Anyone have thoughts on rotors suitable for track use? I have a stock 2008 Nismo 350Z that I run at Watkins Glen and NHMS about a dozen or so days a year. There is a lot of heavy braking at the Glen.
I got about 40 track days out of my OEM rotors then bought DBA 4000 series slotted rotors that crack after 3 track days. I’ve been using Hawk DTC-60 pads. I have cut in a 2 ½” air duct hose from the front air-box, directing air to the inner side of the front rotors.

 

Try Stoptechs CRYO treated slotted rotors. They are supposed to be much better at crack resistance. They also have special metalurgic treatment (Molibdium added). Vanes are also specially designed for better cooling.

 

Ive just been using the oem replacements, like $90 a pair from rockauto.com Even if they last 5 days it seems more cost effective than cracking rotors 3x the cost

 

Pics of how your running the hoses?

 

Are those for Brembo replacements?
Anyway....
Cryo Powerslots will last a LOT longer than std rotors.
Here they are for $208 a pair>>>
This is the right rotor...Brembo size
CRYO SLOTTED
http://www.theautopartsshop.com/sear...t=126.42076CSR

 

why not switch to a 2pc rotor?

 

CENTRIC Part # 12142076 More Info C-Tek Standard Rotor
Brembo Brakes; Front

37.99 so 75 + 10 for shipping.

Just trying to give you another option...

 

I run the Centric "Premium" standard blank rotors...they do get spider web cracks in them over time...but I have NEVER had a outright failure...

I use these over the Hi-dollar 2 peice rotors that are sitting in my shop now...I can't tell any difference in the performance...only the price

And I get them from Rockauto.com as well

 

Cryoed (Stoptech slotted) rotors are also specially cast as far as metalurgy..same as their *high performance rotors* are. These rotors will hold up much better than even *premiums* do. If you track your car, it's worth the extra $50 per rotor for these (over premium blanks).

BTW..here's a REALWORLD Cryo story.
Sub text>>>Drilling is not a good thing

Cryo experience:
http://www.ws6.com/cryo.htm

 

I "threaded" the hose into the 2 ½” hole I cut in the plastic panel that mounts the radiator. I made 2 simple hose clamp mounting brackets using a hacksaw, drill, file and vice, out of hardware store T-brackets and L-brackets. The L-bracket mounts underneath on of the caliper mounting bolts. The T-bracket mounts to the protruding end of a bolt in the lower arm using a thin series nut a ground down from a regular series nut.

 

not going to deny cryo treating is worth it(because i think it is) but that website isnt a good example, because the second non cryoed rotor has more holes drilled per line(3 vs 4) as well as more lines of holes(appears to be one extra line or row in between each slot) which is going to be a major contributing factor to less service life. you can also see the holes on the second one are drilled in opposite direction of the cooling vanes which is also supposedly bad but im not sure i believe that one.

 

Awesome thanks

shared!

 

Good observation, but cracks originate on OUTER edges where torque/stress is greatest. The *Extra holes* appear mostly on the inner, non contact surface..where stress would be minimal. In other words, if you would count all the holes on the pad contact area, they would prolly be close in #. Hard to say, but that's my take on effect of any extra holes here.

 

Those ducts need to be moved in slightly and blow into the hub/inner bearing area.

 

top pic you can see the second rotor where the crack is the spacing is completely different and the first hole is much closer to the edge. the holes from the second row are so close they allow the crack to travel to another weakened area. like i said im all for cryo treating i believe it makes the rotors last longer, thats just a bad example to try and prove it. i also think it dosnt do much of anything for cracking since the purpose is to make the object harder and maintain the same brittleness, not really make the object less brittle(although it might slightly).

it just needs to be done to slotted, j hook, or blank rotors lol

 

4 photos of the DBA 4000's that failed after 3 track days - they were brand new, out of the box on track day 1. They lasted about a month. 1st day at Watkins Glen, day 2-3 at NHMS where we were running the south oval.

The 5th picture, with the quarter for scale, was the catastrophic failure of the OEMs ($550 each to replace from Nissan) at Watkins Glen. I was lucky it didn't chunk out and take out the caliper. Got my moneys worth out of them. They were well worn below minimum thickness and badly heat checked. I's say about 40 track days on them, maybe half of which I was running in the intermediate run group. Now I'm a solid advanced drive with higher cornering speed and more aggressive braking.

 

The DBA 4000’s were supposedly cyro. Purchased from a well know supplier that we all know of and many of us have used. They had a “special price” that was not posted on their web page. Make me think they may have been from a less than perfect manufacturing lot. Think I paid about $160 each

 

Do you have any vids or pics of your track time?

 

Pictures of me doing what I love most - no vids yet. 3 from Watkins Glen (turn 2, leading the pack up the back straight and finishing a late pass in the toe), Mt Tremblant (yes - I just passed the Lambo. She had more money than skill!) and NHMS (chased by a Beemer in the south chicane). Pictures range from 2008-2011. First track day for 2012 is April 30th so time is running short for getting rotors resolved.

 

God..I would have loved to have run the Glen..
Looks like a terrific track...great shots!
I'm from So cal and have run many of the tracks out here (long ago)..so I can't complain...but those shots make me long for those days.