DIY for stock non-Brembo to stock Brembo brakes
random question:
Do you guys think it's ok if I wait a couple days between doing the front caliper swap and the rears? I only have time at nights for a couple hrs of work on the car so I don't think I can do all 4 at once.
The air that gets in the lines when I swap the fronts won't go up to the master cylinder and cause issues during the time I wait until doing the rears will it?
Thanks!
Do you guys think it's ok if I wait a couple days between doing the front caliper swap and the rears? I only have time at nights for a couple hrs of work on the car so I don't think I can do all 4 at once.
The air that gets in the lines when I swap the fronts won't go up to the master cylinder and cause issues during the time I wait until doing the rears will it?
Thanks!
It would be best to do them all at once however if you are forced to do two at a time: You will definayely need to bleed the two calipers you place on the car as to avoid brake issues. Just remember these are vital to your safety and not something you want to take chances with.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: earth
About the bolts, Nosurf2day is close, but metric doesnt use grade 5, 6, etc...your confusing SAE...
Metric uses 4.4, 8.8 and 10.9, etc....
So everyone is clear, when swapping OEM single piston brakes to OEM brembos you need the oem rear bolts OR you can go out and purchase metric bolts to replace them.
BOLTS NEEDED FOR REAR CALIPER MOUNTING - 4 EACH TOTAL:
Same length 35mm + use old washer when installing
Same Diameter: 12mm
Thread pattern has changed from fine to medium 1.75
STRENGTH 10.9
Flanged hex head:
I highly recommend purchasing Flanged Hex head bolts like this:
Notice how the bolt is 16mm hex head and flanged.
16mm hex bolt clearance when installing:
WHY? well when it comes to installing or removing the rear caliper bolts, having the 16mm hex is easy to use with an extension and breaker bar! the orignal bolt is a big hex, i belive 19mm and a 19mm socket doesnt fit and hits the lower control arm (radius rod) on the bottom caliper bolt. A 16mm socket fits great and clears the radius rod when removing. Just some FYI.
USE OF OLD WASHER:
OK, next, the length of the bolt is 35mm, however, prior to torquing down the bolt ensure that the bolt does NOT come in contact with the rotor.
Use a flash light and ensure there is adequate clearance. IF it is close, use the original washer that was paired with the original non brembo brake caliper bolts you removed. The washer is a typical M12 steel washer and is about 2mm thick giving just the right amount of clearance if needed.
BOLT SHANK:
Also, you want a bolt that has shank under the head then threads for the last section of the bolt, you preferably dont want a full threaded bolt.
For this, paying the 4 bucks each for oem bolts from your local nissan dealership may be worth while unless you can source some bolts with shank.
Bolt with shank in aluminum rear knuckle section instead of threads in the knuckle:
At 35mm length, finding a shanked bolt my be quite hard! your call...
Hope that helps some...
-J
Metric uses 4.4, 8.8 and 10.9, etc....
So everyone is clear, when swapping OEM single piston brakes to OEM brembos you need the oem rear bolts OR you can go out and purchase metric bolts to replace them.
BOLTS NEEDED FOR REAR CALIPER MOUNTING - 4 EACH TOTAL:
Same length 35mm + use old washer when installing
Same Diameter: 12mm
Thread pattern has changed from fine to medium 1.75
STRENGTH 10.9
Flanged hex head:
I highly recommend purchasing Flanged Hex head bolts like this:
Notice how the bolt is 16mm hex head and flanged.
16mm hex bolt clearance when installing:
WHY? well when it comes to installing or removing the rear caliper bolts, having the 16mm hex is easy to use with an extension and breaker bar! the orignal bolt is a big hex, i belive 19mm and a 19mm socket doesnt fit and hits the lower control arm (radius rod) on the bottom caliper bolt. A 16mm socket fits great and clears the radius rod when removing. Just some FYI.
USE OF OLD WASHER:
OK, next, the length of the bolt is 35mm, however, prior to torquing down the bolt ensure that the bolt does NOT come in contact with the rotor.
Use a flash light and ensure there is adequate clearance. IF it is close, use the original washer that was paired with the original non brembo brake caliper bolts you removed. The washer is a typical M12 steel washer and is about 2mm thick giving just the right amount of clearance if needed.
