Pros and Cons of using a 28" tall Tire
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Im in the market for some new bia ply et streets and the wheel I am using is a 1993 RX-7 wheel. The only options I have are a 26x10.5-16 which actually has a smaller diameter than stock or a 28X11.50-16 which has a diameter a little over an inch taller.
I would like to go with the taller tire because at 550 RWHP the gears go by too damn fast. I am still on the 3.5 FD as well
Anyone have experience using a 28 in tall tire and what are any potential drawbacks besides the obvious loss of power
I would like to go with the taller tire because at 550 RWHP the gears go by too damn fast. I am still on the 3.5 FD as well
Anyone have experience using a 28 in tall tire and what are any potential drawbacks besides the obvious loss of power
You get a lot of gearing help. You are right on the edge at 550rwhp but they will help you. Won't have to shift into 5th or even worry about being at the rev limiter in 4th.
I know SP is running a 28in tall slick (1.4 60') but they rev to almost 9K rpm too.
I think the sidewall height of the 28in tall tire also helps put less shock on the drivetrain (but that is a guess)
tom
I know SP is running a 28in tall slick (1.4 60') but they rev to almost 9K rpm too.
I think the sidewall height of the 28in tall tire also helps put less shock on the drivetrain (but that is a guess)
tom
If your running a bias ply front do the 28" rear. If your still running radials up front dont even try the 28" the float will be horrible. Why not run a 27" tire as a compromise? I tried that setup last season but it wouldnt work for my situation.
I run a 26" tire but can rev to over 8000rpm's, also with a 3.3FD = 140mph+ in 4th
I run a 26" tire but can rev to over 8000rpm's, also with a 3.3FD = 140mph+ in 4th
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If your running a bias ply front do the 28" rear. If your still running radials up front dont even try the 28" the float will be horrible. Why not run a 27" tire as a compromise? I tried that setup last season but it wouldnt work for my situation.
I run a 26" tire but can rev to over 8000rpm's, also with a 3.3FD = 140mph+ in 4th
I run a 26" tire but can rev to over 8000rpm's, also with a 3.3FD = 140mph+ in 4th
I rev to 7200, but im pretty sure i can go higher because i have a built head. the car just doesnt make any power up there though.
I would run the 27" but they discontinued the 27x10.5-16 and I have to run a 16 because of my brembos
i could run a bia ply up front but they only make one size that would fit and its a 17 x 2.5 or something and being on a tire that skinny kind of scares me
7200rpm, 3.5FD, 28in tire 4th gear is 134.8mph......thats plenty of mph to put you in the 10's.
tom
tom
I rev to 7200, but im pretty sure i can go higher because i have a built head. the car just doesnt make any power up there though.
I would run the 27" but they discontinued the 27x10.5-16 and I have to run a 16 because of my brembos
i could run a bia ply up front but they only make one size that would fit and its a 17 x 2.5 or something and being on a tire that skinny kind of scares me
I would run the 27" but they discontinued the 27x10.5-16 and I have to run a 16 because of my brembos
i could run a bia ply up front but they only make one size that would fit and its a 17 x 2.5 or something and being on a tire that skinny kind of scares me
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yea, think we'll do cams on mine later in the season....no point reving too much higher than stock redline with stock cams...power and tq are dying above 6200rpm......i'll be bumping it up a touch though just to run through the traps in 4th (and not be on the rev limiter) before we change the cams.....FYI I did the 3.3FD swap this weekend, helps a little so far but roads are too cold to hold much of any power yet.
tom
tom
If your running a bias ply front do the 28" rear. If your still running radials up front dont even try the 28" the float will be horrible. Why not run a 27" tire as a compromise? I tried that setup last season but it wouldnt work for my situation.
I run a 26" tire but can rev to over 8000rpm's, also with a 3.3FD = 140mph+ in 4th
I run a 26" tire but can rev to over 8000rpm's, also with a 3.3FD = 140mph+ in 4th
I rev to 7200, but im pretty sure i can go higher because i have a built head. the car just doesnt make any power up there though.
I would run the 27" but they discontinued the 27x10.5-16 and I have to run a 16 because of my brembos
i could run a bia ply up front but they only make one size that would fit and its a 17 x 2.5 or something and being on a tire that skinny kind of scares me
I would run the 27" but they discontinued the 27x10.5-16 and I have to run a 16 because of my brembos
i could run a bia ply up front but they only make one size that would fit and its a 17 x 2.5 or something and being on a tire that skinny kind of scares me
Use 2 factory donuts on skinnys that's what I will be doing. If you run a tall sidewall (bias play) rear and street radial front you will do this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
Last edited by Alberto; Feb 11, 2009 at 08:48 AM.
Use 2 factory donuts on skinnys that's what I will be doing. If you run a tall sidewall (bias play) rear and street radial front you will do this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe8bBfMi6uw
It's having a bias ply tire at one end and a non-bias ply tire at the other. One can run the MT ET Street Radial, like the OP is going to do, with radial front tires, deal with the walk, or run a non-radial rear (MT ET Street) with a non-radial "skinny" front.
