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I believe the logic behind it is the weight in the front (the motor) wants to shift side to side in corners creating a larger moment of inertia depending on which direction the car steers in. This creates more roll and puts more force on the leading tire. By having a sway bar tie together the front it reduces the roll and the moment created by the weight transfer helping keep the front end more composed.
A rear bar would create a tendency to rotate but wouldn't help with the front roll and understeer. So in some instance it would help but others it would oversteer or do nothing to help with understeer.
Yup. I would never do a rear bar alone. In fact, I've even played around with disconnecting the rear bar for better traction. However, I think the best option for street class is a large adjustable front bar and a stock rear bar.
Interested in knowing about this because my car does it as well (although I just really noticed it recently). I would say at about 90% out is where mine seems to get a little sticky. But as you stated, it does return all the way out within half a second.
I'd try bleeding the hydraulic clutch system first. I've had this happen in my 240sx and all I needed to do was bleed the system.
Also, had a question related to the mechanics (hydraulics maybe) of the car. When pushing the car and shifting quickly, when I let the clutch out the rpms bog down rather than instantaneously drop down. You can hear it in the shift from 1st=>2nd at 4:22 in the last video. Now it feels like the clutch pedal is sticking at the top of where the clutch grabs. (It feels like it doesn't follow my foot up all the way when I release). I am thinking it is the slave cylinder or the clutch. I did a clutch test my HS auto tech instructor showed me, drive at 20 MPH in 4th gear, rev engine up a bit, dump clutch. If RPM dies immediately clutch is good. Did that and RPM dies down immediately.
That and the way the pedal doesn't follow my foot up all the way (It gets stuck halfway up and eventually comes all the way up) has me thinking it is clutch slave that is bad. Also, I did flush the clutch fluid prior to this autocross event.
Does the pressure plate diaphragm struggle to keep pressure when getting hot or when the clutch is on its way out?
i had almost the same issue like this... i just did a clutch master and slave cylinder rebuild and it's all good now. cost i believe is just about $20 and like an hour to an hour and a half of work. (switched out to SS clutch lines too while at it). easy diy. HTH!
i had almost the same issue like this... i just did a clutch master and slave cylinder rebuild and it's all good now. cost i believe is just about $20 and like an hour to an hour and a half of work. (switched out to SS clutch lines too while at it). easy diy. HTH!
Hey! I know you from Instagram!
I ordered all of the parts yesterday. I might just do the slave and hose first because I recall my slave having a lot of corrosion inside of the boot from the first time I bled the system.
Yup. I would never do a rear bar alone. In fact, I've even played around with disconnecting the rear bar for better traction. However, I think the best option for street class is a large adjustable front bar and a stock rear bar.
How was that? I feel like removing the rear bar might make the car squirrely, especially in slaloms where you are accelerating through them.
This was on my 240sx. I have a SM class 240sx that I've done pretty much everything to the suspension trying to get it just how I want it. Removing the rear bar allows you to get on the gas a little quicker, more traction out of a turn. It feels worse in slaloms though. Suspension tuning is always a give take situation.
For CS, big adjustable front bar and stock rear bar is the easy button. After that you can start messing around with dual adjustable shocks to really dial it in if you want to get nitty gritty with it. Or you could just throw on some Koni yellows and simply drive.
I ordered all of the parts yesterday. I might just do the slave and hose first because I recall my slave having a lot of corrosion inside of the boot from the first time I bled the system.
yup! that's me!
yeah, you can try that too. but if you're gonna bleed the system anyways, might be a good idea to do the MC altogether. at least you only have to bleed it once. just my .02
Yup. I would never do a rear bar alone. In fact, I've even played around with disconnecting the rear bar for better traction. However, I think the best option for street class is a large adjustable front bar and a stock rear bar.
On my 350z, all stock except for a square tire setup, it had zero understeer. The only handling problem I noticed was too much body roll and lifting a rear wheel which makes acceleration out of a corner worse.
I've driven one with a large front sway bar and it added a little understeer only on turn in, but drove flatter (less body roll) and helped putting power down out of the corner. Leading to ultimately faster times.
