I can help you get a good deal. Offering my assistance
I'd like to make one comment on the statement made previously that you will always end up doing better by selling a car outright. When you consider just the price of the car alone, that is most likely true. HOWEVER, most of us sell a car in order to buy another car and we pay sales tax when we buy cars. I think the rules change slightly in this scenario. Ok, so let's consider this scenario first:
1. You sell a car outright, let's say a $16.5K car and then you buy another for $17K. When you register that new car, you pay sales tax of the entire amount of the car you just purchased. In MA, that's 5% which is $850. Sucks but you don't have a choice about it. So, that new car cost you $17,850 after taxes.
2. You go into a dealer, trade the car in for $15K (1.5 gran less then if you sold it) and buy the same new car from the dealer for $17K. Because it's considered a single transaction, you pay tax on the difference between the cars, difference being $2000. So, 5% of that is $100. So, the new car cost you $17,100 after taxes.
As you can see, in scenario 2, you actually pay less money for the same car. Also, selling the car yourself is a PITA. It takes time and effort and some extra money to sell it.
Once you think about the numbers, you will realize that scenario 2 plays itself out like this if the value of the car you're looking to sell is close to what you're looking to buy. The further apart those numbers grow, the less favorable scenario 2 becomes to you since the difference in tax money shirks.
Just something else to consider. understand the full picture and consider all options. Sometimes going to the dealer is not really that bad as long as you know how it favors you.
1. You sell a car outright, let's say a $16.5K car and then you buy another for $17K. When you register that new car, you pay sales tax of the entire amount of the car you just purchased. In MA, that's 5% which is $850. Sucks but you don't have a choice about it. So, that new car cost you $17,850 after taxes.
2. You go into a dealer, trade the car in for $15K (1.5 gran less then if you sold it) and buy the same new car from the dealer for $17K. Because it's considered a single transaction, you pay tax on the difference between the cars, difference being $2000. So, 5% of that is $100. So, the new car cost you $17,100 after taxes.
As you can see, in scenario 2, you actually pay less money for the same car. Also, selling the car yourself is a PITA. It takes time and effort and some extra money to sell it.
Once you think about the numbers, you will realize that scenario 2 plays itself out like this if the value of the car you're looking to sell is close to what you're looking to buy. The further apart those numbers grow, the less favorable scenario 2 becomes to you since the difference in tax money shirks.
Just something else to consider. understand the full picture and consider all options. Sometimes going to the dealer is not really that bad as long as you know how it favors you.
Originally Posted by rglbegl
Sometimes. The best deals are the newspaper ads that have REALLY low prices on what is normally a base model.
But the good thing about fleet services is it's a straight forward deal. No haggling, no salesman . . .blah blah.
If you do not mind waisting a day at a dealer, you can normally get a little better deal on your own. Most fleet/credit union services are $500 over invoice. And as we all know . . . . . $0 over invoice is what most cars go for. (unless it is a true specialty car like a ferrari )
But the good thing about fleet services is it's a straight forward deal. No haggling, no salesman . . .blah blah.
If you do not mind waisting a day at a dealer, you can normally get a little better deal on your own. Most fleet/credit union services are $500 over invoice. And as we all know . . . . . $0 over invoice is what most cars go for. (unless it is a true specialty car like a ferrari )
You have given sound advise so far.
With regards to the buying service....it all depends on what you are buying. Buying services on luxury cars (costco, UBS etc) still don't get you as much off as if you were just haggling yourself. Plus there are plenty of Luxury vehicles that still make $1000's over invoice because of supply vs demand. Not all car manufacturers are in a bad situation like GM, Ford etc etc..
If a dealership is not giving finance incentives ie low rates or even 0% then the next best source is a credit union.
Leases can be good through some manufacturers depending on residuals and money factors.
Leases can be good through some manufacturers depending on residuals and money factors.
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama
Because it's considered a single transaction, you pay tax on the difference between the cars, .
And in fact, on USED car transactions, almost all states actually determine the tax from a price lists/database, and not the actual transaction amount.
Everybody lied about how much they paid, so the states got smart.
bill
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama
2. You go into a dealer, trade the car in for $15K (1.5 gran less then if you sold it) and buy the same new car from the dealer for $17K. Because it's considered a single transaction, you pay tax on the difference between the cars, difference being $2000. So, 5% of that is $100. So, the new car cost you $17,100 after taxes.
Example . . ; buy a cell phone for $0 with a 1 year contract, you still have to pay the FULL tax amount on it.
