I just got a set of D-specs with Gf-210s from another member here.
Bare with me here since I have no instructions but to adjust the shocks I would need to remove the dust caps and get a 3mm Hex tool to adjust the shock correct? Do I put the dust caps back on or leave them off? The reason is I want to be able to adjust the shocks with the Rear Adjustment DIY but I am not sure if leaving those caps off will mess with anything.

 

When I had the Dspec shocks, I left the caps in the rear off just in case I wanted to adjust the dampening. I don't think leaving those caps off will mess with anything.

 

Thanks.

 

Dump those progressive GF210's....they are going to KILL your d-specs.....the spring is too soft.....

I have the D-specs.....i also had the gf-210's but they sucked because they make the car feel sloppy.

I went with RS-R springs...trash man picked up the tanabe's 2 weeks ago

 

So far the ride is quite smooth and responsive. It feels much better then my stock suspension. I have the 03 unrevised. Some people have different needs for their suspension set up and mine is good for a daily driver.

 

Um, ive been tracking my Z with D-specs/gf210 for about 2 years now and the car feels great, even with stock swaybars...What setting do you have on your shocks? I run them full hard rear and a turn from full hard in the front.

 

Tanabe Rate: 335 lbs front, 375 lbs rear

RSR Rate: 345 lbs front, 417 lbs rear

really not an overly significant difference

 

Tanabe Rate: 335 lbs front, 375 lbs rear EDIT Progressive ---you have to go into a turn HARD in order to get the springrates they claim.....driving down a road-----the initial rates are much lower

RSR Rate: 345 lbs front, 417 lbs rear EDIT---Linear---Constant rate

BELIEVE ME their was a HUGE difference going from Tanabe to the RS-R.....and even when i put the Tanabes on the first time with brand new blues.....the ride was worse than stock....

just tired of false claims that these springs are any good at all.....


Sure some folks (very few) claim that they track their car (Running at almost full stiff which aint really that stiff anyhow---yes i have the D-specs and would not recommend them)........, but others only care about being low and that's all they care about.

I mean....if I am going to spend money on something it had BETTER be significantly better than stock

sorry, but i ran on Tanabe's for a week---WAY too soft.....and the D-specs.....SHI......I ended up cranking it up to full stiff all the way around cause it would FEEL stiff for a minute....and then after continually cranking it up...it is comfy stiff.....it has held up....but i think they could be better designed.....

 

Why did you choose a progressive spring if you don't mind me asking?

 

I've used both quite a bit. I had RSR's on my own car before coilovers back in 2003. The RSR spring for the Z is only linear out back - but yes, less progressive up front vs the GF210, I agree (which are quite progressive though that's typical of GF springs from Tanabe for a variety of cars...their initial rates are very very soft, but they generally ramp up quickly)

Tanabe with Tokico Blue - I wouldn't expect it to ride better than stock...not sure why you would have that expectation. Blue's are great for someone who needs a cheap replacement strut. It's not really for someone who wants a handling improvement, just someone who needs to get something in the car other than stock. The D Specs are certainly better than stock, but they adjust rebound and compression together. Koni's are (IMHO) a far better choice (albeit more expensive).

An overly stiff car, on street tires is usually not a good handling car

The primary benefit of merely installing aftermarket springs is to lower the car