Review: Bilstein PSS10 Coil Over Kit
10-05-2010, 09:57 PM
#64
Anyone have pix of the rear installed? I didnt use the rear rubber cone and for some reason my rear is really low. The highest height I can get out of the pss10 is aboud 1 finger gap in between the tires and frame.
Also, I'm noticing a sqeaking noise (almost like metal touching) when I make a wide left turn? Its either coming from the driver rear or front and I cant figure out what's going on bc I dont see anything touching or rubbing when I went under the car.
Also, I'm noticing a sqeaking noise (almost like metal touching) when I make a wide left turn? Its either coming from the driver rear or front and I cant figure out what's going on bc I dont see anything touching or rubbing when I went under the car.
10-05-2010, 11:35 PM
#65
No pics but I have about 2 fingers in the rear with about 10mm of usable travel left on the rear adjusters.
No squeaking here but a helpful tip to anyone with the PSS10's. If you get a metal rattle in the rear like a loose nut in the car (excluding driver) then it probably is the bump stop plate on the rear shocks as they move. Ripped the car fully apart trying to find the rattle. Took me over 6 months to find it and my sanity as it was not always constant.
You don't have some really over sized rubber on the rear do you?
No squeaking here but a helpful tip to anyone with the PSS10's. If you get a metal rattle in the rear like a loose nut in the car (excluding driver) then it probably is the bump stop plate on the rear shocks as they move. Ripped the car fully apart trying to find the rattle. Took me over 6 months to find it and my sanity as it was not always constant.
You don't have some really over sized rubber on the rear do you?
10-06-2010, 08:52 PM
#67
Anyone have pix of the rear installed? I didnt use the rear rubber cone and for some reason my rear is really low. The highest height I can get out of the pss10 is aboud 1 finger gap in between the tires and frame.
Also, I'm noticing a sqeaking noise (almost like metal touching) when I make a wide left turn? Its either coming from the driver rear or front and I cant figure out what's going on bc I dont see anything touching or rubbing when I went under the car.
Also, I'm noticing a sqeaking noise (almost like metal touching) when I make a wide left turn? Its either coming from the driver rear or front and I cant figure out what's going on bc I dont see anything touching or rubbing when I went under the car.
On the noise issue, look at the tops (underside) of the fender arches, look for tailtail black rubber deposits. What distance between the front suspension upright do your have to the front tire/wheel?
10-07-2010, 07:54 PM
#68
You cannot reuse the oem upper spring seat with the Bilstein design, but you would have rubber disk that came with the kit, which by means you should have used.
On the noise issue, look at the tops (underside) of the fender arches, look for tailtail black rubber deposits. What distance between the front suspension upright do your have to the front tire/wheel?
On the noise issue, look at the tops (underside) of the fender arches, look for tailtail black rubber deposits. What distance between the front suspension upright do your have to the front tire/wheel?
I was able to raise the rear of the car more (went CC instead, oops..lol) about 1.5 finger wheel gap now and for some reason the noise (metal scrapping) almost disappeared...heard it once while making many L turns and U turn and now nothing?!?
Also, what setting is the SOFTEST setting???? The manual states SOFT #10 but on my front coilovers, the **** shows the softest setting pting counter clockwise (#1)? Which direction is correct?
Now I'm getting a new problem... I get a clunking noise on the front passenger side when I brake hard or even go over bumps. I believe it's SPL version 2 camber kit but is there a solution to this?
Last edited by Mr_pharmD; 10-07-2010 at 07:55 PM.
10-07-2010, 10:13 PM
#69
LOL.. Least u worked it out. The plastic rings are not important but fitting them will help alleviate some of the niose when the spring moves on the spring seat. I would recomend putting these in.
