B&M Short Shifter....
I just ordered the b&m short shifter for my 2005 Z. Does anyone have any info of how to get it installed? Did anyone get it done? how long did it take? is that hard? any help would be appriciated.
strangely, I love mine. shift feels much more confident and secure. although I don't have to push down now for reverse (which isn't really that big of a deal).
but I haven't had any rattling or other issues some other guys have...
but I haven't had any rattling or other issues some other guys have...
Originally Posted by suprpwr
strangely, I love mine. shift feels much more confident and secure. although I don't have to push down now for reverse (which isn't really that big of a deal).
but I haven't had any rattling or other issues some other guys have...
but I haven't had any rattling or other issues some other guys have...
Trending Topics
Yeah i had a B&M on my old cavalier Z24 it was awesome....but i have read NOTHING but bad things about it on the 350Z. So needless to say ill take the 50 or so complaints and not put a short shifter on my Z.
People sometimes overdue things ive seen the Z shifter and yes it short. Sometimes when you go to the extreme as making it even shorter then what it is its bad and instead of benefiting from it you just make it worst IMO
Originally Posted by lilchief
I just ordered the b&m short shifter for my 2005 Z. Does anyone have any info of how to get it installed? Did anyone get it done? how long did it take? is that hard? any help would be appriciated.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Nissan/re_...er_install.pdf
I hope it helps.
Thanks that does help.
Originally Posted by jlvvega
You can try this site on How to. it is for the Rogue short shifter. is the same thing.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Nissan/re_...er_install.pdf
I hope it helps.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/Nissan/re_...er_install.pdf
I hope it helps.
My friend has a short shifter on his car and he did the install himself. It didn't rattle or anything. It didn't feel a big difference. Didn't seem like a bad mod but it didn't think it was great either. I would do this when you have done everything else...
Ruben
Ruben
I had it... after about 8 months of hell I finally swallowed my pride and took it off. The guide plate kept allowing the shifter to sneak past the 5th gear gate under race shifting so I missed 5th ALOT. I grinded it a couple of times because of this and I think it may have precipitated my tranny problems that came later on. I now have a new tranny and I refuse to ever touch my car with a short shifter EVER again.
they always feel like the car doesnt go all the way into gear. i hate them, another way of helping a bit would be to cut off the top of the shifter now and get a **** that goes on with and alan key... i would just leave it stock. this is the nicest shifting stock car i have ever driven.
I guess I'm going to be the lone dissenter. I installed a new B&M short shifter in my G35 coupe a few months ago deciding to ignore all the naysayers. I love the mod and think it's one of the best things I did to my car in addition to a Vortech SC.
Yes, I, too, had the rattle problem but I figured out and mostly fixed the problem. I traced the rattle to three things: 1) Mistakenly transferring the chamfered spacer from the stock shift to the B&M (you should throw this little piece out--no need for it on the new shifter--I missed this in the instructions); 2) Failing to tighten on the shift **** all the way until I realized that I could get an additional 360 degree turn out of it eliminating about 60% of the rattle; 3) Getting rid of almost the rest of the rattle by modding the pivot cup. The first two steps are obvious but the last one took me some time to figure out.
If you see how the B&M fits into the transmission housing cup, you'll notice that the black metal pivot cup of the shifter is too small a diameter for the housing cup. This creates a rattle at certain RPMs and also leads to unnecessary side-to-side slop in the shifter when in gear. I did a simple fix that completely eliminated all the slop and got rid of about 85% of the residual rattling over about 3K RPM under hard throttle. I wrapped the top of the pivot cup with about 2 layers of tightly stretched electrical tape so that the pivot fit fairly tightly in the transmission housing without binding up-and-down. This was so easy to do that I didn't even have to uninstall the shifter--just wrapped the upper 3/4" or so of the pivot. I made sure that the very top of the pivot was also covered because this could rattle on the blue metal spacer that goes above it. I still got some rattle even after this mod but, now that the weather is warmer, the rattle is just about totally gone.
One last thing--follow the Service Bulletin on removing the shifter **** without damaging the linkage. Also, sound insulate both the inner and outer rubber boots--makes a big difference (I used paper towel and a duct tape wrapped shop towel).
The new shifter has a noticeably shorter, firmer, more precise and positive feel--an enormous improvement. It takes 1-2 months to get use to the firmer, notchier feel, but then you won't want to go back the the old, sloppy stock shifter. The key, however, is to wrap the pivot cup with electrical tape.
Adjusting the guide plate is simple but be sure to grease, not only the pivot cup, but the reverse lock-out tang and the top of the ball that fits in the pivot so everything will be butter smooth. The guy who lost his up-and-down lock out forgot to replace the spring that goes underneath the shifter assembly--easy to do if you're not paying attention.
Good luck.
Yes, I, too, had the rattle problem but I figured out and mostly fixed the problem. I traced the rattle to three things: 1) Mistakenly transferring the chamfered spacer from the stock shift to the B&M (you should throw this little piece out--no need for it on the new shifter--I missed this in the instructions); 2) Failing to tighten on the shift **** all the way until I realized that I could get an additional 360 degree turn out of it eliminating about 60% of the rattle; 3) Getting rid of almost the rest of the rattle by modding the pivot cup. The first two steps are obvious but the last one took me some time to figure out.
If you see how the B&M fits into the transmission housing cup, you'll notice that the black metal pivot cup of the shifter is too small a diameter for the housing cup. This creates a rattle at certain RPMs and also leads to unnecessary side-to-side slop in the shifter when in gear. I did a simple fix that completely eliminated all the slop and got rid of about 85% of the residual rattling over about 3K RPM under hard throttle. I wrapped the top of the pivot cup with about 2 layers of tightly stretched electrical tape so that the pivot fit fairly tightly in the transmission housing without binding up-and-down. This was so easy to do that I didn't even have to uninstall the shifter--just wrapped the upper 3/4" or so of the pivot. I made sure that the very top of the pivot was also covered because this could rattle on the blue metal spacer that goes above it. I still got some rattle even after this mod but, now that the weather is warmer, the rattle is just about totally gone.
One last thing--follow the Service Bulletin on removing the shifter **** without damaging the linkage. Also, sound insulate both the inner and outer rubber boots--makes a big difference (I used paper towel and a duct tape wrapped shop towel).
The new shifter has a noticeably shorter, firmer, more precise and positive feel--an enormous improvement. It takes 1-2 months to get use to the firmer, notchier feel, but then you won't want to go back the the old, sloppy stock shifter. The key, however, is to wrap the pivot cup with electrical tape.
Adjusting the guide plate is simple but be sure to grease, not only the pivot cup, but the reverse lock-out tang and the top of the ball that fits in the pivot so everything will be butter smooth. The guy who lost his up-and-down lock out forgot to replace the spring that goes underneath the shifter assembly--easy to do if you're not paying attention.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by HockeyZ39
So what is the best short throw shifter to get? I was thinkin about the rouge, b/c I have seen some good reviews on it. Didnt know about the nismo one, anymore info on it?
The NISMO is actually a rebadged Mossy. It's also quite expensive. Some like the 4 settings but, in my mind, this just adds complication. Do you really want a setting that's actually taller than stock and one that's extremely short (40% shorter)? The B&M is 33% shorter than stock and feels perfect.
The B&M has a unique pivot that is self-lubricating (although I added extra grease) in a solid metal housing. It's much beefier and tighter than the stock pivot. As long as you wrap the outside with a couple of layers of electrical tape so it fits more precisely in the tranny housing, it will completely eliminate all slop from the shifter.


