I have some Hawk HPS pads for Brembos. Tried to get them installed this morning by my Nissan dealer.. There telling me that the Front pads are to large for the calipers, and they won't fit, they said they measured them and there 0.8mm larger than stock!! I did question that 0.8mm isn't allot, but there sure they won't fit!!!

The rear pads fitted without any problems!!

I double checked on performance nissan that they had sent me the right pads, and i'm 100% they have.

Please someone tell me what the dealer is doing wrong?? They must be missing something!!!??

Help!!!

 

Dealership is wrong. The front ones are a little tighter, as they are thicker and requires you to either shave a little off the pad or tap it in with a hammer. I choose the tapping method.

 

They did say that they might go in if tapped with a hammer, but they weren't willing do so this as 'Stock' ones just slide straight in. And they also said that this may cause the brakes to lock on!!! Which i couldn't really understand why this would happen...

Also queenz350z do you have the brembo calipers???

 

If they don't want to tap it in, tell them to shave the pad off a little. I do have brembo's on my Z.

 

Actually, I don't know why you asked the dealership to install the pads. You can do it yourself in like 10 mins.

 

They arn't willing to shave the pad!!

And when you say shave the pad, you talking about the top and bottom edge, so it slides in the caliper easier??

Like i have put in the picture??

 

Shave The Backing Plate, Not The Pad Itself!!!!!!!!!!! Just where you have the arrows in the picture. It doesn't take much. I used a table grinder....I'm they have something there at the dealer. Hell, take it back home and DIY.

-Steve

 

tbh, i was going to try, but never changed any before, and the only write-ups i can find are the standard calipers the non-track US car's come with, not the brembo's...

Is there allot of difference??

 

Yes that what he is saying.

 

Alex, the Brembo's are so easy to change brakes on....probably easier than regular setups. It's mindless work.

1. Remove wheel
2. Pull cotter pins from backside of caliper which are attached to two pins that run across top of calipers.
3. Remove 2 pins and little spring that pops out
4. Pull out old pads
5. Use old pad to compress cylinder back into caliper
6. Replace new pad by dropping it in
7. Repeat with other pad
8. Replace pins and spring plate
9. Replace cotter pins
10. Replace wheel and torque to specs
11. Drive carefully and properly break in those hawks

 

Thanks steve, I might have to give it a go!!!

And there isn't really a problem in tapping them in?? Could they possibly get stuck in the caliper?? If i was to force them in??

 

Alex, don't tap them in.....just grind them a bit. It really isn't much. I did like three passes on the bench grinder on each side and they fit nice. If you were close, I'd do it for you. But, you're on the other side of the pond....See if the shop will do it for you or go to another shop. I would say at least to NOT tap them in. You don't want to break anything. Plus, remember that you have to remove them eventually and that would be a real pain in the a$$ if they were wedged in place. It's just not safe to tap them in...they're a moving part....they can't be too tight of a fit.

Good luck,
Steve

 

Thanks for the info steve, shame you can't install them for me!!! haha...

So how much would you say is needed to grind off!! 1mm each end?? Surely this could be done with a hand file??

 

It's a small amount. You would probably get better results with a hand file because you don't grind much off at a time. Just take your time and they will work. Just keep filing and testing. You will know it is right when they drop in with a snug fit. Also, this fitment problem only applies to the fronts. The rears drop right in. I called Hawk about this and I was pissed. Oh well, just another lesson.

Have fun,
Steve

 

Oh yeah Alex, do one wheel at a time so you can look at the other as a reference of what it should look like when you are done!! It really is simple and you shouldn't pay anyone to do this. Let me know how it goes.

-Steve

 

When compressing the cylinder back into caliper, do you need to open the bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid overflow from the master-cylinder? This question is for the non-Brembo brake. Also, I forgot to properly brake in the Hawk pads and now it's squeaking, is there anything I can do now to make it go away? Thanks

 

when swapping to the hawk pads, is it really needed to turn the rotors? or will the pads wear to the surface of the rotor as is..? (Brembo setup)

 

de vision,
It is not necessary to open the bleeder valve. Remember that the brake system is a closed one and you should not lose any fluid under normal driving conditions. You would only open the bleeder when you are actually bleeding the brakes. When your pads wear, this is compensated with the fluid level getting lower;, IOW, there is more fluid in the caliper due to more compression of the piston. Now, if you added brake fluid because you thought it was low and then you go and put in new brakes, then simply remove the excess from the reservior. Does that make sense? This applies to all brake systems as it is simply fluid dynamics that drives the system.

jerera 350,
It is not necessary unless your previous pads put in some etching like a vinyl record. Run a fingernail across a COOL rotor and see if you can feel significant ridges. If so, then get them turned. If the pads you are replacing are in good condition, then don't worry about turning the rotors. More aggressive pads will wear the rotors more, but I would not consider the Hawk's to be an agressive pad.

-Steve

 

Hmm, I apologize... I guess I should have elaborate a little bit more. Mine were actually not that hard to push in. It was just a little bit bigger than stock so I just "slightly" tapped it in.

Scubasteve- What harm could I have done by tapping it in?

 

Grinded a small amount of and fitted the first time!!! It's not a very good show by Hawk though, are they planning on sorting this issue.

Thanks again for the help!