If you have upgraded sway basrs or your endlinks are shot you may need new end links. A clunk or pop noise is common with new sways and oem endlinks
If you have upgraded sway basrs or your endlinks are shot you may need new end links. A clunk or pop noise is common with new sways and oem endlinks
12-20-2010, 10:12 AM
#73
The front helper springs never ever have any role in ride quality let alone providing any amount of spring stiffness to perform work. Their sole purpose is to provide tension to the main spring, theirby allowing a greater drop range. If your not going to run a excessive front drop, no reason why you can't run without them.
04-02-2014, 11:22 PM
#76
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Hi Pchio, Hi Folks
Any chance to recover the picture of the front coilovers, because I'm lost with the instalation and the Bilstein notice and the installing of the front stock upper mounts with the different nuts...
Thanks a lot for the help !
Any chance to recover the picture of the front coilovers, because I'm lost with the instalation and the Bilstein notice and the installing of the front stock upper mounts with the different nuts...
Thanks a lot for the help !
*update* Bilstein Pss10 Installation Manual
I installed my Bilstein PSS10 Coilover suspension kit last week, and just wanna try my best to share some information here.
The bilstein PSS10 is the new model. The difference between the old PSS9 is a bigger adjustment ****. It features 10 adjustments front and rear, with spring rates of 370 lbs front, and a progressive rear rate of 240-420 lbs rear. Ride height adjustable from -1.0" to -1.75" (front) & -1.0" to -1.75" (rear. minimum 1" lowering). The finish of the coilover is awesome and high end. However, it does not come with upper mounts, you have to use the stock one.
The reason for me to pick this coil over system is that I want a very streetable and occasionally track days system since I live in San Francisco and the road is so shitty over here. I also prefer to use the stock upper mounts since they are able absorb some noise and vibration. The spring rates are a little bit low, however, Bilstein stated that the shocks are performace valved, so I am going to give it a try. (Most suspension system comes with much stiffer spring rates Front 559lbs, rear 540lbs) (Keep reading, I will let u guys know how they feel on track)
The installation is not very smooth, since the instructions come with the box is actually for the PSS9, I have to called Bilstein to email the correct instruction to me. (Bilstein Tech support is very friendly and helpful, they answered my call right away and willing to help me out ++) I had a problem installing the front stock upper mounts, since the instuctions stated I will need to put the upper mounts below the adjustment ***** and on top of the bottom lock nuts. It doesnt make any sense to me. So I called Bilstein again and they told me to put it under the second lock nuts. Everything works fine after that.
On softest setting, the ride is just a little little bit firmer (very similar to stock), and turn-in is much sharper now. I really like how the ride, and my GF doesnt even notice
I bought my Z to Thunderhill Raceway after the installation. I set the suspension to full stiff. The vehicle was much more responsive then stock now, and was very predictable! ( I had another track day with full stock, same tires setup 2 weeks before I installed the PSS10, so I can give it a good comparison) However, since the rear are progressive springs, it really takes some times to get used to it. The body roll was still like stock ( a lot) due to the soft spring rates and it is now understeer a little bit more than before (on accel. during cornering). I turned my front suspension to softer setting, and it didnt correct much understeer either. However, my Z was still using stock sway bars. I will get a set of adjustable sway bars, so I will be able to tune the handling characteristic, and hopefully I will be able to make it more neutral. I will keep u guys updated in the future. But beside these, my Z did corner very well, it was like glue on the ground. And since it was so predictable, I was able to correct the understeer by just lifting the throttle, and it will point back to the right direction right away. The shocks did not overheated for any full 20mins section, and that was quite amazing. ( I used to have Tein on my s14, it happened)
As of now, I am ok satisfied on the Bilstein PSS10. Hopefully my new sway bars will help reducing the body roll. My goal is to setup a very streetable car and it also able to perform well on track. If I can eliminate most of the body roll, i will be very satisfied!!
-Pat
Front adjustment ****:
Rear adjustment ****: (I can access it thu the wheel)
I installed my Bilstein PSS10 Coilover suspension kit last week, and just wanna try my best to share some information here.
