finally i received my fr/r hawk HPS pads !! I was really surprise how light they are but was amazed how tiny the rear brake pads are haha never knew they are so small.
I don't get why but the side of the pads are shiny, painted with somekind of gloss(?). Is this alright? also, one of the pads have little bit of gloss on the pad where it actually contacts the rotor...is this ok ?
pics are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/46474393@N08/4769541790/

 

Yeah, the sides are painted along with the backing plate. A little crap on the face of the pad will come off while bedding them in, but you could easily remove the paint with some sandpaper before installing if you were so inclined.

 

i guess i'll just install them with little bit of crap on the pad.I don't know the difference between ferro carbon and ceramic but i thought i ordered ceramic.. lol
received ferro carbon

 

Check the part number. I have a set here that are in a Ferro Carbon box. So I was like "I thought I bought HPS!" Checked the part number on the pad and they are in fact HPS pads in a Ferro Carbon box. Part number on the box is correct also.

 

All Hawk pads are based on Ferro Carbon compounds. The ceramics just have 7% or more silicate content.

As a quick check, HPS pads have an 'F' in the part nunber (e.g., HB268F.665), where the Performance Ceramic compound uses a 'Z' -- HB268Z.665.

Don't worry about some minor paint overspray. It quickly comes off of any areas it's not supposed to be. But do use the special lubricant that comes in the box for best results.

Chris

 

It doesn't say 'F' it just says HB268. Whatever, i'll just use it anyways haha
today i received Centric premium rotors front from Autowarehouse!! can't wait till i install them tomorrow.
I thought the rotors surface would be SHINY but it's not kinda disappointed.) Also it has some light brown crap on the surface that i can't get rid of. i'm sure i'll go away once i bed in

 

Is there a certain side the rotors have to be installed or doesn't matter?

 

No, they are unidirectional. Can you post a pic of the rotor surface? They should look freshly machined, often with grinding witness marks. Zinc plated would be even better, but Centric doesn't do that. They are straight from China as-is.

 

light brown crap is like liquid. I used the brake spray to remove most of them but some of them are still on it, not much. ( these pics are before i cleaned them) Also little bit of black stuff. These are cell phone pics sry.

I'm installing these tomorrow morning so i hope i get ur respond fast.

 

Nice. I like the black hat. Assume it is anti-corrosive paint.

 

Oh yeah. it might be anti-corrosive paint. I like the black hat too haha i hope it doesn't rust FOREVERRR
I expected the rotor surface to be more shiny so that when installed, it stands out behind the rims.

 

The stains are just surface rust -- nothing to sweat about. It will disappear the first time you hit the brake pedal hard.

The black stuff is a type of electrostatic coating. It will keep the rotors from rusting. Well, at least until they hit about 900°F, which is pretty hot. Above that the rotor will expand enough to flake off the coating, especially on the outside diameter. Don't ask me how I know this....

Just be sure to bed the pads in correctly and you should be OK.

Chris

 

Finally! i'm done installing pads and rotors. it took about 5 hrs
on the HAWK pads' case it shows the bedding instruction but it only tells me to do 3~4 hardstops. Should i do about 6 of them?
Ima gonna bed them today at very night so i don't have to drag my pads along the way

 

centric rotors with hawk pads

 

Here is what Hawk's Todd Miller has to say about bedding street friction: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUalHWIpWR4

Todd and I agree about 95% on this technique for a simple front brake job. Since you've also changed rears, you will probably find you need to do 2-3 more runs at the harder 45 to 10mph slow down (2nd set). The rears will not have seen enough temperature from the indicated number of runs to get to green pad fade, especially since they are not drilled and/or slotted. The few extra runs will get some heat into the rears as the fronts are becoming pretty ineffective at this point.

Note: Make sure all of this is being done on a straight road with little crown. It is unlikely the rears will try to lock up, but better safe than sorry. ABS can react pretty quickly, yet we can't count on it to defy the laws of physics.

This bedding process will get the pads about 75% bedded. They will still need some time on the road to finish burnishing (complete mating of pad surface to rotor surface). This is usually accomplished in the first 500 miles or so, depending on how and where you drive. The brakes should actually feel better after they are bedded and burnished. Whatever you do, don't drag the brakes!

If only doing easy driving, this process might need to be repeated every few months or so for best results. It's sad how many people will drive on rotors that have lost their transfer layer with pads that have started to glaze from under-use. They will often complain their brake pads suck, even though they are getting about 50-60% of the performance of the pads they already have! It's great for pad sales, though...

Chris

 

Todd and I agree about 95% on this technique for a simple front brake job. Since you've also changed rears, you will probably find you need to do 2-3 more runs at the harder 45 to 10mph slow down (2nd set). The rears will not have seen enough temperature from the indicated number of runs to get to green pad fade, especially since they are not drilled and/or slotted. The few extra runs will get some heat into the rears as the fronts are becoming pretty ineffective at this point.

Note: Make sure all of this is being done on a straight road with little crown. It is unlikely the rears will try to lock up, but better safe than sorry. ABS can react pretty quickly, yet we can't count on it to defy the laws of physics.

This bedding process will get the pads about 75% bedded. They will still need some time on the road to finish burnishing (complete mating of pad surface to rotor surface). This is usually accomplished in the first 500 miles or so, depending on how and where you drive. The brakes should actually feel better after they are bedded and burnished. Whatever you do, don't drag the brakes!

If only doing easy driving, this process might need to be repeated every few months or so for best results. It's sad how many people will drive on rotors that have lost their transfer layer with pads that have started to glaze from under-use. They will often complain their brake pads suck, even though they are getting about 50-60% of the performance of the pads they already have! It's great for pad sales, though...

Chris[/QUOTE]

I made another thread about rotor squealing.. Could you please answer that ?

After i bedded in, the initial bite feels like little bit better than stock but not sure.. no significant upgrade. Will it bite much better and stop better than stock after 500 miles or so?
sorry i ask too much

 

congrats on doing the work...next time search harder for better pads, the HPS are a performance downgrade from stock in my opinion and experience and I've seen other agree as well.

Don't fret though, use them til they're done and just do more searching next go around.

 

what...a lot of ppl use hawk hps as stock upgrade..and they say centric and hawk are good combination..
What do you recommend? i need to change my brother's g35 rear pads

 

Nice job OP. Have you noticed a decrease in brake dust?

 

i haven't driven the car alot yet.. drove about 50 miles, no brake dust.
I like the initial bite, right when it grabs the rotors but not really impressive after the initial grab lol. We'll see how it is after a few hundred miles