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Picture Request: Hotchkis Springs w/ "Rear Spring Mount Mod"

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 08:56 PM
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Default Picture Request: Hotchkis Springs w/ "Rear Spring Mount Mod"

I finally decided to pick up a set of the Hotchkis TVS coils, and was just wondering what it would look like with these particular springs with .25" - .5" shaved off of the rear spring mounts to level the drop out. I know the Hotchkis' sit a little high in the rear.

Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:06 PM
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it would probably look level or it would look .25" lower in the rear at least
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxlino
it would probably look level or it would look .25" lower in the rear at least
geez thanks

can you blame me for wanting to look at Z pics?
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:06 AM
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This is exactly what I'm planning on doing- the springmount mod will be this weekend and the springs will be next weekend. If everything goes to plan I hope to have the car a little lower and level all around.

From what I've read this I think will be the best solution for a decently lowered car that retains a decent ride and doesn't blow out the stock shocks as quick as other springs.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:59 AM
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Did you already install the springs? The Hotchkis springs drop the car more in the rear than the front. I really wouldn't take off more than a 1/4" with these springs. Put them on and see how you like the drop. If you want to do the mod later the rear springs take 5 minutes to pop out.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 1nate7
Did you already install the springs? The Hotchkis springs drop the car more in the rear than the front. I really wouldn't take off more than a 1/4" with these springs. Put them on and see how you like the drop. If you want to do the mod later the rear springs take 5 minutes to pop out.
You're right about the order, but look at these pics of a hotchkis lowered Z:

Tell me the rear doesn't look like it could use at least another .25"

But hey, NOT doing the spring mount chop would lower any risk of me having camber issues with the hotchkis. The way I figure, I like what i hear about the hotchkis ride, but the eibach 1" pro kit drop is a little nicer to me..so i can make up for the lesser drop in the rear with the cut. And supposedly a 1" drop in the rear will be a 50/50 shot of having to get a camber kit to correct negative camber


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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:20 AM
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I think overall that it's safer to do the springs first, then measure after they've seated and cut your springmounts after that to even things out.

I'm cutting mine first because I'm impatient. Plus you can always order new ones for cheap.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by cheshirecat79
I think overall that it's safer to do the springs first, then measure after they've seated and cut your springmounts after that to even things out.

I'm cutting mine first because I'm impatient. Plus you can always order new ones for cheap.

How long does it take for springs to seat? I need mileage because i don't drive my car that much so "3 weeks" won't mean a thing to me.

I'll probably do that first I suppose, and just cut the mounts if want to later. Just want to do that right before I get the alignment after the springs properly seat so I'm not throwing away money.

Should you get an alignment even though the Hotchkis drop is subtle? I'd assume so.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by blackfairlady
How long does it take for springs to seat? I need mileage because i don't drive my car that much so "3 weeks" won't mean a thing to me.

I'll probably do that first I suppose, and just cut the mounts if want to later. Just want to do that right before I get the alignment after the springs properly seat so I'm not throwing away money.

Should you get an alignment even though the Hotchkis drop is subtle? I'd assume so.
Some people say you can go over a speed bump about 10 times and get them to seat properly- others say that you need to drive it for 300 miles. Whatever. Either way give it a bit of time.

I would recommend you get an alignment after you've done your springs and springmount mod. The camber will be a little off but the drop should be below the .7'' limit so your camber should be able to be put back into spec without a kit. You should do it just for the even wear on your tires. Whichever way you go, just make sure you get the alignment after you've finished your suspension modding.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cheshirecat79
Some people say you can go over a speed bump about 10 times and get them to seat properly- others say that you need to drive it for 300 miles. Whatever. Either way give it a bit of time.

I would recommend you get an alignment after you've done your springs and springmount mod. The camber will be a little off but the drop should be below the .7'' limit so your camber should be able to be put back into spec without a kit. You should do it just for the even wear on your tires. Whichever way you go, just make sure you get the alignment after you've finished your suspension modding.
I will promptly get an alignment done at 300ish then!

