autocross alignment setups
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From: cincinnati
autocross alignment setups
I am now running 265/35/18 R1's for autox, this is the first time taking temps, let me know what you guys think. What are some of the alignments you guys are using for the track and autox. I am going to get a set of eibach camber/toe kit for the rear, just want to have a base setting so when I get it aligned. Don't know the exact alignment numbers on there now. Here are my temps.
100 100 100 --------------- 100 102 108
104 103 102 ------------- 103 104 105
107 106 106 --------------- 103 104 105
111 110 107 --------------- 112 114 116
109 109 107 --------------- 114 115 117
96 99 103 ---------------- 101 102 101
97 100 104 ---------------- 103 104 105
101 102 109 ---------------- 106 108 110
101 103 107 ---------------- 104 105 105
105 110 111 ----------------- 109 110 111
100 100 100 --------------- 100 102 108
104 103 102 ------------- 103 104 105
107 106 106 --------------- 103 104 105
111 110 107 --------------- 112 114 116
109 109 107 --------------- 114 115 117
96 99 103 ---------------- 101 102 101
97 100 104 ---------------- 103 104 105
101 102 109 ---------------- 106 108 110
101 103 107 ---------------- 104 105 105
105 110 111 ----------------- 109 110 111
Unfortunately those temps are too low to make any sense out of them. The tires aren't working hard enough. Even at an autocross you should be able to get the temps into the 150s.
You must take the temps immediately after coming off course. Don't drive back to grid or your paddock spot. Pull over to the side and immediately get the temps and it helps a bunch if you have another person do the work while you're getting out of the car.
You must take the temps immediately after coming off course. Don't drive back to grid or your paddock spot. Pull over to the side and immediately get the temps and it helps a bunch if you have another person do the work while you're getting out of the car.
Before you spend on a camber/toe kit see if the stock stuff can meet your needs. The rears on these cars are pretty adjustable.
We run as much camber as we can get up front (about 0.8 degrees negative) and we've been at 2.0 negative in the rear and we're liking it. Toe, we're running about 1 degree toe out up front and 0 toe (actually toed out about 0.05) in the rear. The dynamic toe gives these cars natural toe out under acceleration anyway.
If you wanted to go more for an understeer bias or forward bite, you could toe in a bit. What we have so far works for us. We won't really know how well it works for us until next weekend though.
That makes the car pretty darty on the street, but with all the caster the Z has, it's driveable. It's also lightning-quick at turn in and rotates nicely on throttle or left foot braking, while being pretty well neutral otherwise.
We're also running 275(f)/295(r) V710s on Koni Yellows and with stock springs, cobb bar on full stiff (standard B Stock setup basically), just as a basis for comparison.
If those Tein springs you have are shorter, or if you get camber arms up front, you can get what these cars need (and lack) most: front camber. It's BSP legal now too. If your class allows it, I'd get as much as possible.
Otherwise, don't screw with the factory alignment too much; they did a really good job from the factory for the most part, especially if you leave the car close to stock.
We run as much camber as we can get up front (about 0.8 degrees negative) and we've been at 2.0 negative in the rear and we're liking it. Toe, we're running about 1 degree toe out up front and 0 toe (actually toed out about 0.05) in the rear. The dynamic toe gives these cars natural toe out under acceleration anyway.
If you wanted to go more for an understeer bias or forward bite, you could toe in a bit. What we have so far works for us. We won't really know how well it works for us until next weekend though.
That makes the car pretty darty on the street, but with all the caster the Z has, it's driveable. It's also lightning-quick at turn in and rotates nicely on throttle or left foot braking, while being pretty well neutral otherwise.
We're also running 275(f)/295(r) V710s on Koni Yellows and with stock springs, cobb bar on full stiff (standard B Stock setup basically), just as a basis for comparison.
If those Tein springs you have are shorter, or if you get camber arms up front, you can get what these cars need (and lack) most: front camber. It's BSP legal now too. If your class allows it, I'd get as much as possible.
Otherwise, don't screw with the factory alignment too much; they did a really good job from the factory for the most part, especially if you leave the car close to stock.
I autox w/ my Z in my region's street tire class. I am on stock suspension with front camber arms and 275 tires all around on 18x10 wheels.
