DIY: Cutting Rear Springmount
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 0
From: Seattle/Portland
I posted over at g35driver.com, but seemed like it might be helpful over here as well.
I decided to purchase a new set up rear springmounts and recut them, taking a little bit less off this time. Credit goes to Gsedan35, who was the first to do this, and Borahatch for giving me tips on how to go about cutting the mounts.
See Gsedan35's DIY on installing springs to remove the rear springmounts.
http://www.g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=25
The pieces look something like this:
Side

Top

Tools:
Hacksaw
Tape
C-Clamp
Vise
WD-40 or similar lubricating spray
Rags
Start by taping a ring around the springmount of exactly how much you want to cut off. How much you cut will be how much more drop you will get so measure accordingly before cutting. I used Duct tape, but anything will work as long as it sticks to the rubber. I don't recommend blue painter's tape, because I used it the first time and it doesn't really stick to the rubber.

Next, get a rag or in my case some disposable gloves and insert into the hollowed out end of the springmount to provide a cushioned area for the C-clamp to seat to. Install the C-Clamp like in the picture and tighten until the springmount is difficult to rotate/move. Make sure to not overclamp or you can crack the plastic.


Insert the C-Clamp into your vise to provide a stable cutting rig

Get out your hacksaw and WD-40 or equiv

Begin by lubricating your hacksaw blade and springmount by spraying WD-40 onto the blade and rubber, and begin sawing along your tapeline. The outer ring of the springmount is rubber, but the inner ring is made of a plastic, so saw through the plastic. Loosen the clamp and rotate the mount 1 notch and retighten and continue sawing until you cut all the way around the mount, being careful to cut as straight and evenly as you can.

Once you finish cutting, you should end up with something that looks like this, they aren't exactly straight, but close enough, I've been running them for 6 months and no problems here


Here is a comparison of the height difference after cutting, ~1/2"

Reinstall in stock location

End up with a even drop! Dropped on 350z Tein H-Techs, but will work with any spring



Be prepared for camber issues in the rear, just like any drop in the rear over 0.4", I installed the SPC rear camber kit as well and will be getting an alignment soon.
I decided to purchase a new set up rear springmounts and recut them, taking a little bit less off this time. Credit goes to Gsedan35, who was the first to do this, and Borahatch for giving me tips on how to go about cutting the mounts.
See Gsedan35's DIY on installing springs to remove the rear springmounts.
http://www.g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=25
The pieces look something like this:
Side

Top

Tools:
Hacksaw
Tape
C-Clamp
Vise
WD-40 or similar lubricating spray
Rags
Start by taping a ring around the springmount of exactly how much you want to cut off. How much you cut will be how much more drop you will get so measure accordingly before cutting. I used Duct tape, but anything will work as long as it sticks to the rubber. I don't recommend blue painter's tape, because I used it the first time and it doesn't really stick to the rubber.

Next, get a rag or in my case some disposable gloves and insert into the hollowed out end of the springmount to provide a cushioned area for the C-clamp to seat to. Install the C-Clamp like in the picture and tighten until the springmount is difficult to rotate/move. Make sure to not overclamp or you can crack the plastic.


Insert the C-Clamp into your vise to provide a stable cutting rig

Get out your hacksaw and WD-40 or equiv

Begin by lubricating your hacksaw blade and springmount by spraying WD-40 onto the blade and rubber, and begin sawing along your tapeline. The outer ring of the springmount is rubber, but the inner ring is made of a plastic, so saw through the plastic. Loosen the clamp and rotate the mount 1 notch and retighten and continue sawing until you cut all the way around the mount, being careful to cut as straight and evenly as you can.

Once you finish cutting, you should end up with something that looks like this, they aren't exactly straight, but close enough, I've been running them for 6 months and no problems here


Here is a comparison of the height difference after cutting, ~1/2"

Reinstall in stock location

End up with a even drop! Dropped on 350z Tein H-Techs, but will work with any spring



Be prepared for camber issues in the rear, just like any drop in the rear over 0.4", I installed the SPC rear camber kit as well and will be getting an alignment soon.
Oh cool thanks for the tip. I picked up my set from the dealer Friday and tried to figure out how the hell to cut them with a vise and hacksaw. The C-clamp trick should help make it much easier because those things are a pain in the a$$ to cut. I was about to toss them but I'lll try the c-clamp trick first.
I have kind of a dumb question but do the wheels need to be removed from the car to switch out these bushings? I'm going to have the alignment shop switch out the bushings for me, since they need to do an alignment anyway.
I have kind of a dumb question but do the wheels need to be removed from the car to switch out these bushings? I'm going to have the alignment shop switch out the bushings for me, since they need to do an alignment anyway.
Last edited by Chad68; Jan 29, 2007 at 02:43 AM.
Oh ok.
Well I got them both cut and ready to be installed and algined. Can't wait. When they're in I will have 3/8"s gap front and about 5/8" gap rear. Rear gap was a tiny bit over 1". I could have taken off enough to level the car out but I want to have a tiny bit of rake left.
If anybody is going to do this with a hacksaw, the WD40 is a must.
Well I got them both cut and ready to be installed and algined. Can't wait. When they're in I will have 3/8"s gap front and about 5/8" gap rear. Rear gap was a tiny bit over 1". I could have taken off enough to level the car out but I want to have a tiny bit of rake left.
If anybody is going to do this with a hacksaw, the WD40 is a must.
Last edited by Chad68; Jan 31, 2007 at 07:07 PM.
sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!
On a perfectlly level shop floor, I now have 3/8" wheel gap on the front and 5/8" gap on the rears. Exactlly what I wanted!! Perfectlly the same gaps on the left and right sides. Gaps were measured at the middle of the wheel well arc of the fender, to the higest (flatest) part of the tire.
Looks sick now and rides the same. I think the rear may actually feel more planted now but maybe it's my imagination.
On a perfectlly level shop floor, I now have 3/8" wheel gap on the front and 5/8" gap on the rears. Exactlly what I wanted!! Perfectlly the same gaps on the left and right sides. Gaps were measured at the middle of the wheel well arc of the fender, to the higest (flatest) part of the tire.
Looks sick now and rides the same. I think the rear may actually feel more planted now but maybe it's my imagination.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by z-u-later
How long did it take you guys on just cutting the spring mount? Not including the tire/spring removal, just hacking on the spring mount.
Originally Posted by adrianko43
It took me about 5 minutes each.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lt_Ballzacki
Brakes & Suspension
39
Aug 6, 2021 06:19 AM
ars88
Zs & Gs For Sale
18
Apr 4, 2016 07:52 AM