The only other tweaks you can do in CS for handling are adjustable shocks and alignment.
A stock front bar and aftermarket rear bar (assuming you would go bigger) would not help with body roll and add oversteer. Most likely it would make putting power down more difficult. I typically only add larger rear sway bars on FWD or AWD cars.
First I started off with attempting to remedy my clutch issue. Tore apart everything hydraulic in the clutch system. I Rebuilt the master cylinder and replaced the rubber hose along with the slave cylinder. I cleaned everything out meticulously and made sure there was no debris left everywhere. I had access to a shop when doing this I used a solvent tank, then brake cleaner, then an air compressor to dry it off.
Some pictures from before:
I borrowed my girlfriend's camera to make me feel like photographer. The slave and hose were from O'reilly (I work there and get a good discount) I haven't had any problems with slave cylinders in the past, and the lifetime warranty makes it so in the future I can warranty out and either get a new one for no cost or get my money back.
That was nasty.
using an air hose to blow all the crud out, then filling it with brake cleaner, then blowing it out and did this until I emptied a can of brake cleaner.
All clean! Then I bled the system.
So after all was done, initially the clutch felt MUCH better. It had a "rusty" feel to it when I would push the clutch in and out. So hop on the road and do a 1st to 2nd pull and shift quickly... does the same thing. Bogs the rpm down and the clutch doesn't follow my foot up. Did it again and launch my knee into my chest and same thing happened. I feel the pressure plate is becoming weak.
Driving to the event on the highway, I noticed in 6th gear (and 5th gear) when I would accelerate, the rpm would go up and bog back down to where it should be and be fine. On the way back same thing, clutch would slip a little in 5th or 6th and then catch and drive normal. all the other gears I have no slip. I'm thinking I need a new clutch. Plan on changing it as soon as I can.
Anyway to the event. This course was fun. A lot of lat apexing took place to get me my fastest time. I came first in CS and 33rd overall; 21st PAX.
The off camber turns really made this VLSD show its weakness. Had a bit of understeer as well, but adjusted my lines and tire pressure to counter it.
I also had my buddy co-drive it. He usually drives a Miata but it was down so I let him co-drive, it was nerve racking to watch someone else drive my car haha.
Overall it was a awesome event, super fun. We could of had more runs but a Z3 spun out and hit a curb. We had to wait for a tow truck until we could presume.
Soooo clutches... I am looking at either an Exedy OEM replacement or the Z1 Motorsports Mild Clutch. Feedback on either would be appreciated. I'd like to only do this once.
What I am really worried about is the flywheel. From what I understand the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) is more difficult to machine and need special equipment to machine it. Most ditch it, I still want to stay STU legal. Would replacing it with Z1's Nodular Iron Flywheels keep me legal? Or JWT's clutch flywheel combo here: https://conceptzperformance.com/jim-...sd_p_18529.php
If I can I will try to find a local shop to machine the DMF.
In STU and CS you are only allowed to do stock equivalent replacements.
That was what I felt like it would be.
At O'reilly auto parts(along with other OE equivalent clutch/flywheel kits) they only offer a solid flywheel to replace the dual mass. Would that still be legal?
Did you make a decision on the clutch? When I replaced mine I went with the Exedy OEM replacement and had the flywheel machined by a very good local machine shop. I haven't had any issues since. I don't know if a solid flywheel is legal or not, sorry.
BTW, I'm Mark.Krueger.Motorsports on IG. We chatted a little yesterday.
Did you make a decision on the clutch? When I replaced mine I went with the Exedy OEM replacement and had the flywheel machined by a very good local machine shop. I haven't had any issues since. I don't know if a solid flywheel is legal or not, sorry.
BTW, I'm Mark.Krueger.Motorsports on IG. We chatted a little yesterday.
Hey! I know you now.
I haven't yet, haven't put much effort into finding who can machine it locally with finals coming up.
I asked my region what they think, they feel it is legal if it is listed as a direct replacement for the OEM DMF and if it is similar in weight.
