Is $28,000 OTD for a base 2007 Z w/ no options a good price?
#21
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I don't know what credit rating has to do w/ the price of the car. It has to do w/ the total money you pay at the end of the loan when it's all said and done. But not the price tag. Not sure how you guys negotiate. But I have never negotiated w/ a dealership w/ my credit rating, trade-ins and financing options on the table.
I usually go to a dealership w/ a loan pre-approved from my bank. I don't talk about my trade-in, I dont talk about loans. I also don't buy a car based on monthly payments. I negotiate just the price of the car. When that's done, I bring up the trade-in, and maybe let them run my credit and see if they can beat the APR from my bank.
Seems to work for me. Anyone else do it this way too?
I usually go to a dealership w/ a loan pre-approved from my bank. I don't talk about my trade-in, I dont talk about loans. I also don't buy a car based on monthly payments. I negotiate just the price of the car. When that's done, I bring up the trade-in, and maybe let them run my credit and see if they can beat the APR from my bank.
Seems to work for me. Anyone else do it this way too?
Last edited by bonusfrag; 04-25-2007 at 06:54 AM.
#22
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Originally Posted by bonusfrag
I don't know what credit rating has to do w/ the price of the car. It has to do w/ the total money you pay at the end of the loan when it's all said and done. But not the price tag. Not sure how you guys negotiate. But I have never negotiated w/ a dealership w/ my credit rating, trade-ins and financing options on the table.
I usually go to a dealership w/ a loan pre-approved from my bank. I don't talk about my trade-in, I dont talk about loans. I also don't buy a car based on monthly payments. I negotiate just the price of the car. When that's done, I bring up the trade-in, and maybe let them run my credit and see if they can beat the APR from my bank.
Seems to work for me. Anyone else do it this way too?
I usually go to a dealership w/ a loan pre-approved from my bank. I don't talk about my trade-in, I dont talk about loans. I also don't buy a car based on monthly payments. I negotiate just the price of the car. When that's done, I bring up the trade-in, and maybe let them run my credit and see if they can beat the APR from my bank.
Seems to work for me. Anyone else do it this way too?
Originally Posted by Un-Kut
after all fees/taxes being $28,000
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Originally Posted by bonusfrag
I don't know what credit rating has to do w/ the price of the car. It has to do w/ the total money you pay at the end of the loan when it's all said and done. But not the price tag. Not sure how you guys negotiate. But I have never negotiated w/ a dealership w/ my credit rating, trade-ins and financing options on the table.
I usually go to a dealership w/ a loan pre-approved from my bank. I don't talk about my trade-in, I dont talk about loans. I also don't buy a car based on monthly payments. I negotiate just the price of the car. When that's done, I bring up the trade-in, and maybe let them run my credit and see if they can beat the APR from my bank.
Seems to work for me. Anyone else do it this way too?
I usually go to a dealership w/ a loan pre-approved from my bank. I don't talk about my trade-in, I dont talk about loans. I also don't buy a car based on monthly payments. I negotiate just the price of the car. When that's done, I bring up the trade-in, and maybe let them run my credit and see if they can beat the APR from my bank.
Seems to work for me. Anyone else do it this way too?
1. Invoice - Selling Price
2. Trade
3. Financing
4. Warranty & Gap Insurance
So if you eliminate the financing by saying you have your own financing and just negotiate the price of the car it will be better. But if you have a trade, then tell them that they will just give you ACV=actual cash value for your trade. Basically they will discount the price of the car and put that discount on your trade so my advice would be get your own financing from a bank or credit union then have kbb prices for your trade just so you have an idea, then I would go to Edmunds to see what the invoice price is on the vehicle you want to purchase. Hope this helps.....
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Originally Posted by Phantom Menace
OP wrote, "ALL FEES"...now isn't APR, a FEE?
You don't pay an "APR" at the time of the purchase. You pay interest during the term of your loan. And no, dealerships don't give you the "total" price including loan interest at time of purchase. The price tag of $28k is the car, tax, tag, registration, delivery...blah blah blah, before the loan.
Originally Posted by imjdoggie
Great method man!!!
Last edited by bonusfrag; 04-25-2007 at 09:41 AM.
