Track Only Z Build Suggestions
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That K-sport stuff needs to be replaced with real parts......if you really want to have an effective track car. You are going to want probably 10-10.5" wheels all the way around. I am going to guess from the parts list/post that you don't have any prior track experience?
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First a few things...do you have any track experience? Almost every organization requires a qualification. It could be attend a few of their schools, working your way up through the ranks, or attand a intense testing process. Keep that in mind, and if you haven't ever been on many tracks you may not even like it.
Second, I always tell people, don't build a car then look for a place to race it. Decide what and where you want to race and then build one to the rules of the series. There are too many great projects that don't qualify to run anywhere so they are left to be track day run abouts. A great track day car can be a lot of fun too, but if you are serious about racing, decide who you want to race with and what. The people around you are as important, if not MORE important than the cars you run.
Those are my thoughts.
Second, I always tell people, don't build a car then look for a place to race it. Decide what and where you want to race and then build one to the rules of the series. There are too many great projects that don't qualify to run anywhere so they are left to be track day run abouts. A great track day car can be a lot of fun too, but if you are serious about racing, decide who you want to race with and what. The people around you are as important, if not MORE important than the cars you run.
Those are my thoughts.
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Honestly, it sounds like it will be a pain to class this car, assuming your experience level is in the Low to Moderate range. As listed, it will likely be a track day/Time Trial/Time Attack car. I would imagine you would be best suited with a 10.5-11.00 in wheel for the rear. LSx engine on a 9.0 in wheel and rubber may be a little too small. And you really can't go wrong with the RPF1's. As for the brakes, I haven't heard much on them so if your not getting a killer price I'd probably go with something else. Personally I saw a set of 4 piston AP's for under $1800 new, so look around. On the suspension, the RR's didn't look bad spec-wise for a budget build. They are made to the spring and valving you request so be careful in your choice. Lastly and very important, the cage. Make sure you do the research on what the groups in your area require. NASA, SCCA, etc. all have certain rules on the cages they deem suitable so make sure you get that sorted out prior to starting construction on it.
I can get you some 9 and 10" RPF1 Enkei's for around $1280 plus shipping.
I have to say that I don't understand what you are building. I have built many cars over the years when I was racing and my son and I are now on our 6th for his racing. Every car he and I built was specifically for a SCCA class, mainly because that is where the most competitive racing was and is.
You are throwing out parts names when you need to make a long build list of what you need and what will do the best job. We have found that the Brembo brakes that come on the 350Z work just fine to slow down a 3400 pound car so why not go with those. Carbotech makes a couple of pad selections and they know exactly what pad you will need once you tell them where you will race, how heavy the car is and what you expect your top speed to be. If you were a little closer I wold invite you up to look at our T2 - T3 350Z car and show you where we put our money considering what the rules allow us to do.
First decide what and where you are going to race. Get a set of rules. Make a list of things you can legally do to the car. Find someone who has built a car or two to help you and crew for you. Then build as bulletproff car as you can and go have some fun racing it.
I have to say that I don't understand what you are building. I have built many cars over the years when I was racing and my son and I are now on our 6th for his racing. Every car he and I built was specifically for a SCCA class, mainly because that is where the most competitive racing was and is.
You are throwing out parts names when you need to make a long build list of what you need and what will do the best job. We have found that the Brembo brakes that come on the 350Z work just fine to slow down a 3400 pound car so why not go with those. Carbotech makes a couple of pad selections and they know exactly what pad you will need once you tell them where you will race, how heavy the car is and what you expect your top speed to be. If you were a little closer I wold invite you up to look at our T2 - T3 350Z car and show you where we put our money considering what the rules allow us to do.
First decide what and where you are going to race. Get a set of rules. Make a list of things you can legally do to the car. Find someone who has built a car or two to help you and crew for you. Then build as bulletproff car as you can and go have some fun racing it.
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From: NC
I run 2 to three events in SC a year myself and know most of the other event organizers in the south east and mid atlantic but I am not aware of that arrangement with anyone. You are more than welcome to come out and check things out for free at one of my events.
