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Steering wheel shakes from 60-80+

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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Default Steering wheel shakes from 60-80+

Okay folks,I need some help diagnosing this issue further. Mods if this needs to be in the wheels section please feel free to move it.

Okay, on to it.
Suspension mods:Eibach pro-kit, SPC adjustable front UCA,SPC rear camber kit w/ toe bolt

Wheels: Varrstoen es3's 19x9.5-front 19x10.5-rear wrapped in Hankook Ventus V12's 245/35-front 275/35-rear.

I received an alignment (Sears)before installing the new wheels (stock touring wheels were on) and dont recall it shaking on the way home. I was thinking the balancing wasn't done correctly as the tires were mounted on without being put directly on the car as the camber kits weren't all installed as yet. Anyways, after getting the wheels on and realized it was still doing so, I took it back to be re-balanced. 3 wheels were were about .5 off (guy said that I would not have felt the difference with such a small increment. It felt a little better on the short ride over to a friends house. However, the next time I was driving the car the shake was very noticeable and I received another alignment.

At this point I dont know what else to check out for. I have attached a photo of my most recent alignments since modifying the suspension. The second was with the 19's on. I dont know if it has something to do with my alignment or if the issue is with a component. Some help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Attached Thumbnails Steering wheel shakes from 60-80+-10363484543_3152ac392a_h.jpg   Steering wheel shakes from 60-80+-imag1320.jpg  
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:34 PM
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you have hubcentric rings, correct?
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmurray350z
you have hubcentric rings, correct?
Yes I have them on. I made sure to get them on correctly as I was first putting them on directly on the hub but realized I had to snap them in to the wheel. Just for the record, I got some plastic ones that came with the wheel. Could those be a problem?
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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As long as outter and inner diameter on hub centric rings match with those on wheel and hub, you should be fine.

I used to get a shimmy on similar speeds on my M5, I had the wheels road force balanced and my problem went away
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Z-Crazy
As long as outter and inner diameter on hub centric rings match with those on wheel and hub, you should be fine.

I used to get a shimmy on similar speeds on my M5, I had the wheels road force balanced and my problem went away
So that road force was able to balance it without a bunch of weights on the wheel or what? I could have misread the site.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 06:42 PM
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Ordinary balancing just spins the tires and weights are applied to balance the wheels. Road force spins as well as applies force on the wheels to simulate the effect of wheels mounted on the car and moving at high speed. The machine then gives out the high spots and weights are applied accordingly.
Here's some more info:

http://blog.autosquad.com/road-force-balance/

The tire shop I go to puts the wheel on roadforce machine and charges around $15/wheel only if it needs to be road force balanced.

To trace the root cause of vibration, I tried roadforce first as it is cheaper than other alternatives.
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