ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

I picked up some ings +1 TS06 wheels (forged, lightweight, made by Rays) in 18x9.5 +12 front 18x10.5 +15 rear... I wanted the +22 offset for the front but it wasnt available, so i went with the +12.... I will be running either a 245 or a 255 in the front. I will also be running some wider (10mm) CF front fenders if there are any rubbing issues.

My questions is: Is the +12 offset in front a little too aggressive for track use and spirited driving? Would the car handle, perform, steer better with a more conservative offset?

I know i wont be able to run as wide a tire in the front due to this offset, but since im NA, i think 245 or 255 front tire will be plenty. Ill be running a 285/35 in the rear.

(edit) > my car is and will be lowered, and it will have front camber arms. rear fenders are rolled with camber arms and toe bolts. I will be using Toyo T1Rs.... and to be honest, I will mostly be doing canyon runs, with SOME track time thrown in a couple times a year...

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

Don't you think that searching in this section and asking BEFORE actually buying the wheels would help you for that?

btw... is your car lowered? does your car have adjustable front camber arms? are your rear fender cutted/rolled? which kind of tires you are going to use on the track?

I think you'll end up better using your '05 stock rims for the track and keep those to show on the road.

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

^the wheels have not arrived yet, they are brand new... if i choose to do so, im sure i can exchange them... i didnt ask this question before cause i was sure it will be fine considering alot of people are running the RPF1s in this size with +15 all around. And member chebosto races with +15 offset in the front. The reason i got worried was because i saw some pics of member tk210 with 18x9.5 +12 in the front and for some reason it looked MUCH more aggressive than the pics of 18x9.5 +15 ive seen.

my car is and will be lowered, and it will have front camber arms. rear fenders are rolled with camber arms and toe bolts. I will be using Toyo T1Rs.... to be honest tho, I will mostly be doing canyon runs, with SOME track time thrown in a couple times a year...

can you provide reasons for your last statement? again, this car will mostly be street and canyon/twisty road driven, with some track time. thanks!

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

this is how it does fit a 255/40R17 front on a 17*9.5+18 RPF1 wheel with -3 degrees of camber and I'm quite low...



in the rear is a 275/40R17 still on RPF1 17*9.5+18 with -2.2 of camber


in the rear... no issue with rolled fenders I can stick a 285 but can't go too much lower with that camber in the front I had to raise it a little bit and put a little more camber to fit a 275.

and btw... don't use the toyo T1R... are just piece of junk if you want to drive fast... as street class tires go with bridgestone RE-11, kumho XS, Yokohama Advan AD08, Hankook RS3, Dunlop star spec...

I told you to use the stock wheels because they give you WAY MORE freedom to adjust the suspension angle without having any fitment issue... and your choice of wheels told me that you are a n00b in this game.

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

haha thats funny... never seen anyone call anyone a noob for choosing lightweight forged wheels made by Rays before, unless of course youre talking about my choice of size and offsets... but either way i def am a noob when it comes to track and racing.... i was actually very close to picking up the RPF1s in 18, but just dont LOVE the way they look...

thanks for your reply, i will do more research on tires... although i had a set of T1Rs on my previous setup and i was very happy with them. they wore great, were pretty smooth on the highway, and performed excellent during many canyons runs..... and im very suprised you recommended hankooks as ive heard nothing but bad things about them..

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

no, but the simple fact is that whoever goes to the track usually spend 250$ a piece for the wheels, and use the other 500$ a piece difference for volks for tires and brake pads. they are going to get beaten up... burnt from brake pads dust and scratched from gravel and so on... and, the fact that you can order a single enkei and have it to your door in 4 or 5 days usually helps in the unfortunate case you FUBAR a rim.

unless you're loaded and in that case you show up at the track either with a gtr or with a gt3

and about the hankooks... unless you plan on driving on really wet.. they are a way better tire than the toyo T1R... but if you look carefully... I suggested 4 more tires.
and BEFORE you spend all the money in mods... just grab the car... as it is right now. put better brake pads (and have one more set ready) change the oil fluid with some ate blue, change the oil, change the transmission fluid if you haven't done yet... and go to a road course AS IS.
you'll see that is WAY different from a canyon run... have as many track days without modifying the car as you can and than you'll know by yourself what you really need to go faster.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Your NA, you want to be as close to square as possible, and sure as hell not put a bigger stagger on the car than how it came from the factory. So if you run the 285 rears, i would run 275 fronts. That would actually be a nice combo.

When buying wheels, don't limit your tire selection by offset. +15 and crap is cool for the street, but for the track get +25 to +30 so maximize your tire selection. You can always run spacers.

