Why does there seem to be more than 16 clicks?
How bouncy/jouncy is your ride?
What setting are you using?
What sways are you running? If adjustable sways, what setting?

Do you have the 12kg revised version? I do, along with Htchkis sways and I need some feed back here. My ride is poor and jouncy.
Please help me find the best setting. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

thats the setup i was thinkin about running, not happy with it? im interested to hear peoples replies as well

 

I'm happy, my Fiance is not, so I'm searching for the best setting.
IT DOES HANDLE.

 

The Tein flex system has a adjustment (or control) range where the dampners behave as if they were controlling 10kg springs, all the way up to 14kg springs. So from what your describing, you've adjusted them to a area of stiffness that is effectively overdampned. Car may feel more tossable as the stiffer settings resist rate of transfer, but the overdampning enters a area where some suspension motions are needed to maitain proper tire contact, especially over changing road surfaces. The excess jounce is telling you something as it would if you turned the settings down to the lowest setting.

 

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I have them at the softest front and rear. What setting are you using?

 

I have the softest setting front and back too! Cusco sways soon to come......

 

1- being stiffest, 16- being softest I have EDFC settings as follows:

10 in the front, 12 in the rear for daily driving
14 F, 16R when wife is in the car.
3-5 F, 5-7 R on the track

Cusco sways with front at stiffest setting (37% stiffer than stock).

 

What should be the setting to minimize under/over steering?

 

same here for my settings

 

Interesting. There is an answer to this if we noodle through it.

On the settings for the flex coil edfc unit, it can be in 16 steps, or you can set it to 32 (the same range as the 16, just "half steps").
I thought that 16 was just fine, so that is where I, and most people, leave it.

I have the 12kg stiffness, and have found it very excellent, certainly not bouncy.

The sway bars are Stillen adjustables, set at the middle setting.

On the highway I use preprogrammed 14F/16R and it provides a ride quality that is close to stock. If I have the lady in the car I make sure that her ride is comfortable by using that setting, not having more than 35psi in the tires, not accelerating at a slow speed around a 90 degree turn such that the LSD kicks in a pops and jolts her, and generally driving like a grandfather so that I have a reasonable chance of having her get back into the car in the future. Of course if she drives I get to ride shotgun in a Lexus SC430, so that is not bad.

On the street for performance driving I have preprogrammed the second button to 6F/8R. That is a bit tight and fine on smooth asphalt but nasty on concrete freeways with washboarding or buckles. So if it is too stiff, then I will pop it a couple of times and retreat to 8/10.

On the track I will go to preprogrammed 2/4 or back it off a click or two to 3/5 or 4/6. But I have used the 6/8 and it was more than adequate to the task. I even ran a couple of laps at 14/16 just to see what it would be like, and it was actually ok.

There has never ever been a bouncy or jouncy ride, or any popping or groaning either (some of the 10kg sets have been reported to do that on the rears).

 

You can manipulate the understeer/oversteer in a number of ways.
It is influenced by the size of the tires, the "stagger" if you will, between front and back.
If you want to trend more to neutral from the factory predisposition to mild understeer, you can go to less stagger, or eliminate it altogether.


It is influenced by the stiffness of the shocks. Make the rears equal or slightly stiffer, to promote the trend towards neutral or even oversteer.

It is influenced by the sway bar stiffness.

It is influenced by the psi in the tires also. That usually is something you can diddle with as a fine tune element.

Understeer is usually preferred on street cars because it is more in accord with the average driver's type of response to losing control in the corner. It is bothersome to an experienced driver who wants to break the rear loose deliberately and under control.
However, oversteer can have some nasty consequences of its own, frequently with less advance warning that it is coming, so you have to be able to test the set up if you are pushing towards oversteer so you don't get your lesson on a unforgiving piece of highway.

 

Sorry everyone for the false alert...
I found the problem, I had the shock lenghth to long and was bottoming out on the bump stops.
Now that it is corrected, THE RIDE AND HANDLING BALANCE IS INCREDIBLE!!!!!!
Thanks to those who tried to help.

 

Whew. That is a big relief. Glad you got it figured out. Now, enjoy and give us a good write up on how it performs for you!
Cheers.

 

So if the dampening can be adjusted to behave as if they were controlling anywhere from 10-14kg springs, then does it matter that all springs are equal as opposed to staggered front to back?

Won't the variation in dampening then eliminate the understeer that you were concerned the Teins would worsen due to increased spring rate in the front (which I thought was logical)?

Thanks for any input in advance.