The bilstein PSS10 is the new model. The difference between the old PSS9 is a bigger adjustment ****. It features 10 adjustments front and rear, with spring rates of 370 lbs front, and a progressive rear rate of 240-420 lbs rear. Ride height adjustable from -1.0" to -1.75" (front) & -1.0" to -1.75" (rear. minimum 1" lowering). The finish of the coilover is awesome and high end. However, it does not come with upper mounts, you have to use the stock one.
The reason for me to pick this coil over system is that I want a very streetable and occasionally track days system since I live in San Francisco and the road is so shitty over here. I also prefer to use the stock upper mounts since they are able absorb some noise and vibration. The spring rates are a little bit low, however, Bilstein stated that the shocks are performace valved, so I am going to give it a try. (Most suspension system comes with much stiffer spring rates Front 559lbs, rear 540lbs) (Keep reading, I will let u guys know how they feel on track)
The installation is not very smooth, since the instructions come with the box is actually for the PSS9, I have to called Bilstein to email the correct instruction to me. (Bilstein Tech support is very friendly and helpful, they answered my call right away and willing to help me out ++) I had a problem installing the front stock upper mounts, since the instuctions stated I will need to put the upper mounts below the adjustment ***** and on top of the bottom lock nuts. It doesnt make any sense to me. So I called Bilstein again and they told me to put it under the second lock nuts. Everything works fine after that.
On softest setting, the ride is just a little little bit firmer (very similar to stock), and turn-in is much sharper now. I really like how the ride, and my GF doesnt even notice
I bought my Z to Thunderhill Raceway after the installation. I set the suspension to full stiff. The vehicle was much more responsive then stock now, and was very predictable! ( I had another track day with full stock, same tires setup 2 weeks before I installed the PSS10, so I can give it a good comparison) However, since the rear are progressive springs, it really takes some times to get used to it. The body roll was still like stock ( a lot) due to the soft spring rates and it is now understeer a little bit more than before (on accel. during cornering). I turned my front suspension to softer setting, and it didnt correct much understeer either. However, my Z was still using stock sway bars. I will get a set of adjustable sway bars, so I will be able to tune the handling characteristic, and hopefully I will be able to make it more neutral. I will keep u guys updated in the future. But beside these, my Z did corner very well, it was like glue on the ground. And since it was so predictable, I was able to correct the understeer by just lifting the throttle, and it will point back to the right direction right away. The shocks did not overheated for any full 20mins section, and that was quite amazing. ( I used to have Tein on my s14, it happened)
As of now, I am ok satisfied on the Bilstein PSS10. Hopefully my new sway bars will help reducing the body roll. My goal is to setup a very streetable car and it also able to perform well on track. If I can eliminate most of the body roll, i will be very satisfied!!
-Pat
Front adjustment ****:
Rear adjustment ****: (I can access it thu the wheel)
Last edited by FastGreg; 04-02-2014 at 11:53 PM.
04-03-2014, 02:34 AM
#77
1. take the top adjuster **** off
2. take off the 2 nuts under the adjuster
3. take off the 2 nuts above the boot
4. reuse your oem upper top hat
5. use the nuts from point 3 to secure the oem hat
6. re-assemble adjuster
see page 18 in the pdf 350Zenophile posted.
2. take off the 2 nuts under the adjuster
3. take off the 2 nuts above the boot
4. reuse your oem upper top hat
5. use the nuts from point 3 to secure the oem hat
6. re-assemble adjuster
see page 18 in the pdf 350Zenophile posted.
04-03-2014, 03:24 AM
#78
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Thanks Mr. Rizk, but if I do so, nothing retain the upper mount on the coilover rod which slide on it ...
04-03-2014, 03:29 AM
#79
the piston is stepped. The metal ring the boot is affixed to is what the top hat sits on. take the spring off and you will notice it will not slide up and down the piston as it sits on the bump stop plate
Last edited by MR RIZK; 04-03-2014 at 03:35 AM.
