Notices
Brakes & Suspension 350Z stoppers, coils, shocks/dampers

Riding HIGH on Zeals...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #21  
2k6-z33's Avatar
2k6-z33
Registered User
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: Pomona, CA
Default

^
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #22  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

2k6-z33- HAHA! That's funny! Yeah, I did tighten both top and middle rings while loosening the lower ring and then turning the top ring to adjust height. So what you're saying is to keep the lower ring tight, loosen the middle ring. What ring do I turn or adjust? Also, is the spring gonna stay in contact with the upper mount during adjustment? My spring would not be in contact with the upper mount when I adjusted the height the 'other' way until I fully lowered the car. I'm a noob to all this haha! Thanks man!

Take care
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #23  
2k6-z33's Avatar
2k6-z33
Registered User
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: Pomona, CA
Default

^The top ring is the perch for the spring, the middle one is the one that adjust the height. Hold the bottom one and move the middle one most likely you tighten the hell out of the two top rings LOL! Just try and loosen the middle one. Good Luck.
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #24  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

Cool man! So I keep the bottom ring tight, loosen the middle ring. What exactly am I moving to adjust height? Again, ME=NOOB haha!

Take care
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 09:28 PM
  #25  
2k6-z33's Avatar
2k6-z33
Registered User
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: Pomona, CA
Default

The middle ring controls the height and when you're done lowering the middle ring you bring the top one down to the middle ring and it should sit.
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #26  
terrasmak's Avatar
terrasmak
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
Premier Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,122
Likes: 2,400
From: Sin City
Default

Originally Posted by blazinasian
If there really is no other way to get lower, I'll get the rears rebuilt to my specs so I'll have a slammed ride WITH a decent ride quality.
Not really possible, if you remember you are driving a sports coupe that from the factory already has limited suspension travel. The more you lower your car the more up travel you lose.


So whats the spring preload at ? You know you can run it down to pretty much 0 preload. Start the preload at 0, then add preload till your car is at the desired height.
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 10:04 PM
  #27  
dikspiel's Avatar
dikspiel
Chestons Toilet
Premier Member
iTrader: (70)
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,859
Likes: 92
From: Cheston's
Default

u can get the car pretty damn low with the Zeal's, he isn't going to need to rebuild them.
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #28  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

^Thanks guys! Right now, the preload is 0. As I lower the car (via the spring perch method) the preload increases resulting in the stiffer ride even after adjusting the damper settings. This is how it's supposed to be huh? If rebuilding the coils to try to achieve a finer balance is relatively pointless, then I'll save myself the headache and just work with what I've got. I just thought I was doing something wrong. What damper settings are you guys running Front and Rear, maybe F4-R3?

Take care
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 10:29 PM
  #29  
dikspiel's Avatar
dikspiel
Chestons Toilet
Premier Member
iTrader: (70)
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,859
Likes: 92
From: Cheston's
Default

3 in the front, 5 in the rear
Reply
Old Dec 9, 2009 | 11:18 PM
  #30  
mkn's Avatar
mkn
New Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: 10013
Default

Originally Posted by 2k6-z33
You have to hold the bottom ring and loosen the middle ring, what you probably did was tighten the top ring and the middle ring together. Dont listen to Dikspiel or Waizzz I do most of the work on their rice buckets!
rice buckets
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 01:47 AM
  #31  
duro78's Avatar
duro78
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
From: ny
Default

Check the shaft there might be a little metal burr keeping it from passing that point that u can just file down
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 05:36 AM
  #32  
Z1 Performance's Avatar
Z1 Performance
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, New York
Default

Originally Posted by blazinasian
I hope you guys aren't referring to lowering the spring perch collar to adjust height...? I was told that was sorta a No No. I did try it though just for process of elimination, and it lowered the car, but made it ride like sh@t. No travel in the suspension. Just back breaking stiff.

Take care
You have 2 ways to adjust height - spring preload and the lower perch. Your main height adjustments get done via the lower mounting bracket (where the damper attaches to the control arm). Minor height adjustments (cornerbalancing, and/or to do some slight evening out of the heights side to side, or to finalize dialing in the ride quality) are done via spring preload at the spring perch. You can't get the car any lower because you have not touched the lower bracket. If you do your main height adjustments via preload, and start preloading the spring considerably, that is when ride quality can potentially suffer (depends on the amount of preload and the spring rate, spring position, and all sorts of variables). Adjusting the height via the lower mounting bracket has no affect on ride quality, which is why they make the spring preload adjustable. That is why this is a 2 way height adjustable coilover (bracket and perch) - this way you can adjust the height of the bracket, and then adjust the preload on the perch to suit

Start here - take the damper out of the car completely. Figure out how much lower you want to go - 1/2 inch, 1 inch, etc. Measure that amount from the lower perch, and thread it accordingly. Make the same exact change to the opposit side. With the damper back in the car, adjust the spring perch so the spring is snug, and not sagging with the wheels of the car up in the air. That is minimal spring preload, and ideal for a street car.