.7" huh? After my spring mount mod the rear should be right at 1". Judging by the above pics that should make it level. Or maybe .5" cut? Idk.

I'd probably need a camber kit if I cut .5" right? What would you do?
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cheshirecat79
Some people say you can go over a speed bump about 10 times and get them to seat properly- others say that you need to drive it for 300 miles. Whatever. Either way give it a bit of time.

I would recommend you get an alignment after you've done your springs and springmount mod. The camber will be a little off but the drop should be below the .7'' limit so your camber should be able to be put back into spec without a kit. You should do it just for the even wear on your tires. Whichever way you go, just make sure you get the alignment after you've finished your suspension modding.
I will promptly get an alignment done at 300ish then!

.7" huh? After my spring mount mod the rear should be right at 1". Judging by the above pics that should make it level. Or maybe .5" cut? Idk.

I'd def need a camber kit if I did a .5" cuz the rear would be at 1.25" total drop. But it looks so good

I'm torn....I'll just do the springs...drive 300...cut if necessary, then align her.

Thanks a lot cheshirecat79 <--(Why Cheshire? One of my best friends is from Cheshire, CT)
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Check out the marketplace vendor suspension forum. They have camber correction kits for the rear only that are right around $170.

... and it's Cheshire because of the Cat! see avatar.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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I'd be interested in your before and after ride heights. I never got the fully advertised drop of 19mm advertised. I bought the Hotchkis b/c I liked the idea of dropping the rear more than the front but I need to have a full tank of gas just to make the drop level.

read more here:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....light=hotchkis

I'm also thinking now that I may need to replace the shocks sooner than anticipated. I was reading my ride review in the above thread and I'm starting to think they are getting pretty worn after only about 2600 miles.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
I'd be interested in your before and after ride heights. I never got the fully advertised drop of 19mm advertised. I bought the Hotchkis b/c I liked the idea of dropping the rear more than the front but I need to have a full tank of gas just to make the drop level.

read more here:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....light=hotchkis

I'm also thinking now that I may need to replace the shocks sooner than anticipated. I was reading my ride review in the above thread and I'm starting to think they are getting pretty worn after only about 2600 miles.
From what I understood, the shocks with the hotchkis wouldn't be beat up as bad. 2600 Miles huh? Wow.

If your springs are fully seated I would recommend the springmount mod- just measure your wheel gap in front and cut the difference off the back and even that sucker out.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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Well it's all subjective...the fronts just don't feel like they are able to keep up with the spring rates not to mention the rear spring rate is actually lower than my stock rate (04.5), so those definitely aren't even close to being matched correctly.

If and when I do the shocks I will definitely go with the cut seat mod and deal with aligning again.

I wonder what Hotchkis recommends shock-wise?
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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I'm not sure but I heard that the Toiko<sp> D-spec is supposed to work well with them. I <think> that's right, anyway.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cheshirecat79
I'm not sure but I heard that the Toiko<sp> D-spec is supposed to work well with them. I <think> that's right, anyway.
That's the combo I have. It's wonderful
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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Here is mine with the whole Hotchkis TVS

Last edited by cdoxp800; Jan 1, 2009 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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Looks awesome. That's such a great kit for the money. I think it would look even better with some spacers- from that angle the wheels look a little tucked. almost hard to tell.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
I'd be interested in your before and after ride heights. I never got the fully advertised drop of 19mm advertised. I bought the Hotchkis b/c I liked the idea of dropping the rear more than the front but I need to have a full tank of gas just to make the drop level.

read more here:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....light=hotchkis

I'm also thinking now that I may need to replace the shocks sooner than anticipated. I was reading my ride review in the above thread and I'm starting to think they are getting pretty worn after only about 2600 miles.
Could ya not? lol

I just got back from picking my springs up
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