Update:
Tapped the last stripped outlet (1/8 NPT) and screwed in the 1/8 NPT sleeve without problem. Very relieved.

Wilwood bleeder screws are the sleeved type (as terrasmak mentioned). I ordered a handful of those from Wilwood and replaced all of the sketchy originals. They fit the original M10 x 1.0 threads.

I backed out the first two sleeve kits used Permatex high temp thread seal on the sleeves and they went back in just fine. Used the same stuff on the Wilwood sleeves as well. I put Permatex anti-seize on the nipple parts to keep them from seizing in the future.

I do the complete install Saturday.

 

Good luck, last time I did brakes my bleeder broke right off... I think heat is the only way to do it.. Luckily my new caliper was only $18 from auto zone... Thanks chevy s10

 

Awesome!!!! Happy to hear everything worked out

 

Got the rears installed this afternoon. No leaks! Hardest thing was cutting away the dust shield. Fronts go on tomorrow.

 

Pain in the *** everything you've been through so far.Here's to a smooth install... Fronts are easier. Did my swap last year bleeding them was a ***** for me. Bleed them the old fashion way and just couldnt get it right.

 

I swear that Motive Power Bleeder is one of the best tools I ever bought. It seemed crazy to pay so much (I think it is maybe $60) but I can't imagine doing the job without it. If you bleed your brakes every few years it might not be worth it, but if you track the car often and bleed often (which you should) it is worth every penny. So easy.

Begin Rant: It still ticks me off that I can't get ATE Super Blue anymore. Maybe not the highest level brake fluid but it has withstood all the high temp torture I have thrown at it. It is so great to alternate between blue and amber so you could always tell when all the old fluid is gone. I'm flushing out my last can of blue with this bleed. End Rant.

 

I've still got Several liters of Blue (and a lot of R12, too), but it's only for my two vintage BMW's and the two Alfa Spider's. The Z just gets the Typ 200 now, and I still think the ATE fluid is among the best in terms of not absorbing moisture and causing system corrosion.

 

OK, let me do my little rant now!!!!
Called my local Nissan dealership to order 2 new bleeder screws.
Yes sir, we can order those for you. Price $107.45 EACH!!!!
Thank you Nissan for f****** me over!!!!

 

Get the ones from Wilwood. (M10x1). They cost a few bucks, fit perfectly and are actually a better design. And that is just creepy for Nissan to charge that much. There is no reason on earth. Its not like theirs are better than any others. In fact, the frequency that they seize indicates otherwise.

Anyway. Got it done. Got hung up with the nuts that hold the OEM lines being seized up. Both of them on both sides. Finally got them all loose.

Getting the front OEM style stainless lines plus the hard line from the caliper all done up was like wrestling an octopus but I finally got it all hooked up. No leaks so far. I'm going to drive it a bit then recheck it all and re-bleed.

When I first drove it it felt like the brakes weren't working normally but then I remembered that for the last month or so I've been driving with track pads. The new pads are street pads.....they just don't grab the same way. But, so far, so good!

 

Have you looked at the Russell Speed Bleeders? They are around $12.00 for two. I've never used them, but I've heard good things about them at the track. Might be worth looking into.




Good deal N80. I put everything back together but I have a hare scramble tomorrow on the dirt bike and need to focus on that. Hopefully Monday.

 

A couple of other thoughts:

With the OEM style stainless brake lines from Z1, the brass blocks do not fit between little tabs that hold the OEM brake line blocks in place on the front. I pulled the bracket that is attached to the spindle arm and hammered the tabs flat. The one on the shock is too hard to get to and I gave up and left the rest of them in place and bolted the new blocks over the top of them and they are quite secure so I wouldn't even bother trying to flatten them or grind them down. If I ever change shocks etc I might do it.

Also, I now have a set of Carbotech pads (XP 10 fronts, XP8 rears) for OEM non-Brembo calipers that are barely used. Cost $360 new. Will sell for $100 if anyone is interested.

 

Final update (I hope). Pulled the wheels off to inspect for leaks. Everything dry and in good shape. Fluid level fine. Did one final bleed just for good measure.

I'm still shocked that this worked out after all the initial issues. Thank goodness for cheap-o Chinese tap and die set from Harbor Freight and the little bleed screw repair kits.

Now I get to try a much wider variety of track pads. Going to try Porterfield R-4 endurance pads for Carolinas Motorsports Park but will stay with Carbotech XP-12s for VIR.

Next project: Brake ducts!