I would look into installation because your failure rate is above average based on my experience, especially if you are noticing axial play. Also if you are ordering them from the same source, I would try a different supplier.

Although id be surprised if both your shop and you are installing them wrong, you can mess them up by pressing the bearing/hub incorrectly and not tightening the axle properly. Actually I think a lot of people install them wrong, which leads to premature failure.

 

to continue this thread of useful info, Here is a picture of the rear 370z bearings/hub and the 350z bearing+hub:



Much "beefier". Also note, the overall length of the hub to bearing seat is the same. So the 10mm increase in track width is from the 370z subframe I am assuming (or redesigned control arm lengths). Can anyone confirm which?

Below is a pic of the 370z vs 350z axles (the 370z are longer):



So, for someone looking for a quick swap. The 370z bearing and axle alone on a 350z subframe is probably going to run the axle too tight.

 

In your picture, the 350z hub on the right has not been pressed all the way into the bearing from the looks of it.

 

Ive been running the 370z axles on my 350z...no issue thus far.

 

Nope, its correct as per FSM. Seated at 11000lbs. I could get more pics but ive done plenty of them (track car + slicks).

 

Cool man, very informative post.

 

This is something I have never seen before. I chew through bearings driving fast with wide tires.

So are we safe to run the axles and the bearings? Or is it going to bind up the universal joints like canadarob was saying? Just run bearings? Don't see much use in running the 370 axles if the bearings are the failure point

 

I'd like to just run the bearings on my '08, if that's at all possible. Waiting for a definitive answer, as next week I need to buy the parts and get the job done.

 

You have to run both...the spline shaft is larger on the 370z hub.

I just did a track weekend, drove back and forth (no trailer). i did Zdayz, dragon, airstrip and drove back and forth. Had them installed since december of 2016.

i would say that were ok to run them. my guess is the hub us providing the track width but would need to measure.

 

That's awesome! I'll throw some calipers on the hubs when I get around to this. Won't be cheap to buy all of that stuff

 

you should be under $300 otd

 

Guys, I just said In my above post that I measured them.... they are the same width...... 350z and 370z hub+bearing.

took a pic for you guys to reiterate:



Cux350z, I am not doubting its working for you at all! Just trying to figure out where this extra width in the axles is accounted for. Subframe or control arms(on a 370z)?
Or did nissan lengthen the axles for some redesign without a suspension change?

Does anyone have a 350z subframe they can measure? I actually have a 370z in my garage right now. I threw out my 350z one so I cant measure. Toe bolt "slot center" to toe bolt "slot center" anyone? Ill go measure my 370z one now

 

So I measured center to center of toe bolt slots on a 370z subframe.
17 3/8"

Can anyone confirm what that distance is on the 350z subframe?

 

17 5/8” on my 350z.

 

Didn't realize how much cheaper the g37 hub/bearings are. I almost pulled the trigger on some 350z ones. Glad I didn't. Going to go g37 instead.

So the splines are different, but what about the axle nuts? Bearing bolts? Chances of finding all of the hardware at a dealership? (Differential bolts) I probably have some laying around that would work anyways, but would like new

Edit ended up finding everything including hardware (except bearing bolts) for $313 shipped on ebay. Good guess cux. What a great time we live in. Will report back if I have any issues

 

The axle nuts are different along with that the hex cap and the spring washer. .....If you want to use the latest 370z parts.
The bolts for the axle to diff are different for the 370z. Slightly longer as the 370z axle has a wider flange. And some don't use washers and nuts as the flange is threaded on certain years.
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So, after my measurements of the upper control arms. 350z= 12inch , 370z is 12 3/8inch.
So it seems the control arms are longer on the 370z. As well,the subframe mount point are slightly wider (1/4inch). This is why the Axles are longer for the 370z. (Min 0.5 longer each)

I know members are running these axles and bearings on a 350z rear end but I personally would not due to potential binding through the suspension arc. Due what you wish with that info! Just keep us all informed on the success or not!
I will be running my 370z subframe along with 370z upper am and adjustable toe , traction and camber arms. This ensures my 370z axles are setup fine and I have extra track width from these mods.

 

oh boy, we'll see what happens, I'll listen for binding, I think it will happen under hard accel when the axle is straightened out. I believe it would be at it's fulcrum as the suspension squats

Luckily mine came with axle nuts, but Missing one washer so need that.

I've got the longer bolts coming in, but no nuts for them. The axles I got are thru-holes so hopefully they share the same thread pitch as the z33 bolts.

Will report back, thank you for the added information. Hopefully a dealer has that washer in stock

 

Who knows, its working for at least one member! They are easy to take apart and inspect for any issues as well. Also, considering the low cost of the axles not much to lose.

I believe you are safe using the 350z nuts. They are a different part number but I dont think they changed thread/pitch.

 

Alright fellas I pulled it off today without a hitch. Long story short, you'll need the bearings/hubs (one piece anyway), axles, axle nuts, axle nut washers, and that's it.

I used the old axle flange bolts because they were actually longer than the ones I bought from a 2011 370z. A g37 may be a different story, but the parts guys were struggling so I took it upon myself. I just used red loc-tite instead of the lock washers and have full axial thread engagement. Will monitor.

The fulcrum is at stock ride height, so being lowered there will most likely never be any binding, especially under load.

win-win... More robust parts and cheaper hub/bearings if they were to fail again. Would definitely recommend. Will report back if any issues arise.

 

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