#28
you're in cerritos... so im assuming tax rate is 8.25...
it's a good price if you're paying all upfront (which is unlikely i'm guessing). if we assume again that all the bs crap charges that the dealers throw on (destination, licensing, etc) are about 500 bucks, then you're getting the car in the $25k-ish range. that's not too shabby.
now... if you're financing through them, then it's a different story.
it's a good price if you're paying all upfront (which is unlikely i'm guessing). if we assume again that all the bs crap charges that the dealers throw on (destination, licensing, etc) are about 500 bucks, then you're getting the car in the $25k-ish range. that's not too shabby.
now... if you're financing through them, then it's a different story.
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Originally Posted by 6894kevin
I payed 28 and change for mine OTD Tax/Tag/Title EVERYTHING!!
2007 SMB Enth
If you are paying that for a base your are getting taken for a ride.
Cheers
Kevin
2007 SMB Enth
If you are paying that for a base your are getting taken for a ride.
Cheers
Kevin
As mentioned by others, out-the-door cost does not always give a good indication of how much was "paid to the dealer" for the car. The price on the car before taxes and government fees is a better inidication when determining what is a "good price". This price would include "document fees", "processing fees", or any other "fees" that go directly to the dealership.
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Originally Posted by Day-Day
How much did you pay in sales tax? This looks like it can vary a huge amount from state to state.
As mentioned by others, out-the-door cost does not always give a good indication of how much was "paid to the dealer" for the car. The price on the car before taxes and government fees is a better inidication when determining what is a "good price". This price would include "document fees", "processing fees", or any other "fees" that go directly to the dealership.
As mentioned by others, out-the-door cost does not always give a good indication of how much was "paid to the dealer" for the car. The price on the car before taxes and government fees is a better inidication when determining what is a "good price". This price would include "document fees", "processing fees", or any other "fees" that go directly to the dealership.
Tax wasn't a whole lot, but i forgot that states do vary a good bit, but they quoted him 29,500. I also ordered mine and put down a deposit that was incorporated in to the final price, that's where the change came in. I still think 29500 is way to much for a base with no options.
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Originally Posted by 6894kevin
Tax wasn't a whole lot, but i forgot that states do vary a good bit, but they quoted him 29,500. I also ordered mine and put down a deposit that was incorporated in to the final price, that's where the change came in. I still think 29500 is way to much for a base with no options.
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Originally Posted by Day-Day
The OP stated $28,000 otd which may not be too bad depending on the sales tax involved. As Zeekle pointed out, the invoice should be around $26,720.
I was just a little over 28 for my Enthu, so if the base is only 1280 difference then go get the enthu, and as for fees, that is a load of BS only fee that is a must is shipping of transfer something or other. I wouldn't pay for processing or document fees that is a waste of money.
BTW I also ordered mine with no options and bought most of the dealer options for less then half the price in the aftermarket and saved probably a couple of hundred bucks. I know, I know i am cheep.
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Originally Posted by 6894kevin
26720 for the Base or the Enthu?? If that's a Base then i would say it's still a little high at 28000.
I was just a little over 28 for my Enthu, so if the base is only 1280 difference then go get the enthu, and as for fees, that is a load of BS only fee that is a must is shipping of transfer something or other. I wouldn't pay for processing or document fees that is a waste of money.
BTW I also ordered mine with no options and bought most of the dealer options for less then half the price in the aftermarket and saved probably a couple of hundred bucks. I know, I know i am cheep.
I was just a little over 28 for my Enthu, so if the base is only 1280 difference then go get the enthu, and as for fees, that is a load of BS only fee that is a must is shipping of transfer something or other. I wouldn't pay for processing or document fees that is a waste of money.
BTW I also ordered mine with no options and bought most of the dealer options for less then half the price in the aftermarket and saved probably a couple of hundred bucks. I know, I know i am cheep.
#35
Originally Posted by zeekle
according to edmunds, the invoice(inc destination) of a stock base with no options is 26720. Enth with no options (and I mean none) is 28,050. Personally I would save a month or two more and upgrade.
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I am not sure how some of you guys (especially in CA) are arriving at $25K-27K out the door for a base model Z. As stated above, invoice on a stock base is supposed to be 26720. The original poster is in Cerritos, CA which has a tax rate of 7.75% if I recall correctly. (It may be 8.25%)
His tax ALONE works out to be $2070
26720 + $2070 = $28,720 and this does not include any destination, licensing fees, etc.