This is what I run for alignments settings for autox and daily driving.
Front: -1.6 camber w/ 1/16 toe out
Rear: -2.1 camber w/ 1/16 toe in
My previous settings were -1.5 camber w/ 0 toe all around, but I didn't like how unstable and twitchy the rear felt. My current settings feel very neutral with good turn in response upon entry and a stable rear coming out of a corner.
This is what I run for alignments settings for autox and daily driving.
Front: -1.6 camber w/ 1/16 toe out
Rear: -2.1 camber w/ 1/16 toe in
My previous settings were -1.5 camber w/ 0 toe all around, but I didn't like how unstable and twitchy the rear felt. My current settings feel very neutral with good turn in response upon entry and a stable rear coming out of a corner.
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From: Margate, FL
Before you spend on a camber/toe kit see if the stock stuff can meet your needs. The rears on these cars are pretty adjustable.
We run as much camber as we can get up front (about 0.8 degrees negative) and we've been at 2.0 negative in the rear and we're liking it. Toe, we're running about 1 degree toe out up front and 0 toe (actually toed out about 0.05) in the rear. The dynamic toe gives these cars natural toe out under acceleration anyway.
If you wanted to go more for an understeer bias or forward bite, you could toe in a bit. What we have so far works for us. We won't really know how well it works for us until next weekend though.
That makes the car pretty darty on the street, but with all the caster the Z has, it's driveable. It's also lightning-quick at turn in and rotates nicely on throttle or left foot braking, while being pretty well neutral otherwise.
We're also running 275(f)/295(r) V710s on Koni Yellows and with stock springs, cobb bar on full stiff (standard B Stock setup basically), just as a basis for comparison.
If those Tein springs you have are shorter, or if you get camber arms up front, you can get what these cars need (and lack) most: front camber. It's BSP legal now too. If your class allows it, I'd get as much as possible.
Otherwise, don't screw with the factory alignment too much; they did a really good job from the factory for the most part, especially if you leave the car close to stock.
We run as much camber as we can get up front (about 0.8 degrees negative) and we've been at 2.0 negative in the rear and we're liking it. Toe, we're running about 1 degree toe out up front and 0 toe (actually toed out about 0.05) in the rear. The dynamic toe gives these cars natural toe out under acceleration anyway.
If you wanted to go more for an understeer bias or forward bite, you could toe in a bit. What we have so far works for us. We won't really know how well it works for us until next weekend though.
That makes the car pretty darty on the street, but with all the caster the Z has, it's driveable. It's also lightning-quick at turn in and rotates nicely on throttle or left foot braking, while being pretty well neutral otherwise.
We're also running 275(f)/295(r) V710s on Koni Yellows and with stock springs, cobb bar on full stiff (standard B Stock setup basically), just as a basis for comparison.
If those Tein springs you have are shorter, or if you get camber arms up front, you can get what these cars need (and lack) most: front camber. It's BSP legal now too. If your class allows it, I'd get as much as possible.
Otherwise, don't screw with the factory alignment too much; they did a really good job from the factory for the most part, especially if you leave the car close to stock.
This is the same setup that I run for the most part.... 1/8" toe out up front, 1/16" in in the rear, max camber front (.9 ugh), I run about -1.5 in the rear, on the big front bar and koni yellows (middle in the rear and stiff up front).
Your setup sounds interesting with the staggered tires and rear camber. Since I'm on 18" I don't really have the option, but I did find my car to be very susceptible to wheelspin, so when I tried to add more neg camber in the rear it just made it worse. As it is, I have to run more fuel.
I do tend to be pretty aggressive on the throttle, so my setup tends to accomodate that...YMMV.
See you in Blytheville, back in a Z!
Tire temps look consistent, so I wouldn't mess with anything, however, I agree that they are too low to make an accurate assessment. If the tire temp you've ready is accurate, then your alignment settings are fine until you put in more heat.
BTW, I have the same "problem" with my set-up. I have all these fancy control arms ready for install, but my tire temps are consistent between 150 and 153 across their 275 tread, so I haven't done a thing.
BTW, I have the same "problem" with my set-up. I have all these fancy control arms ready for install, but my tire temps are consistent between 150 and 153 across their 275 tread, so I haven't done a thing.
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