went over a curb doing about 40mph 5 years ago.

I have strong suspicion that caused it. it blew out and bent all 4 tires and rims at the time. otherwise, no damage.

however, the camber has forever been off. I mean, seriously off, enough that I get 8-10k miles from a set of tires; only the inner lip getting worn out. and with 275 rears, with 35psi, the outer lip of the tire is barely even on the ground.

Ive just dealt with it for the longest time, but Id like to maybe consider fixing it if I could.

Id get a coilover kit, or adjustable control arms, or whatever would replace whatever I must have bent, but I dont know what i bent. so I could replace it, and end up worse then I started(since I think most aftermarket stuff puts a little negative camber in on purpose)

Ive looked and looked, I cant see anything visibly bent, but who knows, when we're talking 4 or 5 degrees, its not gonna be real obvious I dont think.

throw out ideas if you have any clue what would be the most at risk part to bend and cause it.

its only on the rear btw, fronts seem fine.

 

Taken it to a shop that does alignments and have them take a look at it?

 

I tried that. well I tried trying that.

I found 1 shop willing to touch it, for 500$ they would do an alignment.

of course thats retarded, its the same shop that wanted 300$ to balance my tires to like 600mph or something.

any normal shop for whatever reason doesnt have the equipment to align 9.5" rims. they arent that big these days, but I guess they dont upgrade, or I cant find a shop that has.

 

9.5" wide? Width shouldn't matter at all, just to do an alignment. As long as the head mounts to the outer lip, you should be good.

Have any pics of the rear suspension? Could've bent a number of things, I imagine.

 

Ill get a picture of it tomorrow if I can.

 

maybe the diameter matters cuz I've seen my shop do the alignment to my car and they put it between wheel and tire. x4 on each wheel. it holds and they have the laser beam or someshet.. that shows the angle on the computer screen.

+ professional race alignment shouldn't go over 100~150 imo 600 is rediculus!!!

personally got mine for 60 bucks in Socal.

 

Diameter definitely matters. Most Hunter racks that you'll find in a Midas, Sears, etc, the heads will only support up to a ~20 inch wheel. Beyond that a special head or head extender is required for the arms to reach the lip on the wheel. Shops that routinely deal in vehicles with larger than normal wheels will tend to have such equipment readily available, however.

 

1/10" error will add 1.0 degrees of camber.
Not unusually for frame/subframe/shock towers to bend from curb hits and other impacts.

Body shops/insurance almost never replace enough parts to bring every parameter back to perfect NOMINAL.

Every 6 month alignments with computer print outs are your reference [proof] when forcing insurance to restore to near new parameters.

 

problem is its 5 years passed at this point. no way to bring insurance into it. might have to just keep dealing with it.

 

ever try to photograph suspension? lol

well heres my attempt...

 

yeah, the tires gotta be replaced asap, you can see how horrid the tire wear issue is.

the other side is off, but not as much.


I dont know how it should look... I would bring it into the dealer, but wonder if they would even know either...

 

think this would do it?

http://www.mynismo.com/products/Default.asp?id=5967

I think 4degrees should be enough to bring it atleast to a reasonable "performance oriented" amount of camber, maybe not 0degrees, but not belts showing...

 

I guess, SPC camber/toe bolt for you..

 

The SPC camber kit would save you a lot of money on tires.

 

Remember the camber kits only MASK other problems .....why the camber is off in the first place! There may be asymetrical problems that allow good camber sitting still [while aligning] but are horrid at speed on road or in turning!

Why good alignment numbers may still result in bad tire life or problems after accidents.

 

dude my right rear tire looks just like your left rear. With the top tilting in and the bottom sticking out past the mudflap. Im took mine to 2 shops that said it was fine but around turns at 60-70mph the car starts to wobble and the SLIP light engages and applies brakes causing instability. Im bringing it to Nissan this week. I did hit a curb a few months ago but the problem didnt start until I put new tires on it? Possibly the idiot that mounted them put the jack on a suspension component and bent it...or it was a problem that came about from lifiting the car...