lotteman

Hey everyone,

I've been having this problem that i've spent months trying to figure out on my own with no success. On right turns( and so far ONLY right turns) my rear inside wheel lifts off the ground and prevents me from being able to power out of turns. Once i get on the throttle the inside rear just spins and i get nothing... just some screeching until that corner is finally loaded again and i can hook up. Its pretty frustrating when i keep up with smaller cars like miatas through corners only to have them fly away as im trying to get the car to hook up. Heres my setup so you guys can better understand what im working with.

crappy ksport coilovers 672lbs F & 297lbs rear(true rear coilover mounting)
Motordyne swaybars (26mm f & 22mm rear solid iirc) on stock endlinks
255/40 18 bridgestone potenza Re760sport on all four wheels
camber= -2F & -1.5R
toe= .05F & .15R
Caster= 9.0deg
ride height= 4.5"~ from ground to pinchweld

This is on a 5at G35 coupe. The car has never been corner balanced. I had it on scales once at school for ***** and giggles and i remember the the LF corner had almost 1000lbs on it with me in the driver seat and 1/2 tank of gas. I suspect that since thats the heaviest corner it is causing a lot of movement at the front which is making the RR corner lift on right turns. I could be wrong though. So before I jump the gun and get and expensive corner balance is there anything you guys recommend i try? On my last track day, i tried to increase my front shock rebound by 4 clicks(36adjustments total) to somewhat replicate a stiffer spring but all that did was give me huge amounts of understeer. I've heard of people using assist springs to gain more suspension droop, would that work? any imput would greatly be appreciated.

SQuaLZ

Sounds like you have an open diff.

Don't know much about what G35s come with but that would be my guess.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

My guess is it's MOSTLY your driving habits. I would grab someone with more experience in the RWD heavyweight classes and have them give you a few pointers.

Mechanically the only other thing you can really fault is the LSD. There is nothing wrong with a chassis that transfers weight. It's physics. With an open (or VLSD) all the power goes unfavorably to the wheel with no grip.

Also, as an aside, your endlinks will not let you get corner balanced right now anyway.

Barnabas

iTrader: (15)

Getting Endlinks, softer rear sway bar, real diff, will make a differnce on mechanical end

Im sure their can be improvements do your driving habits as well... There is almost always room for improvement.

A diff will prob make the biggest difference (2 way)

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

1.5 way is usually preferred for roadcourse use but 2 way is better than none

Barnabas

iTrader: (15)

I thought 1.5 would spin if you lifted? I may be thinking backwards though

Barnabas

iTrader: (15)

I had a Cusco 1.5 on my Z but i never lifted a wheel in AutoX.

It was quiet and performed great for me.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

You're thinking of helical diffs like Quaife and Torsen. They will act like open diffs when one wheel lifts. Any clutchpack diff (like cusco) whether 1.5 way or 2 way will power both wheels a preset amount when one wheel lifts.

Barnabas

iTrader: (15)

O ok! Thanks for the clarification!!

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

You shouldn't ever get the back wheel off the ground on a Z...in fact it should never be close unless you hit a large bump.

Your tires don't have enough grip, even with the heavy nose weight, to get the tire off with those spring rates...unless the Ksports have very, very little travel.

My car was overly sprung this weekend, but this is all the roll its got with 1000/850 (OEM) springs and a 35mm front bar. On used up, many many heat cycle A6's...

jerseyg

iTrader: (1)

Unless the OP's g35 was equipped with the sports package (you can tell by orange stitching on the steering wheel and metal pedals instead of rubber), i believe the 5at g's came with the 3.3 fd open diff.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I would say the coilover travel, probably not set up properly. Not enough down travel.

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure the wheels are actually lifting? How's the condition of your shocks? Could just be weak shocks allowing too much bodyroll?

Get a good LSD imo. OS Giken 1.5way hands down.

mhoward1

I wouyld have to agree that this is most likely a diff issue than a lift issue. I would also wonder about the shift behavior of the AT. Where and how does it downshift once power is applied.

samsniss350z

wow new on on me unless its been really stiffened

lotteman

I guess i might over exaggerated when i said that the RR wheel was lifting in the air. It is lifting but just high enough where there is very little to no contact between the tire and the ground. Heres a photo of me this past weekend. Im in the far back, you can see my RR wheel is unloaded with my LF corner heavily loaded.



Although im sure a real LSD could help me tons, it still doesnt change that on right turns one of my tires are completely useless.

Also, the 5at's have a pretty decent tiptronic mode i dont think it would unsettle the car much more than a manual trans would... maybe lol idk

SQuaLZ

Does it only do it on right turns?

I have an open diff and when I turn left the car can step out, where when I turn right it feels like the rear right wheel is doing nothing for me as the left spins.

If it only does it on right turns then it sounds similar to my situation and if that is the case it is the diff.

SQuaLZ

That rear spoiler looks intense!

What company is that? or is that custom?

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Very custom.

SQuaLZ

I thought so, it looks sick!!!