I have an interesting question to ask you all, since my car is pretty low, I have to do a weird angle maneuver when I get out of my ramp from work daily... Anyways, the car will be in the shop soon getting a ST and build motor… eventually, the max goal is around 500 hp/tq. Any recommendations on the best streetable clutch/flywheel combo that can accommodate these kind of driving conditions. Dont want to deal with alot of slippage.... thanks!

 

JWT clutch + stock flywheel.

 

My shop is recommending the Spec 2+ clutch and resurfacing the stock flywheel....

 

Its not the surface of the stock flywheel you have to worry about, its the damper... once that wears out, the stock flywheel is worthless... get rid of the dual mass flywheel...

Go with a NISMO flywheel if you are really worried about streetablity... Its a single piece solid flywheel...

JWT clutch or ACT SS clutch...

http://mynismo.com/categories/?id=2277

 

Im running the JWT set up but thinkin about staying with the JWT flywheel and trying the Competition Clutch Stage 5 "IRONMAN" Series disc

www.competitionclutch.com

 

There is no problem running something like that... but for this thread, it will NOT be a streetable set up... an unsprung hub and cerametallic clutch disc material... This clutch disc will not allow for the clutch to be slipped / feathered... it will grab once it starts to grab... if you do try to slip it, it will squeek and shutter the car... Worse thing... is if you do slip that clutch disc you will be looking at best 3000-6000 mile life...

 

I love my JWT Flywheel with the 300ZX RPS Max Series clutch. Mine is the sprung 6-puck (very stiff and quite grabby, but definately streetable) claims 700hp. But if you want a little less grabby the non-puck disc should do well too. The pressure plate is just amazing.

 

Actually the cool thing bout this set up is that it comes sprung or unsprung and the thing bout the Irionman is u CAN slip it where as the ceramics u cant --This isnt my first rodeo --I spoke with the designer and gave him the third degree---I was looking for a streetable super grabber and will report any probs I encounter. Also a Company rep is nearby that I will be dealing with. Plus I am told that this set up is easier on the flywheel as in wear than the Ceramic is ------ Time will tell

 

And I agree --I love my JWT !!!!!

 

let us know how it works out then!

With the larger mass of that clutch and the 14lbs flywheel it should be less of an effect then like I had with my 8lbs 7.25" clutch... eh eh ..

 

Anyone know the weight difference between the RPS CynRg flywheel and the JWT unit?

 

RPS 12.5 JWT 14 I believe

 

JWT Flywheel and Clutch took a couple days to get used to, but after that it is fine even in stop and go traffic. And I never really noticed the noise complaints that some people have mentioned moving from the stock set-up. Would recommend it to anybody with a 350.

 

If you are spending the money to build the motor, i would do the ats or exedy twin carbon. these clutches should hold all the power you can throw at it. i'm putting a clutchmasters stage 3 for about a year until i build my motor. once i do that i'll put the ats in, and hopefully that will be the last clutch i buy. better yet, pm sharif and tell him your power goals, he should be able to match you up with a clutch.

 

12.5 lbs for the RPS? damn seems too light

 

Stand corrected ---The 12.5 is for the 300 ZX 18 LBs for the 350

Although there was a flywheel out there that was so light it was scarry ---I forgot its name--Coulple friends had it ---noisy as hell

 

The tilton? it's like 8 pounds and its great for the response but looks like a ***** to live with everyday. Has anyone tried the RPS and compared it to the JWT? The entire clutch and flywheel combonation?

 

What is the disadvantage to going with somthing super lite such as the Tilton as opposed to somthing a little heavier such as the JWT?

 

Depends what u want out of ur car ---With every action there is a reaction. A JWT ( Half the weight of a stock F/W ) will allow u to rev faster, A Tilton which is Half the weight of the JWT, --Faster yet. But each time u go lighter ur revs drop faster when u Disengage the clutch or let up on the gas. U lose Inertia. With the JWT and FI on my car , 1st gear is useless cept to get u rolling cuz u hit Redline instantly. But works out very well for a quick launch. I have reached a happy medium. The Tilton would I believe would be better suited to a N/A Motor.
And what screws people up a little is the fact --the lighter the F/W the higher u have to bring RPMs up before clutch activation. A super light F/W is a pain in traffic ( Tilton ) mainly for a inexperienced driver.