nevermind, found out the reason 2 locks are required. individual abs for each wheel.

 

I know its a bit of an older thread, but I was curious how it was wired. Mind sharing...if you remember. Thanks.

 

just like any other solenoid. ground 1 side and battery voltage to the other.

so battery > switch> solenoid>ground

jegs sells some nice line lock momentary switches, or you could use your emerg flasher button, or the shift **** with a button, etc

 

Thanks for the parts list, made this super easy to order. I am debating a momentary switch vs. traditional. Was also wondering how much current these will pull once activated since they could also be used as a parking brake...

Str8dum1:

Have you had these for a while? How do they hold up to corrosion (the solenoids)

-George

 

try using a normally closed valve so that they wont drain power when the car is off.

 

for as cheap as they are, they seem to be just fine.

 

Sort of new to line locks but got the concept. Wondering if my auto/manual would benefit from these. Dont want to kill my brakes doing burn outs.

 

Bump this up..

Instead of starting a new thread ill jus jump into this one.

I jus picked up a set of fd wheels n MT et street radials 26 10.5 16 ... There mounted n on the car hopefully ill make it to the track this weekend.

My question is how much would I benefit from line locks as opposed to pulling the tail lamp fuse? I'm leaning obviously towards line locks because thats the true way to do it....
I thought about installing a push button switch in the fused tail lamp line n call it a day, but I've read mixed things about the car going haywire.. Haven't tried this yet but I may this weekend..
If anyone has found a better setup than the OP feel free to share part numbers and where you got yours from...

Let me jus say I searched briefly for these parts using the part numbers listed thru Jeggs and Summit with no luck.. I did find the B&M line locks however....

 

Don't pull the fuse. Just put a switch in line with the brake signal going to the ECU. I tapped mine at the ECU and wired up a switch. So even with the wire open I still have ABS/VDC and brake lights. I usually forget to turn the switch off when leaving the track because it doesn't cause any dash lights. Linelocks are overkill IMO especially for N/A and low boost applications. A burnout does no more harm to your rear pads than a 50mph to 0 stop.

 

Actually put the whole package together a week ago.. Wasn't that bad, about $200...

I like the idea of locking the front wheels n heating up the tires using a momentary switch... I have big feet n braking while mashing the gas n popping the clutch is a little work for me, I figure for a couple of dollars I can do it right...

If anyone needs the part numbers that work from summit racing pm me n ill get it to u....

 

Please send me the part numbersif you get a chance.

 

Why the secret? Just post it.

 

No secret, I jus didn't think there was any real interest in it since no one bumped the thread besides me and the part numbers given didn't really work with jeggs or summit..

Here they are,

2-bnm-46075 launch control
4-aaf-all 48100 9 in. #3 brake hose
4-fra-582203 90 deg. Steel adapter
1-rus-r 41431 male fittings (pair)
1-rus-r 41411 female fittings (pair)

I spent a little more on the Russell fittings... They come sold in pairs despite Wat the web site says...

This all came from summit, and is basically what the OP bought jus with working current part numbers...

 

subd

 

I got Hurst Line locks. Don't go cheap, I went thru 3 sets of the Summit Brand that were Bad!

 

Can you list the parts you used?

 

That's a slick install... I second the request for parts used...

 

Those part numbers I listed a few years back are all good on summit Racing. I didn't use summit Line locks,i used Wat the original poster used B &M