28's (275/60/15) M/T et street Radials rear
26/6/15 M/T Sportsman S/R Radial front
I rev to 7000, had 26's and was still hitting the rev limiter in 4th
So, went to the 28's
Pro's: Hooks much better, and cut .30 off my 1/8 mile, and .16 off 1/4 mile
con's: did not pull as hard in 4th gear, lost 1 mph on 1/4
This is with about 430-450whp max
26/6/15 M/T Sportsman S/R Radial front
I rev to 7000, had 26's and was still hitting the rev limiter in 4th
So, went to the 28's
Pro's: Hooks much better, and cut .30 off my 1/8 mile, and .16 off 1/4 mile
con's: did not pull as hard in 4th gear, lost 1 mph on 1/4
This is with about 430-450whp max
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I think u mean run a ET Street Bias Ply in the rear and deal with the walk, which i was doing all last year. Its kind of like driving an old floaty Buick at 125 mph
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28's (275/60/15) M/T et street Radials rear
26/6/15 M/T Sportsman S/R Radial front
I rev to 7000, had 26's and was still hitting the rev limiter in 4th
So, went to the 28's
Pro's: Hooks much better, and cut .30 off my 1/8 mile, and .16 off 1/4 mile
con's: did not pull as hard in 4th gear, lost 1 mph on 1/4
This is with about 430-450whp max
26/6/15 M/T Sportsman S/R Radial front
I rev to 7000, had 26's and was still hitting the rev limiter in 4th
So, went to the 28's
Pro's: Hooks much better, and cut .30 off my 1/8 mile, and .16 off 1/4 mile
con's: did not pull as hard in 4th gear, lost 1 mph on 1/4
This is with about 430-450whp max
What was your 60' with the 28s
1.76 60 ft, but only have 13 runs on the car total, only 2 runs with the 28's
I come out of the hole @ 4200rpm, not 7000 like Alberto
11.85@116.75 on 28's
12.01@118.00 on 26's and on rev limiter
I come out of the hole @ 4200rpm, not 7000 like Alberto
11.85@116.75 on 28's
12.01@118.00 on 26's and on rev limiter
I actually think FI Z's like taller gearing/taller tire. Oldman's times prove that. Going to a 3.3FD feels slower because your not shifting as often, but it keeps the car in the powerband longer. I counteract the 3.3FD with my 26" tire some, but my rev limit more than makes up for it
When running a bias ply rear/radial front, the front will act like ski's on your car. The steering will become hypersensitive, because as you make steering corrections or adjustments, the front will react quick (radial), and the rear will always be 2 steps behind catching up (bias ply) you end up with a butthole puckering ride. Notice my 1-2 shift sends me waayyyyy sideways and you can see I have to let off to let the car settle down. Scary and fun at the same time. I ran my 11.1 drifting to the left lane at the top end, I crossed a ****s hair from the middle line.
I will be running IIRC 17" Track spares with bias play next time I go.

When running a bias ply rear/radial front, the front will act like ski's on your car. The steering will become hypersensitive, because as you make steering corrections or adjustments, the front will react quick (radial), and the rear will always be 2 steps behind catching up (bias ply) you end up with a butthole puckering ride. Notice my 1-2 shift sends me waayyyyy sideways and you can see I have to let off to let the car settle down. Scary and fun at the same time. I ran my 11.1 drifting to the left lane at the top end, I crossed a ****s hair from the middle line.
I will be running IIRC 17" Track spares with bias play next time I go.
Oldman are you SC or turbo? For some reason I remember you being Vortec (not you really throwing a wrench into the guys going to 4.0x gears lol)
definately showing the positives of 28in tires at the strip.
tom
definately showing the positives of 28in tires at the strip.
tom
I actually think FI Z's like taller gearing/taller tire. Oldman's times prove that. Going to a 3.3FD feels slower because your not shifting as often, but it keeps the car in the powerband longer. I counteract the 3.3FD with my 26" tire some, but my rev limit more than makes up for it
When running a bias ply rear/radial front, the front will act like ski's on your car. The steering will become hypersensitive, because as you make steering corrections or adjustments, the front will react quick (radial), and the rear will always be 2 steps behind catching up (bias ply) you end up with a butthole puckering ride. Notice my 1-2 shift sends me waayyyyy sideways and you can see I have to let off to let the car settle down. Scary and fun at the same time. I ran my 11.1 drifting to the left lane at the top end, I crossed a ****s hair from the middle line.
I will be running IIRC 17" Track spares with bias play next time I go.

When running a bias ply rear/radial front, the front will act like ski's on your car. The steering will become hypersensitive, because as you make steering corrections or adjustments, the front will react quick (radial), and the rear will always be 2 steps behind catching up (bias ply) you end up with a butthole puckering ride. Notice my 1-2 shift sends me waayyyyy sideways and you can see I have to let off to let the car settle down. Scary and fun at the same time. I ran my 11.1 drifting to the left lane at the top end, I crossed a ****s hair from the middle line.
I will be running IIRC 17" Track spares with bias play next time I go.