BOLT SHANK:
Also, you want a bolt that has shank under the head then threads for the last section of the bolt, you preferably dont want a full threaded bolt.
For this, paying the 4 bucks each for oem bolts from your local nissan dealership may be worth while unless you can source some bolts with shank.
Bolt with shank in aluminum rear knuckle section instead of threads in the knuckle:
At 35mm length, finding a shanked bolt my be quite hard! your call...
Hope that helps some...
-J
part number is 080444501A BOLT.
does anyone know this bolt thread size / pitch?
local nissan dealer, " we dont give out specs" B.S.???
this bolt...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/0804445...8-p-16109.html
thanks in advance
Last edited by rafiG; May 9, 2012 at 07:17 AM.
Registered User
Joined: May 2012
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From: earth
Can't you just check the other bolts that you have?
Maybe I'm just not understanding the dilemma correctly.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 6
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From: earth
i just dont have that tool where you can measure the thread.
some auto parts stores have that to lend out or use in store, right?
He has the bolts he just needs to measure them. I understand now. Ok try a home depot or a lowes. They usually have measuring devices in their nuts/bolts section. Or find an employee who can measure it for you. Or worst case dig through the bolts and start lining them up till you find a match and then you will know.
Registered User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: earth
He has the bolts he just needs to measure them. I understand now. Ok try a home depot or a lowes. They usually have measuring devices in their nuts/bolts section. Or find an employee who can measure it for you. Or worst case dig through the bolts and start lining them up till you find a match and then you will know.
thanks Michla
Gotcha. That sucks. I sure hope you thread in by hand slowly to make sure bolts are threading in correctly before you start wrenching on stuff. Just saying- people do think stuff will just catch on its own etc. Anyways---GL with getting it squared away or sure.
For those that upgraded your from non-brembo to Brembos. What are you using as your spare tire now?
I realized after taking a 5 hr road trip that the spare that came with my enthusiast is only 16" which will definitely not clear the brembos. Luckly I didn't need to use it. So where do I find a spare that will fit over the Brembos?
I realized after taking a 5 hr road trip that the spare that came with my enthusiast is only 16" which will definitely not clear the brembos. Luckly I didn't need to use it. So where do I find a spare that will fit over the Brembos?
I keep another set of rims/tires as spares / temporary incase i have a flat or anything. But yeah that usually means having the wife grab the tool / tires and head my way. Spares are some cheap but decent atech's (sold in US as MB motorsports):
Last edited by Michla22; Jun 16, 2012 at 02:56 AM.
Hey,
I'm planning on doing this swap in the very near future.
I heard that pedal travel would be terrible and something about the master cylinder and that they may be required to be swapped.
When I did some further research I'm getting mixed things but someone has found that the master cylinders are indeed the same but the booster is different for roadster/coupe brembos and non brembos.
In either case the mechanic at this tuning shop said that since I was going from a two piston non brembo to a six piston brembo that I would need to do a master cylinder swap.
Have you noticed any pedal issues since your swap?
And would anything master cylinder related need to be swapped?
I'm planning on doing this swap in the very near future.
I heard that pedal travel would be terrible and something about the master cylinder and that they may be required to be swapped.
When I did some further research I'm getting mixed things but someone has found that the master cylinders are indeed the same but the booster is different for roadster/coupe brembos and non brembos.
In either case the mechanic at this tuning shop said that since I was going from a two piston non brembo to a six piston brembo that I would need to do a master cylinder swap.
Have you noticed any pedal issues since your swap?
And would anything master cylinder related need to be swapped?
I've read that as well as far as the booster. In my personal experience going from the stock brakes to the stock Brembos - there wasn't much of a difference in pedal feel at all and everything held up great. I had the Brembos on for about 5 years with no issues at all. The stock Brembos should be 4 pot front and 2 pot rear btw unless you got some bigger ones that were not OEM from 03-09.
I have recently changes brakes again and have been running on another bbk with 6 pot front and 4 pot rear without switching anything out - once again no issues with pedal or anything else for that matter so far.
I have recently changes brakes again and have been running on another bbk with 6 pot front and 4 pot rear without switching anything out - once again no issues with pedal or anything else for that matter so far.
I forgot which thread but someone posted the specs where the serial was different.