Last edited by mhoward1; Jan 27, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
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From: South Carolina
my suggestion..buy slightly used parts, and save some cash. track days are expensive. are you going to be keeping stock glass? what class are you trying to get into?
get proven parts that were developed on a track, and that dedicated track cars use. dont get parts because theyre pretty lol.
look into megan racing bbk's. i read they outperformed the stoptechs and had great reviews, as well as costing less.
get proven parts that were developed on a track, and that dedicated track cars use. dont get parts because theyre pretty lol.
look into megan racing bbk's. i read they outperformed the stoptechs and had great reviews, as well as costing less.
With that budget.....I would be looking into something far more track oriented. This doesn't mean you have to buy 3/4-way JRZ's, but I have never so much as seen a shock dyno from the Ksports. I am not a huge fan of off the shelf coil-overs in general. Perhaps seek out a company like true choice to build you a set of DA koni's. Probably 3k, but you can have valving to your liking and pair them with any spring rate/length you want. You also need to factor in.....Front A-Arms, Rear camber/toe, Sways, Endlinks, etc. Probably want to go through and replace most of the bushings.....particularly if your car is higher mileage.
Also, as others have said......I would take stock brembos over those brakes in a heart beat. They are really a solid set-up.....just give 'em a bit of air (ducting) and track oriented pad.
Like a few other posters have said......that level of set-up is going to plop you square in some of the most expensive classes in amateur racing. If I were you I would hold off on the LS1 and continue the investment into the suspension, tires, and track time. You are basically going to be running against unrestricted, built 430 challenge cars, z06's, vipers, etc. This would likely include active world challenge cars.
It's up to you, but I wouldn't want any part of that.
Also, as others have said......I would take stock brembos over those brakes in a heart beat. They are really a solid set-up.....just give 'em a bit of air (ducting) and track oriented pad.
Like a few other posters have said......that level of set-up is going to plop you square in some of the most expensive classes in amateur racing. If I were you I would hold off on the LS1 and continue the investment into the suspension, tires, and track time. You are basically going to be running against unrestricted, built 430 challenge cars, z06's, vipers, etc. This would likely include active world challenge cars.
It's up to you, but I wouldn't want any part of that.
Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Jan 27, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
350Z-holic
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From: NC
With that budget.....I would be looking into something far more track oriented. This doesn't mean you have to buy 3/4-way JRZ's, but I have never so much as seen a shock dyno from the Ksports. I am not a huge fan of off the shelf coil-overs in general. Perhaps seek out a company like true choice to build you a set of DA koni's. Probably 3k, but you can have valving to your liking and pair them with any spring rate/length you want. You also need to factor in.....Front A-Arms, Rear camber/toe, Sways, Endlinks, etc. Probably want to go through and replace most of the bushings.....particularly if your car is higher mileage.
Agreed...talk to the T2 guys and they can give you a pretty good idea what a balanced set up is for the entire system and not just the coilovers. If you are going to mod, spend the money on the suspension, wheels and tires, and brakes. Make sure they are all pretty much bullet proof and proven.
Bob,
what do you guys use for Control arms, bushing, etc?
Last edited by mhoward1; Jan 27, 2011 at 01:42 PM.
I know local Z racer that races in NASA has Wilwood front BBK and stock Brembo rears. He loves it. I can't give too much, but I would agree on most and not go with Ksport. Also, did you factor in a cage ( if needed )
Not one word in this whole thread about safety (unless I missed it). No mention of roll cage, FIA seats, fuel cell, fire system, window nets, kill switch, harnesses, HANS devices, driving suits, etc.
350Z-holic
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From: NC
Thread Starter
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From: South Carolina
just out of curiosity, who is that?
I run 2 to three events in SC a year myself and know most of the other event organizers in the south east and mid atlantic but I am not aware of that arrangement with anyone. You are more than welcome to come out and check things out for free at one of my events.
I run 2 to three events in SC a year myself and know most of the other event organizers in the south east and mid atlantic but I am not aware of that arrangement with anyone. You are more than welcome to come out and check things out for free at one of my events.
i would love to check out your events! it sounds like they would be the best fit for me.
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okay, after reading everyones advice its obvious i need more help than i imagined haha which is great! this is exactly why i posted this thread instead building a car with bad parts, a big motor, and no purpose other than the enjoyment of building it like some of you have said. i open this to yall (mhoward1,03threefityz, racerbob4) what would you buy for a stripped Z?? i dont know the restrictions and requirements like you guys, but i am interested in learning and i would love to get a few racing licenses if it means opening more doors to higher leagues.
Last edited by MixSeed; Jan 27, 2011 at 03:53 PM.
As we've said before.....you need to sit down and look within existing clubs (scca, nasa, etc) and find a class you want to race within. Then study the rules to memory and set-off planning/building your car. We could come up with any number of differing set-ups, but it may not be in a class or budget your are comfortable with. Your current ideas in terms of power, etc lend it to a ST1 or STO build. You aren't going to build a competitive car with spares, tow rig, etc for under 80-100k.
Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Jan 27, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
Oem brembo would be nice, Wilwood kit can be had for the same cost as Megan,rotora and Ksport crap. Stoptech brakes would also be nice.
Enkei NT03's would actually be your best bet for wheels, stronger than RPF1's , 1/2 pound heavier and much better offset for big rubber.
Start driving and get some seat time.
Last edited by terrasmak; Jan 27, 2011 at 04:32 PM.
350Z-holic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 14,502
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From: NC
okay, after reading everyones advice its obvious i need more help than i imagined haha which is great! this is exactly why i posted this thread instead building a car with bad parts, a big motor, and no purpose other than the enjoyment of building it like some of you have said. i open this to yall (mhoward1,03threefityz, racerbob4) what would you buy for a stripped Z?? i dont know the restrictions and requirements like you guys, but i am interested in learning and i would love to get a few racing licenses if it means opening more doors to higher leagues.
As fas as our events at CMP (kershaw), we will have two events there this year you can just come out and see. We have a great set of instructors and after you have a few events you can try the time trials out.
If you have your heart set on racing then the NASA South east is a great way to go. It's light on the school part but they give you a great way to build up to door to door racing. Jim P runs a great show. At CMP itself is the school Turn One. I instruct with them as well and they are pretty good except they usually only do week days.
All in All there is something going on at CMP every weekend and many days during the week. VIR is also worth the drive.
My best advice at this point is keep the car stock except for brakes and brake fluid. Make sure eveything else is in good working order and then attend a few schools (not open track days) with different groups and see who you like running with. It will also help you decide how you like the car to handle and respond and then you can decide the parts that best fit your driving style.
Review the NASA Rule Book for Performance Touring
Note: looks like you are in South Carolina and NASA-SE and NASA MId-South have MANY events in your area....HPDE thru Wheel-to-Wheel racing...
I recommend that the Safety CAGE be the #1 highest priority task in your build project...if you don't do that right the 1st time....you are Fcuked!!! Check out the Robinson Racing Website for info on "real race quality cages".
All the other stuff can be changed out as you develop the car. So plan to spend $5-7K OR MORE at the beginning on a "NASCAR" style cage and required safety equipment (seats/belts/HANS/fire system/drivers suit/helmet/shoes/etc)
http://robinsonracing.net/
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules
Note: looks like you are in South Carolina and NASA-SE and NASA MId-South have MANY events in your area....HPDE thru Wheel-to-Wheel racing...
I recommend that the Safety CAGE be the #1 highest priority task in your build project...if you don't do that right the 1st time....you are Fcuked!!! Check out the Robinson Racing Website for info on "real race quality cages".
All the other stuff can be changed out as you develop the car. So plan to spend $5-7K OR MORE at the beginning on a "NASCAR" style cage and required safety equipment (seats/belts/HANS/fire system/drivers suit/helmet/shoes/etc)
http://robinsonracing.net/
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules
Last edited by laze1; Jan 28, 2011 at 04:50 AM.