I really appreciate everyone's input. Sorry to give the impression that I'm running a lot of "stop light races"...I don't. I pick and choose worthy opponents. But lately, I've been taking anyone that shows an interest (a neon, a hyundai, whatever) just so i don't think i'm imagining this problem... the acceleration is most definitely non-responsive in the low gears.

After reading a lot of your responses and doing some research on my own, it seems that a worn clutch may be the problem. I do a lot of driving through New York City - heavy stop and go traffic. However, is it likely I've gone through the clutch life after only 29k miles?? I have owned other M/T vehicles (driven over 100k) and never have I had to replace the original clutch.

Anyway, any feedback on things I could try to determine if a worn clutch is the problem? What exactly does a slipping clutch feel like? What kind of costs am I looking at to replace the clutch? If I have to replace the clutch, should I conside using NISMO replacement parts?

By the way, the following link provides a perfect description of my acceleration problem:

http://se7enup.hopto.org/sevens/ffclutch.htm

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions!

 

Any suggestions on how to determine if I have a slipping clutch problem?

 

At low speeds, go into 6th and hit WOT. If the RPMs jump, then there's slippage. That's what I've read. I'll test that someday.

 

A slipping clutch will cause higher rpms than normal at a given speed. Basically the flywheel is spinning but since the clutch is slipping, less power is transferred to the rear wheels. The above test should quickly test for a slipping clutch as long as you hit an area of the TQ curve that will provide enough power to cause the clutch to slip and not stall the engine. You could try 5th gear as well if 6th stalls the car.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried this the other night... driving at a low speed and got it in 6th... the rpms held low around 1k but didn't stall... I guess a slipping clutch isn't the problem or at least not significant enough to cause my problem.

I also tried resetting the ECU... it was the only thing I hadn't tried yet. It seems to have made a difference because the car is a lot more responsive now. I don't understand why this happened. Is it possible I have a malfunctioning sensor of some sort? Does the ECU get reset everytime the car is in for service?? Why would I have to reset the ECU when I've made no modifications to the car (other than replace the OEM filter with a K&N filter)?

 

Mine seems much slower also...but when a Mustang GT or RX8 pulls up next to me and we play around I have beat them both! And my car seems sooo slow to me now....

 

One thing that can happen if you have disconnected the battery or the throttle body harness, is that the throttle body does not reposition itself correctly. This can cause the throttle body to not open properly which can effect performance. From what I have found, it doesn't seem to happen everytime the battery is disconnected, but resetting the ECU and going through the TB repositioning procedure solves this issue. The service manual recommends completing this procedure every time the battery is disconnected or if the TB harness is disconnected.

 

I really do appreciate all the helpful suggestions...

Although resetting the ECU on my car has addressed the acceleration issue I was experiencing, the car seems to still hesitate a little. It is most definitely not as responsive as it use to be. However, resetting the ECU has had a substantial effect. Anyone recommend things I should have checked out in my next service? Is a bad sensor something that can be easily detected in a routine service? I just want to address any potential costly issues before my warranty expires.

Thanks again everyone.

 

A bad sensor or one that is out of spec should trigger the CEL.

Another thing to consider is that it much colder now and that tends to make tires more prone to wheel spin. This, in turn, will make the car feel like it is accelerating much slower. Dunno, just guessing at this point. A dyno would probably prove or disprove your perceptions.

 

I have the exactly same problem with you , will ty later

 

man honestly sounds to me like your throttle body is starting to crap out slowly...I went through tons of threads and clean this change that. Do you mean like there used to be way more pull per rpm than before, like a hallow acceleration feel? What about when you shift to a dif gear, does it pull you into the next gear or kinda just like an auto?

 

yall see this post was from 05 right? what it sounded like was an exhaust leak, slower response, more noise, accelerates better after 4k, atleast IMO

bringing this post back from the grave!

 

Sounds louder than normal? when is the last time you've had an oil change? engines are louder and slower due to the oil, either not being changed, being improper, or not topped off

 

do u have aftermarket tail lights .. if you do REMOVE THEM!

 

WTF??? This thread started almost 4 yrs ago... and some dude revives it responding as if its a day old thread

 

who are you responding to???

 

haha i didnt even realize

 

MAN stfu, who the hell cares if it's old? Many people are having this issue including me and there hasn't been a straight out answer has it? Anyway im having the same "lag" anywhere below 3k rpm, car doesn't have any power from there. I have had the CEL from a bad knock sensor, maybe that is the reason. ill have it changed soon and ill let u guys know.