You have zero need to rebuild them, you just need to learn your way around them

Last edited by Z1 Performance; Dec 10, 2009 at 05:46 AM.
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #33  
Gibbs's Avatar
Gibbs
Know it all
Premier Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 695
Likes: 1
From: Dallas (Colleyville), Texas
Default

^Excellent responce. I don't even have coilovers, but this makes perfect sence and is very well sorted.
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #34  
Rickdogg's Avatar
Rickdogg
Out of hiatus
Premier Member
iTrader: (234)
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,759
Likes: 4
From: My350z
Default

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
You have 2 ways to adjust height - spring preload and the lower perch. Your main height adjustments get done via the lower mounting bracket (where the damper attaches to the control arm). Minor height adjustments (cornerbalancing, and/or to do some slight evening out of the heights side to side, or to finalize dialing in the ride quality) are done via spring preload at the spring perch. You can't get the car any lower because you have not touched the lower bracket. If you do your main height adjustments via preload, and start preloading the spring considerably, that is when ride quality can potentially suffer (depends on the amount of preload and the spring rate, spring position, and all sorts of variables). Adjusting the height via the lower mounting bracket has no affect on ride quality, which is why they make the spring preload adjustable. That is why this is a 2 way height adjustable coilover (bracket and perch) - this way you can adjust the height of the bracket, and then adjust the preload on the perch to suit

Start here - take the damper out of the car completely. Figure out how much lower you want to go - 1/2 inch, 1 inch, etc. Measure that amount from the lower perch, and thread it accordingly. Make the same exact change to the opposit side. With the damper back in the car, adjust the spring perch so the spring is snug, and not sagging with the wheels of the car up in the air. That is minimal spring preload, and ideal for a street car.

You have zero need to rebuild them, you just need to learn your way around them
Flawless victory with that response.
Reply
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 10:12 PM
  #35  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

Thanks for all the help guys! Adam to the rescue haha! Gonna work it out this weekend. Glad to have such help on the forums!

Take care
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 04:37 AM
  #36  
Z1 Performance's Avatar
Z1 Performance
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, New York
Default

Sorry I couldn't talk yesterday....it gets insanely busy at the shop, and I wear alot of hats, so it gets hectic at times. When you are ready to do this, print out my reply above and have the car in front of you, I guarantee it will be clear to you, as it really is quite simple. What you are essentially doing is "shortening" the overall length of the entire damper assembly, by threading the lower bracket upwards, towards the top mount. This is bringing the lower bracket closer in proximity to the lower spring perch. That is in effect lowering the height of the car.

You can also refer here:

http://www.tein.com/tech_info/inst/6p26u.pdf

These are the instructions for the Tein Flex, which is another 2 way adjustable coilover. The Tein's maintain the stock rear geometry, where you coilovers are "true" rear units. So, what you are going to basically do, is follow their instructions for adjusting rideheight on the FRONT, and transfer that to your FRONT AND REAR. While their height recommendations will be different, you will see their instructions basically are saying what I did in my previous post (though in less detail).

Last edited by Z1 Performance; Dec 11, 2009 at 04:54 AM.
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #37  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

Cool, no prob Adam! I know you're always busy and just thankful for you at least trying to help me. I was gonna actually call you today and apologize for ending our conversation on a 'short' note. I never intended to come off as being rude. I'm really not that kind of person. My apologies

Well, I have followed your instructions, but I'm still stuck on one key part. The lower mounting bracket is literally all the way up. Period. And when I move the spring snug up to the upper mounter plate, my ride height once lowered is just as pictured. I went ahead and just lowered the spring perch and have the spring actually 'floating' about 1" driver side and about 1/2" passenger. Once lowered it looks great! Gotta figure out the ride quality issue now...

Take care and Thanks Adam!
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 09:31 AM
  #38  
Z1 Performance's Avatar
Z1 Performance
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, New York
Default

any pics of the damper out of the car? Is the threaded body all the way threaded to the bottom most portion of the lower mounting bracket?
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #39  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

I don't have any pics now, but I'll pull the rears out tonight and take some pics. Yeah, the threaded body is ALL the way in the lower mounting bracket. I double checked to make sure last night. The threaded body completely stops moving clockwise into the lower bracket.

Take care
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 07:55 PM
  #40  
blazinasian's Avatar
blazinasian
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Midland, TX
Default

Finally got around to taking pics of the rear coils. I didn't completely pull them out, just disconnected them from the brake system. It should suffice, since there's no real pressure on the coils. Kinda 'free floating'. Also, these pictures are using the spring perch lowering method. The damper body has not moved since the first pics, just the lowering of the spring perch. You can get an idea of how much more adjustment I need...





Not sure what this is all about haha...


Measurement of lower bracket depth...


...corresponds with position on damper...


Now a little teaser of how she's gonna sit eventually...



Take care
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:22 PM.