Pam. It doesn't work for lovebugs, but maybe on your brakes? )))

 

Stupid question...common sense should take over and you'd know what to do...

 

 

Use the brakes for their intended purpose instead about the posing factor with them? I have yet to have anyone care about the small amount of rust on my rotors, and i would just call them a ricer and walk off if they said something about it.

 

I didn't ask for your opinions for what I want to use them for. And it's really none of your business if I want them for looks or put them to use.

Keep your smart *** replies out of my thread.

If you can't offer any helpful tips, gtfo of my thread. Simple as that.

 

+1. The rust bothered the OP, asked for helpful tips, end of story. No need to attack him guys. Anyway, this would bother me as well.

But like what most people said, remove the rust, paint the rotor with high temp paint (hat included if you want), and the pads will simply take the paint right off the swept area. You can also zinc coat the rotor after removing the rust to keep it silver.

 

This comment makes it sound so technical and so bad....a nice spin but so far from the basic truth.

The only reason you see this on most kits has nothing to do with proper size pads, proper rotors, rotor volume, swept area etc. etc.

It's simply component fit. The hats are a given diameter. Let's call them 9". The rotor is a given diameter, lets call that 14". 14-9 = 5". Take that and divide by 2 and you get 2.5" of ring surface.

Many manufactures use the same hat bolt circle, the same hat, and the same rotor sizes on a variety of kits. Let's put that same 9" hat on a 13" rotor. Guess what; now only 4"/2 or 2" per side. All that depending upon the size of the pad (again often the same foot print just on a different size rotor ring) and you have a variable in the air gap to the hat.

It really is just that simple. Sure, mfgs could make dedicated hats to specific rotor and specific kits. And some probably do. But the cost and inventory to do it is far higher. In the Wilwood line that same 9" hat works on a 12.9, 12.91, 13.06, 14.0 and 14.25" castings. In this case (and others like it) even the rotor is the same part- it's just turned down to the required diameter.

*The zinc plating will help for some time but subject to burn off and corrosion like anything on iron. Paint is a quick fix but will still be routinely needed.

 

Any reason why caliper paint would not work? It's got to be pretty close in temp threshold? The centric rotors on my Titan came painted/andozied or whatever it was about 1/2 inch beyond the rotor hats and dont have this problem.

 

I do not believe it would hold up to the temps. BBQ paint and header paint are more common.

 

Rotors get a lot hotter than calipers. Hell rotors get a lot hotter than the average BBQ grill.

 

try penciling them in... with a regular #2 pencil

 

my centric rear rotors have the same rust problem