The rear passenger side wheel hub wobbles.
I found this out when I checked the rear brakes. I thought my car was slightly wandering on the road due to tire wear, but it turns out it's because of the wheel hub wobbling... even with the lug nuts torqued to 85 lb-ft.
What bolts should I check out first? The wheel hub wobbles (camber-wise for sure, not sure if it toe-wobbles), and I can see when I wobble the wheel hub, the drive shaft on the other side moves too.
The Service Manual shows that the Camber and Toe bolts can be turned and adjusted. Do those ever become loose or is there usually tension on them like the belt tensioner pulley? I had the alignment redone recently (when I went back to stock springs), so it wouldn't surprise me if they left a bolt loose. Any suggestions would be gladly received.

 

sounds like you got worse problems than a loose bolt.

 

a wobbling hub is not the result of a loose bolt, it's more likely a bad wheel bearing

 

Perhaps this is the result of my Nismo LSD chattering? I think I have one of the few Nismo LSD installs that kicks on the ABS sensors when it chatters. This chatter feels like it is so violent sometimes, perhaps it is throwing the axle laterally, and causing stress on the wheel bearing. And it finally gave up after 30K miles installed. Does that sound possible?
I'm planning to take her back in to the dealership that installed the Nismo. I have a VLSD (been planning to swap out the Nismo anyway).

 

certainly sounds possible

 

Z1, have you ever heard of anyone getting this symptom before? Any daily driver Nismo LSD installs, please chime in.

 

nope, not something I have heard of. Best bet is searching out other owners and ask, or simply consulting the dealer that sold it/installed it for you

 

It's not that expensive to replace hub bearings. Get it done.

 

Thanks for the encouragement.
But what about getting to the root cause? I'm going to push the dealership to look at their craftsmanship. I don't hear of very many Nismo LSD installs that kick on the ABS. Mine did ever since installation, and there were two problems. 1. they forgot to lock down the bolt on the ABS/speed sensor, and 2. even after locking it down, the ABS still kicks on when the LSD pops, but just a hell of a lot less than when they left the ABS sensor hanging loose.
I'm trying to address root cause. Is there anything I could say that would help push them to look at their own faulty install (if it is so)?

 

It could be a problem with them forgetting to install the shims properly when they installed the new LSD. That could cause the half shaft to wobble, which would set off the ABS as well.

But how long have you been running it like this?

Also, you track your car, right? That will accelerate the wear on your drive train, especially if it was installed incorrectly. Consider hubs as consumables if you're a track day enthusiast.

 

Yeah, I track my car, but haven't been in a year.

Holy $#!+ last night I tried to pull off the rotor to look at the hub and bearing, but no matter how many times we hit the hat, the rotor would not come off! Yeah, I'm gonna call my Service guy and let him know what a wonderful job they did on the installation of the LSD that lead up to this. spf4000, I think you hit the nail on the head:
The shaft was thrusted into the hub and the hub into the rotor due to improper shim.

 

Try backing off the E-brake adjuster first!

 

Yeah, I checked that. The E-Brake was down. We had her on jack stands and spun the rear to bang the rotor from all sorts of angles. But no matter what, it wouldn't come off!!!

I didn't tell the dealer that, but I'll let them find out when I take her in Monday.

 

Yep. I had the same problem. The dealership had to replace my bearings three times before they finally replace the entire hub assembly under warranty.

I track a lot...

 

I dropped my car off at the dealer for this today.

2 weeks ago I had my wheels off (on a jack, did it myself) no issues.

This morning I was getting my new tires mounted and the entire wheel, rotor, and axle would wobble inside the hub. Its either the hub or the bearing.

Hoping they don't try to deny warranty on this. Not enough mileage to justify the failure though so I see it as possible.

 

Adman, what was their justification for the bearings failing? The whole hub assembly was bad? What kind of suspension work do you have?
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BTW, to complete my story as the original poster, I should be getting my car back today (FINALLY!!!) and it was the bearing. Also, the rear end was most likely not shimmed correctly, which explains why I got so much backlash ever since I had the dealer put in the Nismo. I will be selling the Nismo LSD soon, and I am never going back to the dealer for work on the rear end of the car. Also, my suspension is back to stock, so that should help longevity of the bearings because they are no longer cambered and loaded with stress from a backlashing Nismo LSD.

It took me a long time to find a mechanic because so many alleged "DRIFTER" repair shops who claim to know about LSDs can't get better connections than Kragen or Napa. The mechanic I finally agreed to take my car to is very professional. He really appreciated that I got him all the specs and part numbers. If you're ever in Fresno for a few weeks and you want some work done on the rear, Fearless Gear is a good spot.

 

My whole hub was shot...hub and bearing will be done tomorrow.

Warranty FTW.

 

Yeah. Mine was the hub assembly. So, it didn't matter how many times they replaced the bearings. That is why they finally replaced everything. No problems since.

 

Adman, Peak, thanks for chiming in. I'll keep that in mind if the same corner gives me trouble. The hub is most expensive part though. It's listed at $120 from Performance Nissan (SoCal).

 

I'm having a similar issue. I just had a shop separate the old bearing and hub, press on a new bearing the the existing hub, and I have the exact same wobble. Everything torqued to spec (hub/bearing assembly to car, axle nut, lug nuts). Terribly frustrating to get the car apart and all put back together and find that I didn't fix anything.

Guess it's time to source both a hub and bearing and try again.. plus get my ARP studs swapped over.