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

if thats true, then that is really good info, and it also means i made the wrong purchase. But can you explain this in a little more detail to me?

also, if i was to keep these wheels, what would you recommend i run? cause im pretty sure a 275 or even a 265 will rub in the front with a 9.5 +12 wheel with conservative camber and low(er) ride height... and i really want to run a 285 in the rear, but i may need to settle for a 275 i guess... but again that is all based on what you said about being as close to square as possible...

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

sorry to be rude... but use the search button for this forum.
wheels, tire, offset, suspension setup have been discussed hundreds of times and all the time with the same outcome.

square or _almost_ square setup is the best for a NA car.
9.5/10.0 wide rims is the best for the available tires.
offset between +30 to +22 gives you most choices with tires.
18" or even 17" are best for price and performance.

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

^even though im a noob in regards to whats best for the track, im not a noob to this forum, and i would appreciate it if you didnt treat me like one by telling me to use the search button... im well aware of the search function and i use it often, but this was a specific question that i didnt find CLEAR answers to while searching...

i dont think think there's anything wrong with my asking terrasmak to expand on his comment...

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

which part of:
"square or _almost_ square setup is the best for a NA car.
9.5/10.0 wide rims is the best for the available tires.
offset between +30 to +22 gives you most choices with tires.
18" or even 17" are best for price and performance."

wasn't helping?

about the square setup... by factory the 350z is dialed with a good amount of understeer, that makes the car easier to drive on the road and less "scary" for the less experienced driver.
so, using the same size between front a rear, makes the car neutral.
at the beginning you'll have to learn to drive it again because she'll turn into the corners way better and quicker but will also be more prone to power oversteer and weight transfer oversteer.

the favorite choices are usually 275 all around (9.5/10" wide rim), 285 all around (10/10.5" wide rim) or 255 all around (9/9.5 wide rim) than depends on which kind of tires you want to run, if they makes the sizes you need and so on...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

^^^ he couldn't have said it any better.

Even with a 20mm stagger that i run , with full suspension i still battle understeer at every track and always play with the suspension trying to get it right. My next set of tires will be 275 all around. If i ran 18's i would either run 275/35 front and 285/35 rears or a 275 all around in one combo or another.

Stillen Z

iTrader: (2)

I plan to buy Enkei RPF1s in either 18x9.5 or 18x10 and run 275/35s all around on my fenders rolled and lowered car. The 9.5" wheel comes only in 15, 38, and 45 offsets, according to the Enkei web site. Pardon my ignorance, but is the solution to get to 22 - 30 offset to start with a 15 offset just use 7 - 15mm spacers?

The 10" wheel is available only in a 38 offset, again according to the Enkei site, so if spacers do the trick for the 9.5" wheel, it would seem that the 10" wheel is unsuitable due to too much offset. Do I have that right?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

You could do the 9.5 +38 up front with a 10 or 15mm spacer. The the 10.5 +15 rear with a 285/35. Some people will say to just do the 9.5 +15 up front with the 275/35, that will work but you have to run more camber than actually needed to make it work (street compound tire ie NT05, Star spec etc etc).

Best and cheapest combo 17x9.5 +18 with 275/40-17 front and rear.

If you must run 18's, Enkei has NT03's in the optimal offset for the track, its also a very popular wheel at the track.

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

^ive ran NTO3s before and loved them... i would run these before i would run anything with spacers...

Ive also ran 255/35/19 front and 285/35/19 rear on my previous setup with CE28Ns 19x9.5/10.5 +22 all around, and although i never took it to the track, i did drive the crap out of my car in the canyons (and yes i understand that the track is a whole different ball game than canyon) and liked the way it handled... it was also a very nice street setup i thought... i was running Toyo T1Rs, which gripped well and wore very nicely

i mean, the car does comes with a 20mm stagger from the factory.....

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

thanks for your replies/help by the way guys... i do appreciate it.

i really want to try to make these wheels (with these offsets) work tho...

actually, on my old NTO3s that i bought used, the previous owner was a HUGE track junky and he machined the rear wheels for higher offsets (shaved off about 5mm of metal from the center of wheel) so he can run a 295 in the rear and still be low and not roll his fenders, etc... so maybe thats always a possibility for me... although i would be VERY timid on doing this with these expensive Rays wheels. and im in no way suggesting that this will work and be safe etc on this wheel. It worked with the NTO3s and they saw very aggressive driving at the track (not by me), but i have no idea if it will work with my new wheels. For starters, the manuf process is different (cast vs forged).

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

again.. keep the rays to pose on the road and buy a used set of enkei/stockers/whatever with the right size and offset.
if you don't want to cry the first time you'll wash the rims after being to the track.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

I always shoot for 22-30 offset for track use. Depending on tire sizes, ride height, and suspension stiffness, you may have issues with rubbing.

ginobetterfly

iTrader: (30)

What about 9.5 +34 front with NO spacer? The problem is i dont know if this offset would clear a BBK...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Thats a gamble, +34 with 275/35 will work depending on the tire. What wheel was +34?