I am looking to pull a trailer to Autocross to bring tires and be able to bging additional tools to track days. Is anyone aware of a package offer for addition of a trailer hitch?

 

I did ask it a while ago...

I want something that is COMPLETELY hidden by rear bumper when is not necessary. I saw it for Miatas somewhere. It's like the part with hitch itself has a U shape and attaches to some hidden structure covered by bumper.

Here is a link for autox trailer itself:
http://www.mainstreet-data.com/trailer/

 

Haha...good luck. I've went as far as looking into having something custom fabricated to fit onto the Z to tow a couple sets of wheels/tires. There isn't even anything to bolt a hitch or support member onto at the rear of the car. I've come to the conclusion that the Z engineers made it that way on purpose since they would cry if they ever saw one of their creations towing anything.

I'm probably about to sell my daily driver for an old truck
That way I can tow the whole damn car plus all my crap with it.

 

If there is a will there is a way... I guess you just didn't look hard enough

 

I am working on a Hitch Plan B for a track trailer for my Z (Z Zoom model TM).

It starts with the new Injen dual exhaust that takes the OEM muffler out and offers a large center gap for hitch intall.

My local welder and I have worked out a plan to bolt on a type 1 reciever vertically to the rear body member.

He will then add a 90 degree (right angle up) extention on my ball/hitch unit. It will slip up into the reciever and double pin into place.

That should offer a good hitch for my light weight Z Zoom TM 4x4 mini trailer with track tires and tool box that will be unseen when the hitch unit is removed. May add 1 ft to trailer bed for 2 bicyles.

Plan waiting for the Injen dual delivery next month. Waiting on Plan B. Come on Injen!!

 

I have a pretty slick hitch on my car. It's completely invisible and light-weight.

Basically, I welded a 1-1/4" receiver tube to a .25" steel plate and located that on the front side of the rear bumper. A matching steel plate is installed on the rear of the bumper, and the bumper is sandwiched between the plates and the 'sandwich' is bolted together with 5/16" bolts. The receiver sits vertically between the bumper and the muffler (I'm not sure it will work with the large stock muffler, but my Hi-Tech system has a smaller muffler and there is plenty of room). I had an insert built and install it from the bottom.

It's clean and effective. It isn't an "install and forget" approach like a typical permanent, chassis-mounted rig -- Nissan attaches the bumper to the car with four modest bolts -- but I keep an eye on things and expect to have good success with it.

The enclosed trailer I built weighs about 400 lbs fully loaded and has no effect on the car's travelling performance or stability, but makes a huge difference in fuel economy (I suspect the aero-drag is the problem); I normally get 29-30 at 70, and with the trailer I get 21-22.

 

I don't guess you have any detailed pics to show a fabricator if one wanted to duplicate this do you?

 

I've attached a photo collage. I'll re-measure and make a drawing to post.

 

Cool! That's exactly what I had in mind for myself.
Can you please post some less puzzling pictures?

Thanks!

 

Here is one with call-outs:

 

Okay, here:

 

Here is a diagram:

 

thanks!

 

This is a good thread. Right now I'm suckering friends who own cars with backseats to drive my track wheels to the track for me or just stuffing them inside the Z and packing light but it's a suboptimal solution.

I'd really like to have a trailer (and don't care if the hitch/receiver) is visible when not in use.

Lateapex - so do you think your system would work with the stock exhaust or not?

 

Actually, I think there is just enough room with the stock muffler.

A few more notes:

I installed an 'anti-rattle bolt', because there is a lot of clearance between the keeper pin and the holes it uses. I drilled and tapped into the tube (you can see it in the photos), and I tighten the bolt and then snug the locknut to keep the insert from smacking around on the inside of the receiver tube. I recommend you have the holes enlarged to an accurate 5/8 and use a class III pin -- that might make the car quiet enough (it's very noisy in the minimal-insulation Z).

Also, I drilled oversized holes in the rear plate and used carriage bolts, which will grip the plate, in case the nuts have to be retightened.

Finally, there is an aluminum bumper over-ride that will have to be removed. The space it occupies in the bumper shock-absorbing foam was filled up by screwing a piece of 1/4" plywood to the inside of the foam. The heads of the carriage bolts and the wood was more or less equal to the over-ride thickness.

I'll measure things over the weekend and post some accurate numbers.

 

Lateapex, your the man. I am all ears. Thanks for the help.

Did you have to remove the bumpre cover to do this install or were you able to do this from under the car?

I had also asked Nissan NA but so far, about one week, the rep. says they are still waiting for a reply for Japan.

 

Yes, you have to remove the bumper skin. I removed the bumper and installed the receiver on my workbench. Also, I worked up the wiring while the rear was off the car -- much easier.

If you tackle this, let me know, because there is a trick to reinstalling the skin.

 

I will probably wait for Nissan's reply prior to deciding. I just want to complete this activity this summer. If I do I will ask for you suggestion. I also have the CD of the service manual.

 

The actual measurements of the receiver tube position is 2-1/2" below the top edge of the steel plate, and 2-1/2" below the bottom edge of the plate. Which means the tube needs to be shortened to 5" prior to welding.

Here is a diagram of the insert dimensions:

 

... and here is a couple of shots of my trailer: