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Old 07-07-2006, 08:57 AM
  #21  
Jason@Performance
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+1 on keeping the stock shifter...
Old 07-07-2006, 09:03 AM
  #22  
zeebeda
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Originally Posted by Jason@Performance
+1 on keeping the stock shifter...
+2
I drove a friend's Z that had a B&M Short Shifter. As stated previously-a lot of rattle + hard to get into gear.
Old 07-07-2006, 09:39 AM
  #23  
sentry65
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Originally Posted by Bullitproof
Must be the solid race version. i've had the street version for more than 6 months with no problems.
you mean the rogue shifter?
Old 07-07-2006, 09:47 AM
  #24  
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yes
Old 07-12-2006, 04:52 AM
  #25  
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I've had the B&M for about 8 months now and love it. The shifting is, in my opinion, quicker, more precise and more solid than stock. There's one trick you have to do in installing the B&M. You have to wrap the pivot housing with a couple of tightly stretched layers of electrical tape. You can do this even after the shifter is installed. This takes out every bit of slop (not much to begin with) and eliminates almost all rattle. Then--give yourself a few weeks to get used to the stiffer feel of the shifter. I would never go back to stock now.
Old 07-12-2006, 05:11 AM
  #26  
350Zenophile
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Rogue +1, No rattles here.
Old 07-12-2006, 06:32 AM
  #27  
leemik
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I have the 350EVO shifter, revision 3 (not the Rouge shifter)..

It's fantastic.. I was a little bit apprehensive about the rattling and "race only" tag but it shifts great..every gate feels precise in and out.. shift action is shorter by a lot and it's 100% quiet.. I think with the latest revision, they finally got it right.. too bad they won't be supporting the 350z platform anymore..

--mike
Old 07-12-2006, 07:58 AM
  #28  
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350evo is unlikely to disappear. Wait a month...
Old 07-13-2006, 11:51 AM
  #29  
06Firebase
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Originally Posted by gersteinp
I've had the B&M for about 8 months now and love it. The shifting is, in my opinion, quicker, more precise and more solid than stock. There's one trick you have to do in installing the B&M. You have to wrap the pivot housing with a couple of tightly stretched layers of electrical tape. You can do this even after the shifter is installed. This takes out every bit of slop (not much to begin with) and eliminates almost all rattle. Then--give yourself a few weeks to get used to the stiffer feel of the shifter. I would never go back to stock now.

Thank you, gersteinp.

I have also read that there is a metal plate surrounding the bottom of the shifter assembly that can be ground out to make a bit more room.

Can you show (or provide any links to) any photos, etc. for your electrical tape idea ?

I'm not quite sure how to go about this.

All best,
Joe
Old 07-16-2006, 05:29 PM
  #30  
gersteinp
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Originally Posted by 06Firebase
Thank you, gersteinp.

I have also read that there is a metal plate surrounding the bottom of the shifter assembly that can be ground out to make a bit more room.

Can you show (or provide any links to) any photos, etc. for your electrical tape idea ?

I'm not quite sure how to go about this.

All best,
Joe
Joe-- The mod is very simple. I posted a more detailed description of it a few months ago. I also called B&M to ask them to look into cladding the pivot housing with vinyl. Here's how you do it: before you install the shifter--just wrap a couple of layers of tightly stretched black plastic electrical tape around the upper part of the black aluminum pivot housing. Let the tape overlap the top of the housing a bit to eliminate rattle against the top fixing plate (blue). Everything else goes in normally. You grease the entire pivot housing, tape and all, with the included lithium grease. When installed, the shifter assembly should move freely up and down but should have no slop at all. If it binds after greasing, there's too much tape. I also took the step of sound insulating both boots with any old soft material. Really quiets things down. When installing the shift ****, remove the chamfered spacer first. Be absolutely certain that the shift **** is fully screwed down--usually a full turn more than you'd think. Be sure to stabilize the shifter shaft below it with channel locks so you don't bend the transmission fork. I used a small amount of red locktite on the threads.

If the shifter's already installed, just remove everything on top of the pivot housing and wrap whatever's above the transmission housing when the shifter's pulled up. This is what I did and is totally sufficient. The result is fantastic. No slop, minimal rattle and smooth shifting. It is a terrific shifter, solidly made and way, way better than stock. When you compare the respective pivots, you'll see why. Please ignore all the B&M haters. They just didn't install it the way I did. DO NOT grind anything in the transmission housing or anywhere else. No need to do this.