Oddly enough I can't replicate the clutch slipping. I went on a spirited canyon drive and coming back I tried to see if it would slip, it wouldn't. Really odd. Maybe it is just me. I am honestly going to wait to see if it gets any worse.
Would anyone know who makes a wheel in 17x9 and 18x10. I am thinking in the future to go to that size and stay in CS. Since the Grand Touring had 18x9 and 19x10, and since I am allowed to change wheel diameter +-1" Cost on tires would be bearable and I would reduce unsprung weight in the front if I used a decent wheel.
I asked my region what they think, they feel it is legal if it is listed as a direct replacement for the OEM DMF and if it is similar in weight.
I'm pretty sure the SEB disagrees, I'd love to ditch the dual mass unit, I hate how it feels. Feel free to ask the SEM for clarification that's what they are there for. https://www.crbscca.com/
Originally Posted by 13esim
Would anyone know who makes a wheel in 17x9 and 18x10. I am thinking in the future to go to that size and stay in CS. Since the Grand Touring had 18x9 and 19x10, and since I am allowed to change wheel diameter +-1" Cost on tires would be bearable and I would reduce unsprung weight in the front if I used a decent wheel.
Opinions?
Not trying to be the rules guy but, you can only run the width of wheel that came on your car, not what came on the ideal version of your car. So if you have an 06 GT you get to run 9" front and 10" rear, If you have an 03 track you can only run 8" front and 8.5" rear. The 06 GT didn't just come with wider wheels, it came with a weight penalty in the way of heated leather seats, bose sub and whatever else.
Yes, you can go up or down 1" in diameter from your stock wheels and +/- 7mm on offset.
I have an 06 GT and wheel choices are few. Looking at a set of Forgestars and dropping to an 18" in the rear. I'd rather have something forged but CCW's aren't in the budget.
These little things seem small but when you start taking a small advantage here and there it adds up.
I wish the wheel rule allowed for +/-.5 width as it would make wheel shopping a lot easier, and cheaper!
I'm pretty sure the SEB disagrees, I'd love to ditch the dual mass unit, I hate how it feels. Feel free to ask the SEM for clarification that's what they are there for. https://www.crbscca.com/
Not trying to be the rules guy but, you can only run the width of wheel that came on your car, not what came on the ideal version of your car. So if you have an 06 GT you get to run 9" front and 10" rear, If you have an 03 track you can only run 8" front and 8.5" rear. The 06 GT didn't just come with wider wheels, it came with a weight penalty in the way of heated leather seats, bose sub and whatever else.
Yes, you can go up or down 1" in diameter from your stock wheels and +/- 7mm on offset.
I have an 06 GT and wheel choices are few. Looking at a set of Forgestars and dropping to an 18" in the rear. I'd rather have something forged but CCW's aren't in the budget.
These little things seem small but when you start taking a small advantage here and there it adds up.
I wish the wheel rule allowed for +/-.5 width as it would make wheel shopping a lot easier, and cheaper!
Thanks for that link I will look into that!
I have an 06 Touring model, to use parts from a GT model I would have to do the full conversion to GT rather than pick and choose. So if I wanted the Rays wheels (Or at least that size) I would have to also put on OEM Brembos and the aero kit the GT came with. The Touring lacks those 3 things compared to the GT, I already have Bose, leather heated seats etc. so makes it a bit easier for me to convert to a GT. Definitely what I plan on doing.
I have been looking for wheels that meet the requirement also, wheel selection is far and few in between. It seems its a popular size for Mustang guys though. I don't think any of there wheels would look good on the 350Z. I did have a set of Cobra 17x9's on my 300ZX and they looked great. Since that 1" +- is allowed I was looking for a 17x9/18x10 combo to cut unsprung weight and cut cost of tires. My search hasn't provided anything useful unless I want to run two different wheels haha.
You aren't allowed to change the width. I wish you could as it would make wheel shopping a LOT easier and cheaper!
I ordered a set of forgestar CF5's, not my first choice but they give you more choice of width and offset at a fraction of CCW, Forgeline, Jongbloed charge.
03-29-2016, 07:24 AM
I used a solvent tank, then brake cleaner, then an air compressor to dry it off. 