But I like the way you think. Looking at the scenario from different angles will save you money
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama
I'd like to make one comment on the statement made previously that you will always end up doing better by selling a car outright. When you consider just the price of the car alone, that is most likely true. HOWEVER, most of us sell a car in order to buy another car and we pay sales tax when we buy cars. I think the rules change slightly in this scenario. Ok, so let's consider this scenario first:
1. You sell a car outright, let's say a $16.5K car and then you buy another for $17K. When you register that new car, you pay sales tax of the entire amount of the car you just purchased. In MA, that's 5% which is $850. Sucks but you don't have a choice about it. So, that new car cost you $17,850 after taxes.
2. You go into a dealer, trade the car in for $15K (1.5 gran less then if you sold it) and buy the same new car from the dealer for $17K. Because it's considered a single transaction, you pay tax on the difference between the cars, difference being $2000. So, 5% of that is $100. So, the new car cost you $17,100 after taxes.
As you can see, in scenario 2, you actually pay less money for the same car. ...
1. You sell a car outright, let's say a $16.5K car and then you buy another for $17K. When you register that new car, you pay sales tax of the entire amount of the car you just purchased. In MA, that's 5% which is $850. Sucks but you don't have a choice about it. So, that new car cost you $17,850 after taxes.
2. You go into a dealer, trade the car in for $15K (1.5 gran less then if you sold it) and buy the same new car from the dealer for $17K. Because it's considered a single transaction, you pay tax on the difference between the cars, difference being $2000. So, 5% of that is $100. So, the new car cost you $17,100 after taxes.
As you can see, in scenario 2, you actually pay less money for the same car. ...
To finish up your math; in scenario 2 your net is $750 less when compared to scenario 1. In addition, the higher state taxes paid in scenario 1 allow for a higher deduction in Federal taxes.
Trading-in will cost more, but it is obviously close enough for many people so that the difference is not worth the effort to sell privately.
Originally Posted by Day-Day
Works this way in Tennessee as well.
To finish up your math; in scenario 2 your net is $750 less when compared to scenario 1. In addition, the higher state taxes paid in scenario 1 allow for a higher deduction in Federal taxes.
Trading-in will cost more, but it is obviously close enough for many people so that the difference is not worth the effort to sell privately.
To finish up your math; in scenario 2 your net is $750 less when compared to scenario 1. In addition, the higher state taxes paid in scenario 1 allow for a higher deduction in Federal taxes.
Trading-in will cost more, but it is obviously close enough for many people so that the difference is not worth the effort to sell privately.
To follwo up on what bailey_bill said, yes, you are correct. You can't but a used $50K car for $1 and pay 5c of tax in MA either. The state will charge you tax based on what the perceived value of that car is, not what you paid. I should have been more clear on that in my description. This is also how excise tax is imposed in MA as well. But, even in that case, if you consider scenario #2 where you bought the car for $17K and the state said it's worth $18K. You end up paying $50 extra in tax which still yields a $700 difference. Looks like not all states operate this way so every buyer/seller has to do their homework and understand their local tax rules before diving in.
Lots of good info in this thread. Keep up the good work guys
ive never had an experience with carmax before. my question is: is it possible to haggle at carmax since they advertise "easy, no haggle pricing"? might sound like a stupid question but i gotta know for sure =D =P
Originally Posted by zeekle
at carmax the price you see is the price you get
Originally Posted by zeekle
at carmax the price you see is the price you get
Thats just a great marketing ploy. Gives people a false sense of security that they are getting a great deal when in reality you are paying KBB retail in most cases which isn't always the correct market value for the vehicle.
Originally Posted by Black Duck
Thats just a great marketing ploy. Gives people a false sense of security that they are getting a great deal when in reality you are paying KBB retail in most cases which isn't always the correct market value for the vehicle. 
At least around where I am at, a lot of places want to get a premium price out of used 350Zs and there is a crappy selection of used ones. Least at carmax you have a nationwide inventory to look at.
Carmax is not a great price but its a fair price IMHO.
Originally Posted by rglbegl
And whatever you do . . . DO NOT SAY THE WORDS OUT THE DOOR to them. Let them play their little games. If you already have your own financing . . . let them play the payment game. then they think they are making back end money, therefore will lower the price of the car. Focus on price, make them lower the price. DO NOT GIVE THEM A TRADE IN!!!! Once the price looks good . . . write a check.
I'm looking at buying a 2007 Z later this year, probably in Sept/Oct. I dont want to pay $100 over cost.
