My new Stance = Bilstein +3 R / +5 F
#43
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Looks great! If do run Auto-X/Track days the height in the back won't rub with compression. Otherwise, lowering it more without a fender roll will rub.
I have that same lip, but a replica, and I sit that low-up front as well. I hit pine cones in my office parking lot all the time...lol
Actually, had to add curb rubber ramps to get in my driveway.
http://www.mccarthysteel.com/product...1_lbs_ea..html
I have that same lip, but a replica, and I sit that low-up front as well. I hit pine cones in my office parking lot all the time...lol
Actually, had to add curb rubber ramps to get in my driveway.
http://www.mccarthysteel.com/product...1_lbs_ea..html
#44
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Also, after riding in your car with these, I'm definitely picking up a set. I think you should consider deleting the rear progressive spring with a linear replacement. That will put you in a better place when you get into autocrossing and DEs, and also let you take the rear a bit lower when you're having late night gorilla stance cravings.
I just need to design and fabricate a spring adapter for the lower spring seat. Edit: Or you could go with the SPL pieces, though I think fabricating an adapter will be just as effective and much more wallet friendly.
I just need to design and fabricate a spring adapter for the lower spring seat. Edit: Or you could go with the SPL pieces, though I think fabricating an adapter will be just as effective and much more wallet friendly.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ver-kit-2.html
^ post 21 & 23
DO NOT take the car lower! You don't want to drop the pss(9/10) too much, they hardly have any bump travel at a 1" drop.
Last edited by Gsedan35; 09-01-2009 at 08:55 AM.
#45
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Gsedan35, thanks a bunch I really appreciate the pictures. Saved me some time for sure I have a few questions:
1. Does the adapter plate on the revised seat thread onto the collar like the locking nuts?
2. What material did you use to insulate the spring from the adapter plate? I was thinking of using some of the delrin I have laying around, but from the looks of your design the insulator serves to keep the spring centered on the perch, necessitating the use of a softer material than delrin.
3. Do you have any recommendations on spring length given the OPs requirement of having the ability to go slightly lower than he is now, while still being able to raise it back to a streetable/trackable height if necessary? From your post in the other thread, you're using Eibach ESS springs, 9.5" tall. I'm just not sure what this equates to in terms of height range.
4. Any thoughts on spring rate given he is running stock valving?
Your advice on riding the bump stops is duly noted. The OP and myself have experience with this first hand at the height in the pictures.
Leor I hope I'm not giving away any secrets , but we raised the car after checking the lowest height range of the shocks (as pictured). Even then, we hit the front bump stops with two passengers - only once, but still a concern nonetheless.
1. Does the adapter plate on the revised seat thread onto the collar like the locking nuts?
2. What material did you use to insulate the spring from the adapter plate? I was thinking of using some of the delrin I have laying around, but from the looks of your design the insulator serves to keep the spring centered on the perch, necessitating the use of a softer material than delrin.
3. Do you have any recommendations on spring length given the OPs requirement of having the ability to go slightly lower than he is now, while still being able to raise it back to a streetable/trackable height if necessary? From your post in the other thread, you're using Eibach ESS springs, 9.5" tall. I'm just not sure what this equates to in terms of height range.
4. Any thoughts on spring rate given he is running stock valving?
Your advice on riding the bump stops is duly noted. The OP and myself have experience with this first hand at the height in the pictures.
Leor I hope I'm not giving away any secrets , but we raised the car after checking the lowest height range of the shocks (as pictured). Even then, we hit the front bump stops with two passengers - only once, but still a concern nonetheless.
#46
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Your welcome.
1. The adaptor isn't threaded, I milled it to be a snug slip fit on the Bilstein seat collar. 6061 is relatively strong, but I would not trust a threaded adaptor.
2. I came up with a really simple solution. I had to have something that would add protection against the spring walking and it add's a smidge of isolation. It's a modified silicon rubber sink stopper purchased down the faucet isle of any Home Depot. The stopper happens to be a perfect 5" OD and I just cut the center out, leaving a 1/2" wide ring that serves my purpose perfectly.
3. Use a 400-425 lbs spring, do not attempt to go any higher. IIRC set to max height= a 7/8" drop. Going out and measuring the adjustor, you should be able to drop down another .4"
1. The adaptor isn't threaded, I milled it to be a snug slip fit on the Bilstein seat collar. 6061 is relatively strong, but I would not trust a threaded adaptor.
2. I came up with a really simple solution. I had to have something that would add protection against the spring walking and it add's a smidge of isolation. It's a modified silicon rubber sink stopper purchased down the faucet isle of any Home Depot. The stopper happens to be a perfect 5" OD and I just cut the center out, leaving a 1/2" wide ring that serves my purpose perfectly.
3. Use a 400-425 lbs spring, do not attempt to go any higher. IIRC set to max height= a 7/8" drop. Going out and measuring the adjustor, you should be able to drop down another .4"
Last edited by Gsedan35; 09-02-2009 at 08:18 AM. Reason: typo
#49
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Your welcome.
1. The adaptor isn't threaded, I milled it to be a snug slip fit on the Bilstein seat collar. 6061 is relatively strong, but I would not trust a threaded adaptor.
2. I came up with a really simple solution. I had to have something that would add protection against the spring walking and it add's a smidge of isolation. It's a modified silicon rubber sink stopper purchased down the faucet isle of any Home Depot. The stopper happens to be a perfect 5" OD and I just just the center out, leaving a 1/2" wide ring that serves my purpose perfectly.
3. Use a 400-425 lbs spring, do not attempt to go any higher. IIRC set to max height= a 7/8" drop. Going out and measuring the adjustor, you should be able to drop down another .4"
1. The adaptor isn't threaded, I milled it to be a snug slip fit on the Bilstein seat collar. 6061 is relatively strong, but I would not trust a threaded adaptor.
2. I came up with a really simple solution. I had to have something that would add protection against the spring walking and it add's a smidge of isolation. It's a modified silicon rubber sink stopper purchased down the faucet isle of any Home Depot. The stopper happens to be a perfect 5" OD and I just just the center out, leaving a 1/2" wide ring that serves my purpose perfectly.
3. Use a 400-425 lbs spring, do not attempt to go any higher. IIRC set to max height= a 7/8" drop. Going out and measuring the adjustor, you should be able to drop down another .4"
#53
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Dan it works great, I only post things like that once they have been thoughly tested. Absolutely zero issues. You do have to be more carefull on install, but other then a little more time, that's it. Going to the linear springs vs progressive gave the car better turn in and more predictable at the limit behavior.
#54
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Gsedan35 thanks for the comments! It's great when conversation like this happens on the forums...
I will be placing my order soon and will hopefully be up and runnin in Oct. So Guitman32 be ready for another weekend of work and party!
Everyone else, thanks for the kind words!
Alyvin...I raised the front 1/2"...my 255s were rubbing like no buddies business lol
I will be placing my order soon and will hopefully be up and runnin in Oct. So Guitman32 be ready for another weekend of work and party!
Everyone else, thanks for the kind words!
Alyvin...I raised the front 1/2"...my 255s were rubbing like no buddies business lol