Assuming a tax rate of 7.75% if you paid $27K out the door for a car, you would be paying less than $25K for the car itself, almost $2000 under invoice!
(Great deal if you got it!!)
Maybe my math sucks, I don't know. I think $28K OTD deal the original poster listed is not bad at all.
His tax ALONE works out to be $2070
26720 + $2070 = $28,720 and this does not include any destination, licensing fees, etc.
Assuming a tax rate of 7.75% if you paid $27K out the door for a car, you would be paying less than $25K for the car itself, almost $2000 under invoice!
(Great deal if you got it!!)
Maybe my math sucks, I don't know. I think $28K OTD deal the original poster listed is not bad at all.
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Originally Posted by 6894kevin
...
I was just a little over 28 for my Enthu, so if the base is only 1280 difference then go get the enthu, and as for fees, that is a load of BS only fee that is a must is shipping of transfer something or other. I wouldn't pay for processing or document fees that is a waste of money.
...
I was just a little over 28 for my Enthu, so if the base is only 1280 difference then go get the enthu, and as for fees, that is a load of BS only fee that is a must is shipping of transfer something or other. I wouldn't pay for processing or document fees that is a waste of money.
...
As for the fees, some people say they paid a certain amount for a car and then don't take into account any fees added on by the dealership when the final purchase is made. If someone wants to compare "apples to apples" and wants to know whether the offer is a "good price" AND they are paying these fees, the fees need to be included as part of the apple. For example, someone paying $500 under invoice-before taxes and gov't fees, but also paying a $350 "document fee" is actually paying $150 under invoice.
It seems pretty common around where I live for the dealerships to have a pre-printed amount on the purchase form and they don't like to mention it until all the final costs are added up. I've purchased a car knowing about this fee and discussing it with the salesman and took it into account when coming up with a final price. I've also purchased cars in which this fee was never discussed, so it was removed by the Finance Manager; he actually left the fee on the form but lowered the agreed-to-price by the amount of the fee so that I still paid what was originally agreed to.
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Originally Posted by Equinox
I am not sure how some of you guys (especially in CA) are arriving at $25K-27K out the door for a base model Z. As stated above, invoice on a stock base is supposed to be 26720. The original poster is in Cerritos, CA which has a tax rate of 7.75% if I recall correctly. (It may be 8.25%)
His tax ALONE works out to be $2070
26720 + $2070 = $28,720 and this does not include any destination, licensing fees, etc.
Assuming a tax rate of 7.75% if you paid $27K out the door for a car, you would be paying less than $25K for the car itself, almost $2000 under invoice!
(Great deal if you got it!!)
Maybe my math sucks, I don't know. I think $28K OTD deal the original poster listed is not bad at all.
His tax ALONE works out to be $2070
26720 + $2070 = $28,720 and this does not include any destination, licensing fees, etc.
Assuming a tax rate of 7.75% if you paid $27K out the door for a car, you would be paying less than $25K for the car itself, almost $2000 under invoice!
(Great deal if you got it!!)
Maybe my math sucks, I don't know. I think $28K OTD deal the original poster listed is not bad at all.
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If you can get the car for cheaper than approx 2% back of invoice, you're getting it around the dealer's cost and that's a good deal imo. Assuming you don't get burned on a trade or finance rate of course....
I paid $26500 +TTL for my 07 base model Z with splash guards, floor mats, cargo convenience pkg, etc... It also had dealer installed tint and a few other little things that weren't listed on their invoice (not my fault ) so I feel I got a pretty good deal, all things considered.
I'm sure if I would have haggled at a few other Nissan dealers, being that I work for a large chain of dealers, I could have got a little more off the price, but it wasn't worth all that time and hassle for maybe a couple hundred dollars.
I paid $26500 +TTL for my 07 base model Z with splash guards, floor mats, cargo convenience pkg, etc... It also had dealer installed tint and a few other little things that weren't listed on their invoice (not my fault ) so I feel I got a pretty good deal, all things considered.
I'm sure if I would have haggled at a few other Nissan dealers, being that I work for a large chain of dealers, I could have got a little more off the price, but it wasn't worth all that time and hassle for maybe a couple hundred dollars.