I just wanted to move this so guys with FI and running a 5AT can learn from my mistakes.

long story but my tranny started to slip real bad a few days ago thought I was just heating up but today found out my tranny is gone. I am guessing its from low end torque my HKS is putting out. think my torque is about 330 right now. Not alot but most of its bottom end. so I had the car towed to the dealer friday today they called said nothing was wrong but after running harder on the car found out its a total lose. So the dealer will not cover it because of my FI so I had a few ways to go about this. One being have the dealer install a new tranny for $5000 then get the car to AAM for a level 10 valve body and torque converter upgrade and add a trans cooler. Or I could just order a used tranny with 5000 miles on it from turbo toys who sells used parts (I ordered my 3:5 rear out of a 6MT from him also) payed $800 shipped for the tranny tonight and will be here by the end of the week. take that tranny to the dealer for install (AAM is 2 hours away so I dont want a tow truck taking my car that far) after I have them install it drive the car to AAM for the upgrades.

Bottom line guys running FI with a 5AT stay off your boost and get your tranny beefed up ASAP or you will have problems very soon. I have about 27k on my car and only say 5k max on FI. MY tranny just got to hot I am guessing

So my plan is have the dealer install the tranny get the car to AAM for upgrades TC and VB from level10 have them install a trans cooler and my 3:5 final drive

 

crap..that mean more money? humm...

 

Thanks for the heads-up. The HKS blower was actually the upgrade I was seriously concidering (or the APS TT). Just like yourself, I have a AT. Please post your updates on the progress once the Level10 hardware is in. I myself am looking at L10 VB & TC and so far all I heard about it was hear-say. Any feedback on personal experience would be greatly appreciated.

 

Dammit...thanks for the heads up. Sorry the tranny gave out on you but your post is appreciated.

 

Hey who did your HKS install?

 

Sorry about that...

But Until now my 5AT is O.K ( I made ran 11.9 , boost + Nitrous)

Yes I get all the upgrades (Stillen Valve , Raceedge T.C , Trans Cooler , Trans oil Tem. Gauge)

 

My friend, you car seems just about where I am hoping mine will be in a year or so... Anyway, if you do not mind me asking, how long since you have started making all this power and how aggresively are you beating on your car? BTW, can you post some pictures of where did you place all those gauges, b/c this is the dilema I have been having. Thank you very much.

 

I have had FI for about 6 months now give or take a month. I do drive the car hard from time to time. gauges are on a piller and my A/F knock amp is in my nav cubby

 

PumpedVA, so in all 6 month the blower did not give you any trouble... That is reassuring b/c I have been recieving some mixed reviews about it. How loud is the car with it in? Does it run much hotter, I noticed that you kept you stock radiator. And (this is a dumb question) but what made you chose the SC over a turbo? I am trying to decide between APS TT and HKS SC?

 

I went SC over TT because I just didnt want to deal with the chance of a blown motor. also for everyday street I just felt the sC was better. But then again as much $$ as I have put into this car to get were I am at I could have just went Tt but a forged internals and would have been about the same. the blower is still working perfect I just have a oil leak around a fitting but other than that I have had 0 problems with my HKS I lost some boost but that was because I didnt do a follow up visit after 500 miles and have things checked over. I will add a link that might help out. and car never runs hot stay right were it did before the SC . If you are looking for max HP TT is the way to go. If you are looking to just add a safe 100hp I would say SC

 

Are there any TT guys running a AT5 ? I think there is and I dont think they are having problems . Only mods they would have done would be a trq. converter and a valve body . Ive talked to Edge racing converters . He said if your engine isnt running hot , you shouldnt need a tranny cooler

 

"shouldnt" ? better safe than sorry

 

Booger's not wrong, but I tend to side with PumpedVA. If you're going to sink a few thousand dollars into F/I, what's a couple hundred more for a tranny cooler? It's cheaper than servicing an injured tranny, and you can have a tranny cooler installed just about anywhere...

 

There is pretty decent explanation about the workings of an A/T on this website (I personally almost got a seizure trying to comprehend all of this...)

http://www.familycar.com/transmission.htm

When forcing the poor tranny to hold more then twice the power it was originally designed for, which do you this would wear out and should be upraded and which do you this are fine? Good luck.

 

thanks I will have to sit down and read that.

Car will be at AAM today.

 

If you need a tranny cooler or just want one for extra safety . Edge suggested geetting one that only opens at a set temp .Im not for sure why ...some thing on the lines of..to cool of fluid hurts performance...or not good for the tranny at all . Running around in the winter with a open tranny cooler ...I dont think you want to do

 

Correct Boog. Same with an oil(engine) cooler.It messes with oil pressure.

 

Ach, so... Good information!

 

THX! for the heads up. Sorry about your the tranny, your post is appreciated. Members if this forum recomend me to do Edge Racing TQ, Stillen Valve body, and the new Stillen Trans oil cooler from there new 2005 catalog.

Cesar
Please visit my website
http://oZoc.org

 

We are running ATI and 5at Has been drag raced alot without any problems yet except that as expected the tranny overuns the rev-limiter if you try to let in shift in auto mode at wot...In trying to adress this issue we sent the valve body out to Level ten as they said it would solve the shifting problem. After getting it back it shifted better but did not relolve the issue...what I've found out now is that to get the tranny to shift in auto the rev-limit needs to be moved up out of the way of the auto shift command by re-flashing the ecu. When the rev-limit is raised on an auto it doesn't raise the rpm at which the shift command comes in at when driven in auto mode.
Anybody else with F/I and Auto experience this..I know everyone says you should run in manual mode but that sucks for racing because of the delay involved you have to anticipate redline by 500 rpm??