I went to the dealership last week just to look at them with my girl, and started talking with the salemen. We got into prices, and he said they dont go under what it says on the sticker, cause they dont have trouble selling the Z, and they sell more then the s2k, and this car and that car combinded, blah blah, ect
I was looking at the enthuasist trim, which the MSRP is 29.6. It was marked down like 600-700 off there MSRP price, which included the destination charge, and the added options. It was 29,995. He said they wouldnt go under that. I checked the invoice on edmunds with those exact options and the destination charge, and it came out to about 28300. So its about 1700 over invoice, and hes telling me he cant go under that??? Is it ture they dont go anywhere near cost when a car sells as much as the Z does?
Also he told me they cant remove any of those options that are on there that I dont want, to lower the price. Is this ture? There was some 445 dollars worth of options, and I would only want about 60 dollars worth.(floor mats)
Whats the best way to walk onto the lot and get a price closest to invoice as possible? What steps should I follow? About the financing, I dont mention to them anything about me already being pre approved for financing already do I? I'm just supposed to wait and see what rate they offer me, and then compare?
I went to the dealership last week just to look at them with my girl, and started talking with the salemen. We got into prices, and he said they dont go under what it says on the sticker, cause they dont have trouble selling the Z, and they sell more then the s2k, and this car and that car combinded, blah blah, ect
I was looking at the enthuasist trim, which the MSRP is 29.6. It was marked down like 600-700 off there MSRP price, which included the destination charge, and the added options. It was 29,995. He said they wouldnt go under that. I checked the invoice on edmunds with those exact options and the destination charge, and it came out to about 28300. So its about 1700 over invoice, and hes telling me he cant go under that??? Is it ture they dont go anywhere near cost when a car sells as much as the Z does?
Also he told me they cant remove any of those options that are on there that I dont want, to lower the price. Is this ture? There was some 445 dollars worth of options, and I would only want about 60 dollars worth.(floor mats)
Whats the best way to walk onto the lot and get a price closest to invoice as possible? What steps should I follow? About the financing, I dont mention to them anything about me already being pre approved for financing already do I? I'm just supposed to wait and see what rate they offer me, and then compare?
Last edited by ssnake86; May 9, 2007 at 12:15 AM.
Originally Posted by ssnake86
Whats the best way to walk onto the lot and get a price closest to invoice as possible? What steps should I follow? ?
1) Search dealer inventrories online. Almost all dealerships have inventory on line.
2) Email the internet sales manager and make an offer.
I've been buying new cars this way for years. I will not go to a dealership until I'm ready to go pick up the car.
I bought my '06 Z this way about a year ago. I paid $300 below invoice. And I didn't even go pick it up, they delivered it to my house.
bill
Originally Posted by kaizenro1
Never ever give them a trade in? Please explain. I have no buyers for my car.
Trade you car in ONLY if you have to. It is one of the easiest ways to get screwed. Be careful
Originally Posted by ssnake86
. . . . . edmunds . . . . 445 dollars worth of options, . . . .
Whats the best way to walk onto the lot and get a price closest to invoice as possible? What steps should I follow? About the financing, I dont mention to them anything about me already being pre approved for financing already do I? I'm just supposed to wait and see what rate they offer me, and then compare?
Whats the best way to walk onto the lot and get a price closest to invoice as possible? What steps should I follow? About the financing, I dont mention to them anything about me already being pre approved for financing already do I? I'm just supposed to wait and see what rate they offer me, and then compare?
options . . .the dealer can say they are there for good and can not be removed.
And get your own financing first!!!!! IF the dealer can beat what you got yourself . . .them let them have the financing part.
To get a good deal . . . tell them $500 over invoice and not a penny more. You can get a better deal, but ANY dealer will do it for 500 over. So once you find the EXACT model you want . . . make the offer
Originally Posted by rglbegl
Use the trade in as a tool. Let them lowball you, then pull it at the last minute. If they think they are getting your car at a discount, they will discount the new car.
Trade you car in ONLY if you have to. It is one of the easiest ways to get screwed. Be careful
Trade you car in ONLY if you have to. It is one of the easiest ways to get screwed. Be careful
I went to another dealer and they thought I was on crack saying $28k OTD for a leftover '06 ENTH. But I told them from the first minute I intended on trading in and they only wanted to give me $2000 for it (KBB Fair for $3400 dealer trade in).
So I won't say shiz if they ask me about a trade in the beginning but they still might lowball me on it so they can make up on the loss of selling me a leftover '06 so low. Right?


