? I am looking at all the brands out there now and I would prefer one that is wider and will allow bigger single sheets to be used VS alot of smaller overlapping sheets.

 

sorry, but I have been very busy at work this week and unable to check the site ---

I cut the pieces that small. the roll is about 70 sq ft, about 2 feet wide and 35 ft long

smaller pieces are much easier to work with

 

How much of the brown bread is required to do just the trunk area?

 

I may have missed something but what do you do if you have a flat? How do you get to the spare?

 

The spare sits ontop the the ring shaped thing in pic 11. Then the trunk floor is over that.

 

where did you buy your stuff...

the l-comp on b-quiet's site is too expensive for me... any cheaper alternatives out there?

 

looking nice so far....

 

Wonder if this guy ever finished. Check the date on these posts.

yes there are cheaper alternatives out there now. Check out secondskinaudio.com as well as edesignaudio.com now has an l-comp type product.

 

I did alot of this on my 300ZX TT, but it had a real problem with road noise. my 350Z doesn't have enough noise to worry about it IMO.

 

Looks good. Can you add any to how much quieter it seems at this point besides the comment on the vol. setting on the HU?
I noticed you put the l-comp on the panels rather than on top of the b-bead. I've been wondering what to do myself. Sure is much easier this way because you only have to cutout a big piece the shape of the carpet and then replace the factory padding with better stuff on the panels. There probably isn't room to do it the "other way" and get all of the panels back on right?
Good luck on the rest of it. The only thing I have done so far is the doors and you will have to probably do it the same way you've done the trunk by putting the l-comp directly to the back of the door panel. I tried to put two coats of liquid deaener on, one thick sheet of 1/2" carpet padding on the door and an 1/8" sheet of neoprene on then put the panel back on. Not enough room becase there are many large styrofoam pieces on the back of the door panel that touch the door metal. By the time you start trimming it all away you would get better coverage just putting it on the door panel in pieces. I ended up with the deadener and the neoprene and still had to cutout some pieces to clear. I'll probably go back and re-do it once I get the rest of the car done. The doors are already pretty quiet compared to the rest of the car but I had the doors apart at the time. It did improve the mid-bass but can't tell if it is any quieter with respect to road noise. The rest of the car will be much more sensitive to treatment I think.

 

Good point but we can still talk about it Maybe he will have finished and give us some advice.

+1
Too much weight IMO too. And looks very expensive. Liquid deadener seems cheaper and lighter. I'm not doing the exact same thing but covering 100% with mat is heavy.

 

Check out Raamaudio, or Raammat. For noise reduction they have ensolite products (closed Cell neoprene). This is flexible enough to strech and glue, it wil provide significant noies reduction. If you're really cheap, you can use juut (basically the stuff under carpet in your home). However, this can capture moisture and grow mold. So if your car gets out in the rain/snow think about it first. Not a guarantee that it will happen, but you better keep and eye on it if you go that route.
If you're going to use deadener products like dynamat, I would recommend going with a buytl based product rather than an asphalt product. butyl costs a little more, but is much better. If you'd rather be cheap here as well, go to Home Depot and pick up roof sealer (Peal & Seal), which is essentially the same as any asphalt based product. The only difference is the heat tolerance of peal and seal. If it gets too warm it can begin to melt and run. It can save a bunch of money though.
The doors will produce the best initial results, with the trunk second. In the trunk you don't need to cover everything, just panels that resonate.
If you're having issues with panels ratteling, check out second skin audio, they have a "rattle pad" material that you can place between the metal and plastic trim.
I've done all of these things to reduce resonance, eliminate rattles, and reduce the ambient noise level. IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE!

 

When you say the panels that resonate, what do you mean? I want to do my doors and part of my trunk over the spring. I was thinking the doors to do the entire interior shell and for the trunk to just do the floor. I dont think the strut bar resonates since its not long or wide enough.