Good luck.
Old 07-16-2006, 06:46 PM
  #31  
Gary King
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I'm glad to hear you’ve been enjoying your B&M Shifter. Question for you, from your description, it sounds like you put the electrical tape where the B&M supplied Rubber O-Ring would go, did you use the O-Ring with the electrical tape? We run the B&M in our Z and are very happy with it also. We have no rattles but, just did the install as B&M instructions detail. I would love to find out why some people experience the rattle/buzz noise and some do not.

For some pictures and additional info on the B&M shifter check out our website: http://www.gridesinc.com/Showroom.html#bm

Thanks,
Gary


Originally Posted by gersteinp
Joe-- The mod is very simple. I posted a more detailed description of it a few months ago. I also called B&M to ask them to look into cladding the pivot housing with vinyl. Here's how you do it: before you install the shifter--just wrap a couple of layers of tightly stretched black plastic electrical tape around the upper part of the black aluminum pivot housing. Let the tape overlap the top of the housing a bit to eliminate rattle against the top fixing plate (blue). Everything else goes in normally. You grease the entire pivot housing, tape and all, with the included lithium grease. When installed, the shifter assembly should move freely up and down but should have no slop at all. If it binds after greasing, there's too much tape. I also took the step of sound insulating both boots with any old soft material. Really quiets things down. When installing the shift ****, remove the chamfered spacer first. Be absolutely certain that the shift **** is fully screwed down--usually a full turn more than you'd think. Be sure to stabilize the shifter shaft below it with channel locks so you don't bend the transmission fork. I used a small amount of red locktite on the threads.

If the shifter's already installed, just remove everything on top of the pivot housing and wrap whatever's above the transmission housing when the shifter's pulled up. This is what I did and is totally sufficient. The result is fantastic. No slop, minimal rattle and smooth shifting. It is a terrific shifter, solidly made and way, way better than stock. When you compare the respective pivots, you'll see why. Please ignore all the B&M haters. They just didn't install it the way I did. DO NOT grind anything in the transmission housing or anywhere else. No need to do this.

Good luck.
Old 07-16-2006, 09:20 PM
  #32  
gersteinp
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Originally Posted by Gary King
I'm glad to hear you’ve been enjoying your B&M Shifter. Question for you, from your description, it sounds like you put the electrical tape where the B&M supplied Rubber O-Ring would go, did you use the O-Ring with the electrical tape? We run the B&M in our Z and are very happy with it also. We have no rattles but, just did the install as B&M instructions detail. I would love to find out why some people experience the rattle/buzz noise and some do not.

For some pictures and additional info on the B&M shifter check out our website: http://www.gridesinc.com/Showroom.html#bm

Thanks,
Gary
The O-ring and everything else is installed as you normally would. I just had the tape come up around the top corner of the pivot housing but not covering the o-ring (no need to). The rattle comes from the fact that the pivot housing is too small for the metal cup of the transmission housing it sits in. This creates metal-on-metal vibration at certain RPMs. It also allows for a little side-to-side slop that's completely eliminated when you do the electrical tape wrap.
Old 07-16-2006, 09:49 PM
  #33  
Nitrouz
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+1 for the rogue shifter. Tried it in GTNPU_Z's Z and love it. no rattles, short, crisp, precise shifts, and you can actually feel the 6 "gates"...kinda like a ferrari if you will.
Old 07-17-2006, 12:07 AM
  #34  
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Ne one have the mossy other than Miaplaya?
Old 07-21-2006, 12:17 PM
  #35  
TTRANK
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I just ordered a Rogue street shifter so we will see...
Old 09-14-2006, 10:06 AM
  #36  
350talon
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Where can i find the Rogue Shifter?
Old 09-14-2006, 02:30 PM
  #37  
Z1 Performance
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we've found the same thing..the shifters on the market for these cars stink.

I've actually been talking to a buddy who builds these for other cars, and maybe we can finally get something off the ground!
Old 09-17-2006, 09:30 AM
  #38  
QuadCam
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where is there info on the mossy shifter. I tried there website, but it looks like it's down.
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